Recent content by fostytou

I'll admit that mine had the same problem and was way too low. I disassembled enough to adjust it, started to strip the phillips, and then decided it was close enough. Knowing now that it is red and not blue I'll find some time to disassemble, hit it with a torch, and adjust it a little better.

Also a fair point that some of the torque values are incorrect in the instructions. For instance the Axle calls for ~140Nm when it should be closer to 100 Nm / 73 ftlb. It'd be good to check over these before beginning your install and maybe good to upgrade the instructions if that's still an...

Old thread, I know. Since I have the Dynojet QuickShifter I was able to use the stock shift rod to replace the Tyga rod. I wanted the controls a little lower anyway, but in the lowest / most forward position when I downshift (GP) and the shift lever heim joint moves back it hits the base of...

That's the vent for the fuel tank they are talking about in the second post. The tank needs to vent to prevent vacuum/pressure.

Zombie post I know. I had already deleted the evap canister and Y'ed the hoses together but found the bracket came loose on my '17. I think the vibration from the bracket actually rubbed about halfway through the hose which was hard to spot at first, but a bit of fuel overflow after the bike...

On mine the hammering was not easy at all and removed a mountain of paint down there (and a tone of sweat from me). Considering it is just 2 things to loosen (and if you have to put the kettle back in it is nearly impossible) and then it is really as simple as moving the piece - I think it is...

I believe loosening them is enough. This is the part that creates the main difficulty point though - so if loosening isn't enough then loosen them further or remove them partially.

FYI there is now a cable on amazon that works for both K-line and CAN. Make sure you read the comments (I've posted one confirming the pinout) to make sure you get the correct one. The item number I ordered is B083JTR84L .

It seems a lot of people run into a problem while removing the stock exhaust on 2017+ bikes - getting the silencer behind the shock out can be very difficult! Getting it back in is all but impossible... unless you know this little trick. I've seen 3 recent facebook posts about it and the only...

Thanks for the tip. I was thinking about doing that but didn't know how bad the bike would complain if I did so / didn't want fuel spraying everywhere if I tried to connect everything and balance the fuel tank somewhere. I did wind up removing one of the jets with the bridge in place and...

This is probably a bad idea - it means you can never clamp the metal on the splines. You need one side to move freely

Yes. 2019 should be the same as 2017. I did mine while I was adding a quick shifter. You will need to trim the cover, and the ideal setup would use a shorter shift rod so that you can get the correct angle (which also makes putting the bolt in easier). Since I was installing a QS sensor I...

The marks should not be there. What appears to be pitting in your 3rd picture would be even more concerning. Realistically cams should not have any wear or scoring. I've seen bikes with 50,000 miles that are as shiny as a mirror. My 2017's exhaust cams look great (which should probably wear...

I'm not sure there's a more appropriate place for it... so if anyone would like to see the decompression device from the cam in movement here ya go:

It appears in my searches I missed this existing thread (a bit dead though) of tips for the valve adjustment. No guide though. https://www.rc390-forum.com/threads/valve-adjustment.373/ There's also an evernote guide for the duke (linked in my hosted document) but I'm not a fan of some of his...