HardRacing

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Do to the " National MONTH LONG Vacation" that Italy and most of Europe takes in Aug/Sept. ..... we are running low on inventory for our Andreani Fork Kits.

So if anyone wants one, only a few left. Until our next shipment arrives.

.

 

Bagwell

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Update ?

I just recv my kit from HR today and can't wait to install...any more tricks or items? I'm about to crack some beers with a suspension guy I know, so I wanna be prepared and make sure he has whats needed in adv


Wow, I dont know how I missed this post. The RaceTech fork tube tool has two bars with tips on them that are supposed to go into holes in fork tube, but the tips are too big for the holes in the fork tube. Its a beautiful tool, but it doesnt work unless you modify the tool to allow it to go into smaller fork tube holes. I ended up using a piece of radiator hose rubber tube split and put over fork tube and a very nice Lisle brand strap wrench while heating fork bottoms with propane torch. I measured and marked how far the fork tubes went into the fork feet so I could get them back in the correct amount bottoming them out. I had to clean all the old loctite off very very well to allow the fork tubes to screw into the fork bottoms fairly easily. I melted it again and wiped quickly with a rag on both the fork tube threads and fork foot threads. I think I also used a wire brush on the tube threads as well. If you leave any residue the fork tube wont screw into the fork foot easily and you wont be bottomed out when you reassemble. I hope this helps others. The upgrade in spring rate and valving is excellent!!!
 

HardRacing

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Wow, I dont know how I missed this post. The RaceTech fork tube tool has two bars with tips on them that are supposed to go into holes in fork tube, but the tips are too big for the holes in the fork tube. Its a beautiful tool, but it doesnt work unless you modify the tool to allow it to go into smaller fork tube holes. I ended up using a piece of radiator hose rubber tube split and put over fork tube and a very nice Lisle brand strap wrench while heating fork bottoms with propane torch. I measured and marked how far the fork tubes went into the fork feet so I could get them back in the correct amount bottoming them out. I had to clean all the old loctite off very very well to allow the fork tubes to screw into the fork bottoms fairly easily. I melted it again and wiped quickly with a rag on both the fork tube threads and fork foot threads. I think I also used a wire brush on the tube threads as well. If you leave any residue the fork tube wont screw into the fork foot easily and you wont be bottomed out when you reassemble. I hope this helps others. The upgrade in spring rate and valving is excellent!!!
.

Thanks for the update and feedback. ;-)

.
 

Aussie Boi

New Member
Hey guys. Could you direct me to full installation instructions for 2016 390 Duke? I am trying to figure out the feasibility of installing myself, thanks!

ps A suspension guy said there was some machining involved?
 

CDN Duke

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Rocket,
You do need to remove the fork bottoms.

While it's a different bike.. check out this video to see how to go about removing Fork Bottoms.

Scroll forward to about 6:20


[video=youtube;0wYHkg9f9cg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wYHkg9f9cg[/video]

.

I think this video is where I understood the fork bottom to be reverse threaded. It's not the KTM fork so I shouldn't have assumed it to be accurate for our forks... I couldn't get mine off (didn't have proper fork tube clamping tool) and while we did try both directions, it probably didn't help we were trying to tighten it :-(

The video that mdabyo found is much better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pae_825u2bk&app=desktop
 

streetfighter

New Member
After I turned the rebound screw clockwise to fully close it, very light touch to make sure the needle would not break the valve, I had difficulty to turn the screw counter clockwise to adjust the rebound. At some point while I was turning the screw counterclockwise the screw just dropped into the fork tube.

Anyone had a similar experience? How do I fix it and what parts do I need to order ?

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

hvlmike

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To resurrect an old post and shed some light on a subject here.... I found this on utube, will let you know how it turns out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_a8AhUDg9E&t=51s

Good vid. I did my cartridges months ago. I'm a machinist and just fabricated all the tooling I needed . Main thing to point out is to heat the bottom till you see the Loctite bubble (like he says in the video). This is crucial...if you don't get it hot enough you'll have major problems and could damage the threads trying to get the tube out.
 

HardRacing

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Good vid. I did my cartridges months ago. I'm a machinist and just fabricated all the tooling I needed . Main thing to point out is to heat the bottom till you see the Loctite bubble (like he says in the video). This is crucial...if you don't get it hot enough you'll have major problems and could damage the threads trying to get the tube out.
.Totally agree.Do NOT Force RED Loctite. If it doesn't come loose easy, heat it up more. .
 

stubble

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A couple of questions if anyone can help:
1. Is there a spring rate chart for these anywhere? I am under-sprung. I'm a big dude, 275 with gear.
2. Anyone know the difference between the 105/KT2 (which I have) and the 105/KT8E listed on the Andreani website for the 390?
 
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