Bike is running like shit.

[ifindbombs]

2017 RC 390

Long story short, I installed a PCV with WB2, K&N air filter with MT open air lid, straight mid pipe, cheap slip on with out baffle, and map from Rottweiler for open air box and comp exhaust.

Bike will not stay running at idle, and struggles on all gears unless I’m wide open in 5th or 6th. Acts like it wants to stall.

I have a code reader hooked up and it threw all of these codes this morning on a 10 minutes ride. I know I could take it to a ktm shop and have them fix it, but I would like to learn more about the bike and do it myself. I’m just not sure where to start. I did do some research and found that that TAC code could be caused by a dirty throttle body. Could that cause everything else, or do I have some other serious issues? Any advice on where to start my trouble shooting would be greatly appreciated.

OBD codes:
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: [ OTHER BRAND ]
VIN: MD2JYJ406HC270674

============1==============
P061F(00)
Raw code: 061F00
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Engine control module (ECM), throttle actuator controller - performance problem
============2==============
P0134(00)
Raw code: 013400
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - no activity detected
============3==============
P0130(00)
Raw code: 013000
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - circuit malfunction
============4==============
P2176(00)
Raw code: 217600
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Throttle actuator control (TAC) system - idle position not learned
============5==============
P2135(00)
Raw code: 213500
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) or Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor/switch A/B - voltage correlation
============6==============
P2135
Raw code: 2135
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) or Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor/switch A/B - voltage correlation
============7==============
P061F
Raw code: 061F
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Engine control module (ECM), throttle actuator controller - performance problem
============8==============
P2135
Raw code: 2135
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle position (TP) or Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor/switch A/B - voltage correlation
============9==============
P061F
Raw code: 061F
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Engine control module (ECM), throttle actuator controller - performance problem
============10==============
P0134
Raw code: 0134
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - no activity detected
============11==============
P0130
Raw code: 0130
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1 - circuit malfunction
============12==============
P2176
Raw code: 2176
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Throttle actuator control (TAC) system - idle position not learned

Thanks again in advance!

 

[MNNTHBX]

We use Bazzaz, and not PC, however they both work well. We diagnose A LOT of issues like this (though mainly on smaller bikes), and there's a common theme: Either the tuner is installed incorrectly (buyer always swear it's done right, right up until they realize it isn't), or there's a bad map loaded into the bike (worth noting, most cheap Amazon exhausts indeed perform horribly, which causes mapping issues).

 

[ifindbombs]

Thank you for that bit of info on the exhaust. It is a cheap Amazon system so that could in fact be the cause. Is there anything I can do to better diagnose how the exhaust is working, and determine if and how I can modify it to work better?

 

[MNNTHBX]

Thank you for that bit of info on the exhaust. It is a cheap Amazon system so that could in fact be the cause. Is there anything I can do to better diagnose how the exhaust is working, and determine if and how I can modify it to work better?

Again, we're all things Bazzaz, and not PCV, so I'm not as familiar, but if they're similar, I'd run some self mapping, and review what AFRs it's reading across the power curve. Good chance it's bad off somewhere. Side note: People always try to justify why that Amazon exhaust is great, for only $150. I can't begin to tell you how many times that stuff tests and works like total garbage. By and large, ZERO R&D goes into that stuff. Just something pretty, built in a dirt floored shack for a quick and cheap eBay sale.... I don't like spending money any more than anyone else, but do yourself a favor, and use a proven exhaust.

 

[ifindbombs]

Thank you for that bit of advice. I clearly didn’t understand just how much the exhaust can affect the total performance. I will definitely be looking into a proven exhaust ASAP as finances allow. I honestly thought that while it may not provide the same level of performance as a Tyga or Akro system, the auto tune function would be able to adjust everything to make it function decently. I don’t intend on trying to milk the bike for everything it’s worth, just want to be able to commute and possibly do occasional track rides.

Is there anything, as far as the throttle body and associated sensors are concerned, that I need to inspect and confirm for proper function? Specifically the TAC system idle issue? I will go ahead and tear the bike back down to confirm the PCV is connected properly, but while I have it broken down, should I go ahead and remove the throttle body to make sure it’s not fouled up? Is there anything I should be aware of in doing that as far as creating other issues?

Do you have any recommended sources that would help me better understand the mapping and tuning process, and is it possible to do myself accurately, or do I really need to go to a dyno?

I’m sorry for all of the questions, but I really do appreciate the feedback, and will definitely look to y’all when I’m able to purchase a proper exhaust system, as well as any other parts I may need in the future.

 

[Fasteddy]

FWIW, take it one step at a time, something with install is likely causing it to throw the codes you listed, check your install work / connections and if that doesn't clear codes disconnect PCV and reconnect as stock just to see if it makes ECU happy, then go back to PCV. Taking more things apart / shotgunning is only going to get you further from solving the issue assuming it was all fine before PCV was added.

 

[ifindbombs]

FWIW, take it one step at a time, something with install is likely causing it to throw the codes you listed, check your install work / connections and if that doesn't clear codes disconnect PCV and reconnect as stock just to see if it makes ECU happy, then go back to PCV. Taking more things apart / shotgunning is only going to get you further from solving the issue assuming it was all fine before PCV was added.

Solid advice, thank you

 

[hvlmike]

It's a bit of a hassle, but I would disconnect the PCV and hook the oem connectors back up just to see if it throws any codes...then you'd know if it was a PCV issue or not.