Ryanthegreat1
New Member
How thick is that material?
And off topic, that is water jet? My plasma setup leaves cleaner edges than that on aluminum. I would expect better considering the price differences.
Broken Heel Guards on Tyga Rearsets
How thick is that material?
And off topic, that is water jet? My plasma setup leaves cleaner edges than that on aluminum. I would expect better considering the price differences.
KwicK To Master KTM
New Member
Yes you are correct the right hand side will not fit between but in saying that I knew that when I was drawing them up and designed it to fasten to the outside of the aluminium rear set. Will trim out the carbon heel guard and keep it as a spacer in there.
KwicK To Master KTM
New Member
Hey there Ryanthegreat1 - I had the aluminium cut in 6 mm at this stage - Yes water jet cutting - and you are correct plasma will leave a cleaner edge - Had them water cut for a trial run and will get another pair cut with Laser after any final adjustments required to the drawing file. like I said they wont be everyone's cup of tea but being a Draftsman there is no cost to me to experiment with mates in the water cutting Laser cutting game
I'm still kicking around the idea of manufacturing aluminum heel guards as well, if Tyga doesn't elect to make them. Matt@Tyga is on vacation back to the UK for a few weeks so I'll have to discuss in more detail once he gets back. I've got a finger box break so bending the material to allow for the required bends shouldn't be a problem, and my CNC Plasma is getting closer to being completed by the day.
HardknockGarage
New Member
I just installed and ran the TYGA rearsets through a track day. The quality is great for the price. My only gripes are the lack of more adjustment positions and the small flimsy heel guards. Not sure if i have the revised set, but they bend with just a little pressure on them. I have not cracked or broken them yet, but it feels like it is only a matter of time before they do. I do feel like the heel guards should be as strong if not stronger than the stock items. It's a performance part right?
With that said, they are good value for the price and a definite improvement in position over stock. I typically have paid around a $100-$200 more for rearsets that did not have these issues in the past, Woodcraft, Arata, Vortex.
I would be very interested in larger and more sturdy replacement heal guards for the TYGA rearsets.
With that said, they are good value for the price and a definite improvement in position over stock. I typically have paid around a $100-$200 more for rearsets that did not have these issues in the past, Woodcraft, Arata, Vortex.
I would be very interested in larger and more sturdy replacement heal guards for the TYGA rearsets.
Chris RC390
Member
Both bikes have broken heel guards, I am hoping they came out with stronger guards.
I am following this thread because I just ordered up a whole brake upgrade for the RC390 and the next project is rearsets. I am really leaning towards the Driven TT since this appears to remain a constant issue for Tyga. Is Tyga replacing the broken heel guards or is everyone forking out $21 each plus shipping to replace them? If you have to pay for replacements then I think I just justified the extra $192 for the Driven.
As far as I know, no-one has broken the redesigned thicker heel guards.
green_bread
Member
I broke the revised one you sent me but its still hanging on by some of the fibers, so I havent said anything about it. The problem with the one you sent me was that the holes werent drilled correctly, so it didnt mount to the bracket correctly. I tried to open them up per your suggestion, but I guess I didnt open it up enough. First off, the holes werent even drilled big enough for the bolts to go through. Second, the spacing was incorrect so I would have ended up with oblong holes. Its very possible that since the guard couldnt be mounted to the bracket correctly, it caused extra stress on the part. I dont know... Like I said, Im not super worried about it since its still barely hanging on, but it would be nice if the manufacturer could.. I dont know... make parts that work with the parts they make?
The other issue with the Tyga rearsets losing the brake lever stopper, then Tyga doesnt offer a replacement part for that, sucks, too. I would say if you have the money to spend on the Driven rearsets, go that route.
The bolts that hold the pegs to the bracket suck, too. I expected better quality for shelling out near $300, but this was a lesson learned, for sure.
I have made replacement brake stops. The problem is they initially were not shipped with that piece with Loctite applied. The expectation was that the pedal position would be adjusted, then lock it. These days the part is locked at initial assembly.
octaneguy
New Member
I lost mine too but Matt created a custom piece for me to fix it. I also found parts at my local Ace Hardware for it. The spring for the lever was lost. I put it back and made sure to loc-tite it and it's been great. No issues. Unfortunately i had my dealer install my rear sets, so I wasn't even aware that this was an adjustable piece that needed to be loc-tited in place.
green_bread
Member
I was able to make a suitable replacement for the brake stop, as well. It's not great but it gets me by. Matt has great service and I'm not unhappy with him, at all. I hope I didn't give that impression. I would just like a little less hassle with the rearsets, is all. There's enough to worry about during a race weekend already. I also coach for my org, so it doesn't leave me a lot of down time to be fixing little issues here and there with my rearsets.
I ended up buying the Tyga rearsets. These are for my wife's RC390 so I do not really expect her to destroy the heel guards. I decided to read up a little I have friend coming over Sunday to help me install these. The brake stop is no longer an item of concern? I just wanted to see if there was any SNAFU I needed to be aware during install. Also any tips or is it straight forward following instructions? Thanks.
Just remember, it's a single. Loctite is your friend!!! The instructions say to adjust and loctite the stop, but some skip that step, or have installers who don't look at the instructions. They are set with loctite when initially assembled now, just in case, but I generally recommend everyone pick up a stick (or three) of loctite 248 (aka blue) and ANY time they undo a bolt on the RC, they apply a bit when putting it back on/in.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-QuickStix-442-37684-Thread-Treatment/dp/B000132VH6