I've read variations on this for a long time. I've not thrashed an engine during break-in, but I've commonly been more aggressive than "under 6K." The bikes I've done this way have all ended up strong runners, with essentially no oil use.
BUT. None of the ones I've done this way have shown the crap in the oil that this bike has. So, I'm going to try to find another oil filter and change it at around 425, then to the dealer for the 600 mi (1000Km) service.
I ordered from the forum sponsors, and paid $9 each plus shipping. Which O-rings are you replacing? I know a ring for the filter cover came in the big "kit," but does one come in the package with just the filter?
My mate an engine builder and rally driver would be up untill 3 am putting a fresh built engine in , then he'd go out for 200 miles and thrash it ( maybe fairly steady for the first 50 miles ) then a oil change and race the next day , his engines always lasted and always produced good power .
I didnt pick my bike up and bounce it off the limiter out of the show room but i was upto 9k on its first run out of 200miles and gave it a quick top speed run . It was on track from 650 miles and its a very strong engine .
Okay, thought I'd update the thread with the results of my 433 mile second change: Pics are kind of irrelevant, because there was virtually no swarf, and definitely no gasket material and no moto snot in the two screens. The filter was grey, but I suspect that's normal for an oil soaked yellow paper filter. There was no murkiness to the drained oil, and there didn't appear to be any appreciable metallic debris in it either.
So, I still feel good about getting the oil out a second time before the scheduled service. Due to my travails with this change (read elsewhere), I may let the dealer do the 600 mile service except the oil change, and handle that myself.
Usually when they run two drain plugs it's because while there is shared oil, if you separate them enough the clutch will have cleaner oil. All that nasty burning action doesn't make the clutch all that happy. Some engines will actually completely separate the clutch/transmission oil, from the engine oil. And of course on the two stroke machines the combustion chamber is completely separate from the gear oil.
Did the first change at 208 miles with Repsol mineral oil, had the typical gasket chunks/few metal flakes, but no long worms yet. Question on oil level, I understand the recommendation for our bikes is to warm up the engine, shut off, wait a couple minutes and check the level with the bike upright not on the side stand...but is it also OK to check the level after an actual ride where the engine is hot not just warm? I'm wondering if there's too much expansion of the oil when it's hot vs just warm and if I have the correct level when hot hot if I should really have more oil in the engine? When my bike is cold there's oddly no oil at all in the sight glass, the opposite of my other bike. Picky question, but I'm ocd like that and want to know everyone's thoughts.
My experience matches Ryanthegreat1's. I'm working my way to learning the "normal" amount to put in after a change; it's been a tick low with the engine warm after both changes that I did. I haven't ridden it since the dealer did their change at the first service. But to answer your question, IMO no problem checking ≈1-2 minutes after stopping full hot.
Already done (2) oil changes before 600 miles on the odometer. Now while the bike is in the shop for a warranty issue at 960 miles I am having another oil change done by the dealer while it is on the lift...
Did my 1st oil change as stated before at 208 miles, here's a picture of my change today at 396 miles...basically no gasket chunks seen during the first change, only tiny metal specs and no bigger specs like in the first change. The filters both had basically nothing in them and the tiny metal specs could only be seen glistening in the oil under sunlight. Neither change had any gasket worms. Looking forward to getting the 1st service done and valves checked!