Maddog Reynolds
New Member
Straight away, I'll say ACF-50 or Copaslip on all the little fasteners on fairing etc. After 4 months over winter from new, mine were rusted and difficult to remove. And change the oil halfway between services.
Is there a list of suggested mods for a road bike?
psych0hans
Member
- ABS delete
- Brake pads upgrade
- R6 shock swap
- Linear front springs instead of progressive
- 1.6 bar radiator cap
What else do you think needs improvement on the bike?
Maddog Reynolds
New Member
I think the rear is under-damped and I ended up with too much preload to compensate. I'm 12 stone (76 kg). R6 shocker sounds good. The front forks seem OK so far for my roads, but a better rear might show its weakness?
ABS? For a road bike I'd say ABS stays on. I've turned it off once and checked the wheels lock as expected, then turned it back on again. Why wouldn't I, when I ride in all weathers and sometimes through a farming area
If I feel the ABS kick in, that's a more friendly reminder (than a locked front wheel) that I went in too fast
Standard front brake seems to have warped. I bedded the pads in nice and gently while I was breaking-in the engine, then after that I only did one heavy stop (only from 80 mph) and the front has a high spot or warping ever since. Not bad enough to worry, just annoying.
Poor disc material? I might consider a better disc or a floater to avoid this issue. The standard pads are gentle but that doesn't do any harm on mixed roads in all weathers. They aren't sharp like the brakes on my Honda SP-1, but then I don't see the need on a light bike.
Engine feels a bit restricted in both inket and exhaust, by the feel of it. I might try another exhaust. Is there a cable I can use with the UST software to correct fuelling when I do?
Oh and there is a really bad habit of stalling when cold. It goes *way* too rich just as I pull away gently. Then I have to wind the starter for 5 or 10 seconds to restart it. If I open it up (not nice with cold oil) it doesn't stall. Two or three minutes later, (enough for the Lambda sensor to warm up?) the problem goes. Perhaps I can correct that with UST? I might fix that first, if I can.
The bike was sold after a bad PDI. Dipped headlight was way too high, making enemies in every car I passed. Toolkit screwdriver fixed that.
Front brake was pulling. That went away when it was rebuilt to fit new fork seals. Yeah, one of those blew at 3,000 miles from new and I had to pay :-(
A quick throttle might be good. There's no need for a slow throttle, even on wet roads. Any recommendations?
That's all I can think of. And now it's time for... beer
ABS? For a road bike I'd say ABS stays on. I've turned it off once and checked the wheels lock as expected, then turned it back on again. Why wouldn't I, when I ride in all weathers and sometimes through a farming area
If I feel the ABS kick in, that's a more friendly reminder (than a locked front wheel) that I went in too fast
Standard front brake seems to have warped. I bedded the pads in nice and gently while I was breaking-in the engine, then after that I only did one heavy stop (only from 80 mph) and the front has a high spot or warping ever since. Not bad enough to worry, just annoying.
Poor disc material? I might consider a better disc or a floater to avoid this issue. The standard pads are gentle but that doesn't do any harm on mixed roads in all weathers. They aren't sharp like the brakes on my Honda SP-1, but then I don't see the need on a light bike.
Engine feels a bit restricted in both inket and exhaust, by the feel of it. I might try another exhaust. Is there a cable I can use with the UST software to correct fuelling when I do?
Oh and there is a really bad habit of stalling when cold. It goes *way* too rich just as I pull away gently. Then I have to wind the starter for 5 or 10 seconds to restart it. If I open it up (not nice with cold oil) it doesn't stall. Two or three minutes later, (enough for the Lambda sensor to warm up?) the problem goes. Perhaps I can correct that with UST? I might fix that first, if I can.
The bike was sold after a bad PDI. Dipped headlight was way too high, making enemies in every car I passed. Toolkit screwdriver fixed that.
Front brake was pulling. That went away when it was rebuilt to fit new fork seals. Yeah, one of those blew at 3,000 miles from new and I had to pay :-(
A quick throttle might be good. There's no need for a slow throttle, even on wet roads. Any recommendations?
That's all I can think of. And now it's time for... beer
Last edited:
MotoKam
Member
Maddog,
I put 24,000 miles on my RC390 in the first year riding to work and back (100 miles each way). My bike is decidedly a road bike. Here's what I did to make it better:
1. SPAL fan upgrade. There's a great thread on the Duke 390 forum that walks you through it. My 2015 model overheated three times causing it to shut down for 15 minutes and, I believe, led to a piston failure. No problems since.
2. KTM Power Parts ergo seat. That extra 20mm makes all the difference. I went from pain after 20 minutes to hours of comfortable riding.
3. KTM Power Parts front brake upgrade. The stock rotor warped after just a few weeks. This brake has lasted 10,000+ miles and is strong and smooth.
4. KTM Power Parts adjustable brake and clutch levers. I feel much more in sync with my motorcycle after installing and adjusting these controls.
5. Quality aftermarket chain. The stocker stretched unevenly rather quickly despite meticulous maintenance.
6. Bridgestone S20 EVO tires. The stock Pirellis were fine. Although, the rear had a blow out at 5,300 miles at 90 MPH. I replace tires at 3,000 miles now and I only trust super sticky rubber.
MAINTAIN! MAINTAIN! MAINTAIN! Keep up with the oil and filter changes. I have always used a quality motorcycle specific oil changing it at 3,000 - 4,000 miles.
I weigh 220 lbs (100 Kg) and ride way too fast on the freeway. I've never felt the suspension need upgrading, but I'm sure I'd be very pleased with a lot of the spring and damper upgrades people describe in this forum.
Unless I was using this bike for the track only, I'd never bypass the ABS. That just seems like a stupid idea to me. I routinely practice panic stops to find where the ABS engages because it just doesn't happen during normal riding. But, it only takes once to save your ass.
Cheers,
~Kam
I put 24,000 miles on my RC390 in the first year riding to work and back (100 miles each way). My bike is decidedly a road bike. Here's what I did to make it better:
1. SPAL fan upgrade. There's a great thread on the Duke 390 forum that walks you through it. My 2015 model overheated three times causing it to shut down for 15 minutes and, I believe, led to a piston failure. No problems since.
2. KTM Power Parts ergo seat. That extra 20mm makes all the difference. I went from pain after 20 minutes to hours of comfortable riding.
3. KTM Power Parts front brake upgrade. The stock rotor warped after just a few weeks. This brake has lasted 10,000+ miles and is strong and smooth.
4. KTM Power Parts adjustable brake and clutch levers. I feel much more in sync with my motorcycle after installing and adjusting these controls.
5. Quality aftermarket chain. The stocker stretched unevenly rather quickly despite meticulous maintenance.
6. Bridgestone S20 EVO tires. The stock Pirellis were fine. Although, the rear had a blow out at 5,300 miles at 90 MPH. I replace tires at 3,000 miles now and I only trust super sticky rubber.
MAINTAIN! MAINTAIN! MAINTAIN! Keep up with the oil and filter changes. I have always used a quality motorcycle specific oil changing it at 3,000 - 4,000 miles.
I weigh 220 lbs (100 Kg) and ride way too fast on the freeway. I've never felt the suspension need upgrading, but I'm sure I'd be very pleased with a lot of the spring and damper upgrades people describe in this forum.
Unless I was using this bike for the track only, I'd never bypass the ABS. That just seems like a stupid idea to me. I routinely practice panic stops to find where the ABS engages because it just doesn't happen during normal riding. But, it only takes once to save your ass.
Cheers,
~Kam
Attachments
Last edited:
Maddog Reynolds
New Member
Kam you make some good points. I'd go further with oil. I changed it and cleaned the screens at half way to the next service, about 2k miles.
I guess the stock front disc is of poor steel. If it gets any worse I might throw on a floating wave disc. For the difference in price, I might fit a 320mm one if it is easy to space out the caliper to fit.
My bike came with Metzeler Sportec tyres. They stick like glue, but wear out too fast. I'm on Bridgstone BT016 Pro now and very happy with them as they stick well wet and dry
I guess the stock front disc is of poor steel. If it gets any worse I might throw on a floating wave disc. For the difference in price, I might fit a 320mm one if it is easy to space out the caliper to fit.
My bike came with Metzeler Sportec tyres. They stick like glue, but wear out too fast. I'm on Bridgstone BT016 Pro now and very happy with them as they stick well wet and dry
Last edited:
Maddog Reynolds
New Member
I forgot to mention the RPM light. It came with RPM1 set to flash at 7,000, which is a bit high for initial running-in and a bit low for a warning now. It was easy to change the two thresholds to 8k and 9k, though.
MotoKam
Member
The brake kit I installed came with the 320mm floating wave rotor, the correct spacers, and the bolts to make the swap easy. I put in Double-H pads for a solid initial bite. It all makes for a fantastic brake, even for my substantial mass... It all cost less than $300.
The EVOs also wear fast. However, tires are so cheap for this bike ($200/set delivered), I don't mind replacing them that often to know the best grip is always available. If nothing else, I've gotten to where I can mount and balance a set of tires in less than an hour
The EVOs also wear fast. However, tires are so cheap for this bike ($200/set delivered), I don't mind replacing them that often to know the best grip is always available. If nothing else, I've gotten to where I can mount and balance a set of tires in less than an hour
Maddog Reynolds
New Member
Where did you get the 320mm kit?
I used to do my own tyres. I had a bead-breaker I made from a fence post. Then some dirtbag threw it on a bonfire! I go to my dealer to fit tyres, now :-(
I used to do my own tyres. I had a bead-breaker I made from a fence post. Then some dirtbag threw it on a bonfire! I go to my dealer to fit tyres, now :-(
MotoKam
Member
I got the brake kit from Scuderia West in San Francisco. It's KTM part #[FONT=&]908 09 960 044. I'm sure plenty of KTM dealers in the UK can hook you up.
Here's how I do my tires:
[/FONT]
These tools have more than paid for themselves over the time and expense of having someone else do the work. And when you bolt the rack to the concrete floor, dirtbags are immediately discouraged from setting it ablaze.
I should get the self retaining axle spacers too. It can be a bit fussy getting all the bits to line up with only two elbows
Here's how I do my tires:
[/FONT]
These tools have more than paid for themselves over the time and expense of having someone else do the work. And when you bolt the rack to the concrete floor, dirtbags are immediately discouraged from setting it ablaze.
I should get the self retaining axle spacers too. It can be a bit fussy getting all the bits to line up with only two elbows
D
Deleted member 452
Guest
ABS delete on a road bike?
psych0hans
Member
The ABS on this bike makes the brakes really mushy, no feedback whatsoever and you need to squeeze the lever all the way to get decent braking. I like getting a really strong initial bite from my brakes and deleting ABS gave me that. I have other bikes with ABS and have had no issues with them, but in this bike the ABS just makes things worse...
D
Deleted member 452
Guest
Disagree on the cause of mushiness. Flushing with top spec fluid, bleeding several times, and zip tie lever overnight really helped. Replacing the master cylinder (I'm using a Frando) eliminated the rest of the mush and I'm still using ABS W/OEM lines.
I concur entirely with bahawton. There is nothing inherently mushy in the ABS system - it's a Bosch, widely used on many other bikes. On the 390 the ABS system seems to have a tendency on some bikes to accumulate air bubbles over time, resulting in a squishy lever feel. A careful bleeding (from the bottom) and use of good quality brake fluid will restore a solid lever feel without giving up the significant safety advantages of the ABS system. A Frando MC is also a helpful upgrade.
Maddog Reynolds
New Member
Now the climate is warming up here in Cumbria, the rear shock is starting to feel like a pogo stick in a pool of custard. And I can tell the front forks will feel too soft as soon as I sort the rear. I'm hoping thicker oil and less progressive springs will be enough...
=maz=
Member
I changed the springs, front and rear to straight-springs, 7wt fluid in the front...made a world of difference.
I've only heard of one solitary 390 owner who fitted the R6 conversion and was not highly pleased with the results. And that unlucky person apparently bought a truly worn-out R6 core. It can happen, these are not new shocks. But normally, it works great. Ideal upgrade for a street bike.
Maddog Reynolds
New Member
I could get the Ohlins rear shock, of course, but it's quite expensive. I think I'd go for the rebuilt R6 shock with a spring to suit me. One of the guys here does them, and I saved a message, but I can't remember who right this minute.
zaster
Member
My recommendation and I'm very happy with it:
Front brake pads EBS FA606HH
Driven rear sets
Ohlins rear shock KT303
Race Tech fork springs with 5 wt syn oil
BMC air filter (needed some trimming to fit the air box)
RS9 Yoshimura exhaust
PCV with wide band 2 auto tune
CNC shorty levers
Helix Racing radiator cap
Swing arm spool sliders
CNC clip ons
Front brake pads EBS FA606HH
Driven rear sets
Ohlins rear shock KT303
Race Tech fork springs with 5 wt syn oil
BMC air filter (needed some trimming to fit the air box)
RS9 Yoshimura exhaust
PCV with wide band 2 auto tune
CNC shorty levers
Helix Racing radiator cap
Swing arm spool sliders
CNC clip ons
Maddog Reynolds
New Member
That's the one! I'm thinking that, for a road bike, the R6 damping would be fine if I can get the spring right. The standard spring is too soft and I am used to "rock-hard" suspension