Formula390

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I'm excited to announce Formula390 has signed a dealer agreement with JRi for the RC390, and as part of that have also arranged with them to be able to do an offering to the forum members a group buy for the Double Adjustable w/Remote shock. The normal price for the JRi Double Adjuster is $899, but with the group buy discounted rate I'm able to offer the JRi Double Adjustable w/Remote for a limited time for xxxxx! (Edit, pricing removed now that the window is closed)

This shock is amazing and is a HUGE improvement over the stock shock! The R6 conversion shock is terrific, but the JRi is an essential upgrade for those looking to put their bike on the track, those who are members of the Big Boys Club, those who are pushing the bikes limits on backroads on the street, or hitting the limits of what the non-adjustable stock shock can do. I ran the R6 shock on our test mule bike for a few weeks and was amazed at the improvement it made. Then I put the JRi on, and it was that much better again! The bike is practically welded to the pavement now. It's everything the bike should have been stock, and more! :) Don't take my word for it tho. Search the forum and see what other forum members are saying about the JRi shock on their street and track bikes. Everyone is absolutely loving their JRi shocks!

The group buy will close at the end of the month on August 31st at Noon, US Central time. I will then contact you directly to arrange payment. Once I've received your payment I will then place the order for your shock with JRi. Depending on interest levels, I might be able to order your shock before then, but to be able to offer y'all the discounted rate I need to have minimum order quantities hit of no less than 5-7 shocks per batch order. Once the shocks are ordered I will receive them in ~10 business days. Once I receive the shocks I will then ensure you have the correct rate spring and set the preload to approximately the amount necessary for the sag for your weight, and ship you your shock.

So, if you'd like to participate in the group buy here is what you need to do. Either: email me directly at [email protected] or send me a PM here, or you can comment on this thread. You will need to send me the following information:
  • Name
  • Rider Weight in plain clothes.
  • Rider Weight in full gear.
  • Riding style: Road racing, Track days, Street, or whatever combination there of.
  • City, State

Here's an Example:
  • Matt Schreiner
  • Plain Clothes - 210
  • Full Gear - 225
  • Riding: Street and the occasional Track Day
  • Austin, TX

This will be so I will know which spring to order for you. If you have a preference for a particular spring rate, feel free to state that instead however.


pfzL2JMx4GDpjYqLI1ZuaonWyLMHNscRx7Sel3BIVAg=w1001-h420-no


42VNG_bebh3hOrejheAVd2gqx0YQbIApUJ1paVlh4F0=w1268-h713-no


K06ZYrOOq2JJXOUWGh9ZWPfBngw6vHUFy-iNmkU11jk=w1268-h713-no


Hopefully everyone who wants to take advantage of this offering will be able to do so. I was able to negotiate the group buy with JRi as part of my signing the dealer agreement, as I wanted to be able to offer the community the shock for a discounted rate. For those who've already purchased JRi shocks, sorry I wasn't able to make this offer available sooner. I wanted to put the shock through it's paces and be sure I loved it before I agreed to be a dealer for them as I'll only sell product I fully believe in and know others will love as well. Tige at JRi is fully in support of this group buy and we are both excited to get the shock in the hands of as many forum members as we can. :)
 
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OldVet

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Is there any chance JRi will offer a shock with a "piggy back" reservoir? I'm not a big fan of the looks of the remote reservoir.
 

big_sur

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Is there any chance JRi will offer a shock with a "piggy back" reservoir? I'm not a big fan of the looks of the remote reservoir.

I don't think there's space except for maybe on the front side, which you definitely don't want the reservoir right above the exhaust. That's the main idea behind having an external reservoir (fixed or remote), preventing the shock from overheating.
 

OldVet

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It appears remote may be the only option.

That is all Penske is offering and according to Dan Kyle he doesn't know what or when Ohlin's will have a shock for these things.
 

Formula390

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The remote reservoir is all that JRi are manufacturing to date, tho a custom made shock could certainly be ordered. You'd have to contact Tige directly at JRi to discuss that. There may be issues with fitment however, so you'd be taking a risk. The R6 shock fits, like big_sur mentioned, you would have to put the piggy back facing forward. Fitment would be tight. Ronin tried using the R6 Ohlins shock, which has a piggy back, and ran into fitment problems with not being able to get that shock to work at least with the stock exhaust. I rode with the R6 shock for about 2 weeks, and didn't notice appreciable heat issues like I did with the stock shock, so I don't agree that the piggy back being above the exhaust is as big of an issue as some might think it would be. Still, the JRi is 400% better than the stock shock. To compare the performance of the R6 reworked shock to stock I would say it was probably 250% better than the stock shock. The JRi is DAMN good. I wouldn't have become a dealer for them if I didn't believe in the shock, which is why I initially purchased a shock to test it prior to ever becoming a JRi dealer or offering it for sale. It easily performs as well or better than any of the other aftermarket shocks I've ridden on (Penske, Fox, Ohlins) and can say, beyond doubt, that the shock made a HUGE improvement in the handling of the bike.

I will warn ya' tho... you'll want to update the front end as well. Once the back end is welded to the pavement... you'll REALLY hate the stock front end!!! LOL
 

Formula390

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I'm not a big fan of the looks of the remote reservoir.

I'm not saying that it's guaranteed, as I haven't tried it... but you MAY be able to put the reservoir in the "storage compartment" (such as it is)... maybe. Of course, you wouldn't have room for the toolkit anymore. You also might be able to route it such that you could put it up towards the front of the bike. I didn't really ever consider alternate mounting locations. Putting it forward would result in potential heat build up as well from the motor just as the piggy back might be impacted by heat from the exhaust. You could always perform a "cat-ecktomy" and remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust system. That would cut a lot of the heat output by the exhaust. Of course, with your location stated as "Being near Laguna Seca" then you would also risk the ire of CA law... and LEO's... but that's your call... Just letting you know of potential alternatives to a traditional mounting location on the rear frame.
 

OldVet

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I will warn ya' tho... you'll want to update the front end as well. Once the back end is welded to the pavement... you'll REALLY hate the stock front end!!! LOL

Thanks for the info and yeah I assumed that would be the case. What are my options for the front end?
 

Formula390

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Thanks for the info and yeah I assumed that would be the case. What are my options for the front end?

There are two primary ways to go for updating the front end:
1) Go with a cartridge kit. GP Suspension makes one. I'm not sure if anyone else does yet. The labor is the same as option two, but allows for easy adjustment of preload at the least, and possibly adjustment of dampening as well. I'm not completely familiar with their kit.
2) Upgrade with straight rate springs at the correct rate for your weight, add a spacer for preload, and use the correct weight oil for your riding preference. Springs are available from Racetech. There are a few threads in the suspension section about doing this work, and plenty would be happy to answer questions you may have about performing the actual work. There are some specialty tools necessary to do the job, most of which are easy to fabricate if you don't have them already. The biggest one being a means of compressing the fork springs so you can disassemble the forks after you get the caps off. Disassembly of usd forks, once you've done it the first time, isn't a big deal and is totally something a garage wrench is capable of doing with basic tools and fabricate up something to do the fork spring compression. A fork spring compressor can be nothing more than a think walled round "something" (metal or PVC) with threaded holes to allow bolts to screw into the holes in the spacer to allow the springs to be compressed. The way I do it in my shop is then with a hydralic press, with a jig made to specifically hold fork legs, tho it can be done with nothing more than ratchet straps.

Most of us comfortable with doing suspension work tend to go with option 2. It's cheaper and easy to do, again, assuming you've done it at least once before. If you've never done it before, it can seem pretty daunting, but we ALL had to do it once and believe me, it's something any rider should be capable of learning how to do. Of course, I also believe that a rider should be capable of performing ALL their own work, but my opinion is admittedly pretty biased. LOL

You could also find a local shop that does suspension work there in the bay area (sorry, I don't know who that would be but I'm sure there has to be a few), or you could send off the forks to a suspension service center like Racetech, GP Suspension... or I'd be happy to do them for you at the same time I put the rear shock together for ya'. :) My shop rate is $60/hr for suspension work.

It should also be noted that almost every bike can radically benefit from tuned suspension. This isn't something that is a particular weakness in the RC390. Even my Gixxer 1000 got a full suspension update after I'd ridden it 25 miles back from the dealership. Stock suspension on all bikes will be setup for what the factory believes will be a "typical rider" which, near as I can tell, they all believe to be a 105lb Spanish or Japanese 13 year old kid...
 

Bagwell

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Andreani also makes cartridge kits for these forks. I have some fr springs on order, I went with the Suzuki Bandit 600 (GSF600) because they closely matched the length and diameter of the stock fork springs but come in .80-1.0kg/mm weights from racetech.
 

OldVet

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There are two primary ways to go for updating the front end:

Matt thank you for this info. I really don't know squat about doing this stuff myself, Dan Kyle has installed Ohlins on my CBR 929 & 954 and my 06 GSXR1000. I have been totally happy with the suspension on my 2011 BMWS1000RR so no changes there. At this time I think I will just deal with the rear shock and deal with the front later.

I will be sending you the info to get in on your JRi shock deal. I am wondering if you send that info to JRi and let them figure out what spring, etc. I need or do your figure that yourself?

Anyway I see you have three ways to get this info to you, which is your preferred way?

Thanks,

Gary
 
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Formula390

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I got a question about the adjustments on the shock, what they are, and where. So here's some additional details that may help those who are curious:

- Ride Height: There's a set of double nuts on the bottom of the shock. Height is adjusted by loosening the locking nut, and then turning the adjuster nut. Once the height is set to the amount desired, you lock it in with tightening the lock nut back against the adjuster again. Height can even be adjusted while the shock is still mounted on the bike! :)
- Rebound: The Rebound adjuster is a twisting adjustment knob located on the bottom of the shock, between the ride height adjuster and the bottom collar for the spring. There are 60 clicks of adjustment.
- Compression: The Compression adjuster is located on the remote reservoir can. There are 6 clicks of adjustment. High and Low speed compression adjustments are shared. To separate them, you would need the triple adjuster. That would be a waste on the RC390 in my opinion, and also likely why JRi started their offering with the double adjuster.
- Preload: There's a threaded collar on the top of the spring and the shock tower. It's adjusted with a provided wrench which looks like a bent piece of round bar stock. Adjustment is really easy to do, also with the shock on the bike.


Here's one of the initial photos with labels and arrows pointing out the locations of the adjustments on the shock:
oduloMPAo-MadtlO6rijg6shkc-BAUYCMlkZNQmgRW8=w1268-h713-no
 

Formula390

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Matt thank you for this info. I really don't know squat about doing this stuff myself, Dan Kyle has installed Ohlins on my CBR 929 & 954 and my 06 GSXR1000. I have been totally happy with the suspension on my 2011 BMWS1000RR so no changes there. At this time I think I will just deal with the rear shock and deal with the front later.

I will be sending you the info to get in on your JRi shock deal. I am wondering if you send that info to JRi and let them figure out what spring, etc. I need or do your figure that yourself?

Anyway I see you have three ways to get this info to you, which is your preferred way?

Thanks,

Gary

The correct spring is based on your provided information. I determine that through working with JRi, but the calculations are pretty solid at this point for rider weight + style == XXX spring.

For how to get the info to me, email is my preferred method. That way I can send you a confirmation directly as well as communicate easier as we get closer to the time of fulfillment and can also send you a tracking number when your shock is on it's way...
 

OldVet

New Member
The correct spring is based on your provided information. I determine that through working with JRi, but the calculations are pretty solid at this point for rider weight + style == XXX spring.

For how to get the info to me, email is my preferred method. That way I can send you a confirmation directly as well as communicate easier as we get closer to the time of fulfillment and can also send you a tracking number when your shock is on it's way...

Great... My info will be to you shortly.

Thanks again...
 

SPG

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You say there are 6 clicks of compression adjustment? Is that a typo? It seems really coarse on an otherwise sweet shock.
-Sean
 

Formula390

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You say there are 6 clicks of compression adjustment? Is that a typo? It seems really coarse on an otherwise sweet shock.
-Sean

It's actually a not very course of an adjustment. The six clicks of compression is plenty. Remember your spring is handling the vast bulk of the compression. I found the adjustments to be very good at handling the range of adjustment needed. I'm not sure how many points/clicks of adjustment for compression the other shock manufacturers have, but that's what my Fox and Penske have on my other bikes.
 

SPG

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It's actually a not very course of an adjustment. The six clicks of compression is plenty. Remember your spring is handling the vast bulk of the compression. I found the adjustments to be very good at handling the range of adjustment needed. I'm not sure how many points/clicks of adjustment for compression the other shock manufacturers have, but that's what my Fox and Penske have on my other bikes.


Interesting. My Penske shocks are closer to 22-24 clicks for compression. As long as the valving is in the correct range, 6 clicks could cover it... Just surprised is all.
-Sean
 

Bagwell

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Wish I wasnt in Texas and this deal coming from a dealer in texas cause that kinda takes a bit of the "Deal" part outta it.
 
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