Question Prepping for the track

[Tirefriar]

Planning to take my 2015 RC to the track for the first time. Running Buttonwillow counterclockwise. Previous track bikes were ZX6 and an R6, I ride C group. What are recommendations to prep the RC for the track use? Oil has about 700 miles on it and I plan on swapping it out after the track day. I am concerned about the ABS, how to disconnect? Previous owner upgraded the front brake but the cooling system is completely stock, down to the radiator cap. Any concerns there?

 

[ReidMcT]

My 2015 has been exclusively a track bike from Day 1. I've been track riding for a year. We don't have groups, but if we did I probably would be a B, just so you know where I'm coming from. There are far more experienced riders than I on this forum.

What is your goal in wanting to 'disconnect' the ABS? I've read of racers re-plumbing to completely eliminate the ABS to improve brake feel, but I've never felt the need. Indeed, I like to have ABS and mine works very well for me in the rare instances when I need it.

If you want to deactivate ABS, see the Starting section of your owners manual. One button push will do it.

As for other recommendations:

• By far the easiest and best brake upgrade I did was simply to replace the front pads with aftermarket HH pads. Cheap and super-easy to do, with VERY noticeable improvement in braking. The much more expensive upgrade to a 320mm disc yielded only a subtle difference.
• I will offer that I've gone back to the stock radiator cap after running a high pressure cap for months. I think the high pressure cap only exacerbated a head gasket leak (which I'm fixing now), and I never really needed the benefits of higher pressure. I ride in Texas heat and have had no cooling trouble while running with the stock cap.
• Tires are the most impactful track prep item, I think. I don't know anything bout Buttonwillow so I can't say what works there for Group C. I will say that a 'serious' track tire such as Pirelli SC1 may not be a great choice. I had a set and found it difficult to get them hot just by riding; they need electric warmers. For me, a great tire is the Michelin Cup Evo, which is made to run at low pressures (22 psi) and gets hot in just one lap.
• Depending on your weight and riding style, and the track characteristics, you could benefit from suspension upgrades, front and rear.
• With 700 miles on the oil, make sure you don't have any signs of coolant contamination. If you are not having to top up the coolant reservoir, you're probably OK.
• Rearsets with grippy pegs set very high. The stock parts (and your toes) will touch down far easier than you might expect.
• Loctite. Loctite. Loctite. For any fasteners that aren't safety-wired, make sure they are not going to vibrate and fall off... especially those new cheap Chinese rearsets.

 

[Tirefriar]

I am the second owner of the RC. PO upgraded the bike in many areas but does not have any receipts or records for the work done. Some upgrades are visible, some are not. The good is that the PO understood value of top quality parts and all the upgrades are high end.

• ABS: I have never ridden an ABS equipped bike on the track. Both of my aforementioned track bikes were "old school" with no rider assist gizmos. I was looking to disconnect ABS purely on the advice of experienced acquaintances. Their concern was on how intrusive ABS will be.
• BRAKES: Front brake rotor was upgraded but not sure on the pads (unless there is a way to tell without taking them out). My rear brake is out, fluid level checks out, will try to bleed but not very concerned about it especially for the track.
• COOLING: Good to know about the cooling. I have a 2015 with the shrouded fan which I am planning to remove the shroud from. On later models the shroud has been opened up for better flow. Will keep the rest of cooling system stock.
• TIRES: I inherited the bike with Dunlop Sportmax tires. They are in good shape and should suffice for at least this track day. If I will keep the RC I would think that Dunlop Q3+ (had them on an R6 and they were great) or Q4 would be a good application in my case. BTW, I am a Michelin fan, have the Pilot Power 4 on the Bimota and PP 2CT on the Streetfigher but I can get a much sweeter deal on Dunlops especially on Q3+
• SUSPENSION: PO has installed Ohlins rear, he is not sure if he has done anything to the front. My weight fully geared is 240 lbs. PO was about 30 lbs lighter. Revolving the rear shock is not in the budget for now.
• OIL: I have an oil replacement kit incoming. In almost 2 full months that I had the bike I topped off the overflow tank with very small amount of distilled water. Perhaps I will drop the oil and replace filters before going onto the track. The small oil capacity of the RC is a bit worrisome.
• REARSETS: Bike currently runs TYGA rear sets.
• 
  
• • QUESTIONS:
  • COOLANT: what is the optimal for extreme temps? I'm in California and we roast in the summer months too.

 

[Hotroute]

I ride Buttonwillow a lot and will be there on May 9th actually. I switch between a 2016 R1 and a 2017 390. Your bike looks like it has all the important stuff man. Don’t even worry about the ABS, if you are in B/C group I doubt you would notice a difference with or without ABS. My cooling system is stock just with motul mo cool or whatever. I have done a ton of upgrades so far, but below probably the biggest to me for track days.

I bought a 2017 stock 390 and did a track day with it immediately. Here were my biggest issues:
- the stock Metzler tires sucked and rear was slipping on me. I am running Pirelli DOTs now.
- at 200lb the suspension was like a pogo stick, I upgraded front and rear suspension
- I was shifting ALL THE TIME and missing gears with aggressive clutch less up shifts. I got a quick shifter and the shift bearing kit to prevent missed shifts. This was a huge upgrade for me on the track

 

[Tirefriar]

I was keeping my eye on Let’s Ride calendar, even reached out to them about a week ago when there were plenty of openings for 5/9. I g those went very quickly. Happy to have gotten the spot for 5/24.

I want to install crash protection on the RC. Would have preferred crash bars used by stunters but found only one source that offers them for RC at roughly $450. Plenty of crash bars options for Duke 390 at roughly half the price. I wonder if those will fit if lower fairings are removed.

 

[Hotroute]

I’m signed up for 5/24 also. For my bike I just have the Ktm case covers but no sliders. Just don’t crash!

 

[Tirefriar]

Easier said than done. Anyway, I got time. Case covers + sliders is an option

 

[ReidMcT]

Regarding coolant, unless the track prohibits typical coolants, I'd suggest a long-life 'OAT' coolant. These are usually pink. One that is easy to find and inexpensive is Toyota long-life coolant. Some auto parts stores such as NAPA also carry house brands of pink coolant, which also are fine.

The important things to know about coolants are that there is no miracle fluid, and that good coolant not only transports heat but it also lubricates the water pump and controls corrosion. Corrosion control is often overlooked. Corroded engines overheat and blow head gaskets. About 6 years ago, Ducati recalled a bunch of bikes just so it could swap the stock green for pink because it was having to replace a bunch of cylinder heads and cylinders ruined by corrosion.

 

[ReidMcT]

Oh, and I installed a SPAL fan and eliminated the restrictive stock shroud. I don't think the fan is very important on the track, but getting rid of the shroud surely helps airflow.

 

[Tirefriar]

Eliminating the fan shroud is on my to-do list. I believe that the radiator needs to come out to access fan r&i, good time to bleed the cooling system and replace coolant. I don't recall Buttonwillow having any restrictions on the coolant so using the OAT coolant should be fine.

 

[Tirefriar]

I’m signed up for 5/24 also. For my bike I just have the Ktm case covers but no sliders. Just don’t crash!

I'll be there with a large group, perhaps 10 people or more. I am planning on bringing the KTM but may be sharing an MV F3 800 with a friend who rides B group.

 

[Andy]

Cheap option for ABS is to switch it off from the dash.

Other option is to fit Speigler lines and disconnect the extra lines to ABS module. I did this, left the module in so as to retain speedo then blanked the holes with 'Sensor Port Blanking Plug Bolt M10 x 1.0mm Hex Socket Head with sealing washer'.

Cooling i found Samco hoses, hi pressure rad cap and remo ing the rubbershroud helps.