Racing weight reduction


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The swing arm and front and rear spindle bolts are solid mild steel very heavy items, with ti items in place i think i will save 1.0 -1.2 kilo grams over the 3 , then the inner bearing spacers 2 in the rear one in the front , the back engine bolt and the other too foot peg bolts, all adds up a titainium bolt is roughly half the weight of the steel bolt from the stuff ive weighed on the bike. When ive finished sweeping bolts off the garage floor i'll weigh them, not all will be needed on the track bike build and some will be swapped for ti or aluminium for fairing fasteners . From memory The sprocket nuts were .48 grm the ti ones were .23grm so weight saved 120grm rougly do this in 9 places on the bike and thats another kilo gone, i left the hockey stick bolts as there high tensile.
really easy areas to drop weight = exhaust , battery , front disc , rear disc, and rear sprocket feom memory you should see around 7 kilo's depending on replacements and its not just the weight but where the weight is around the bike .
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A whole series of mods which I will detail later.. net weight reduction of 45 lbs so far.. from 160-front and 160-rear down to 146 front and 129 rear
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thats insane! i have been back to adding weight now, new class rules require the bike to be 320lbs! lol.. anyone having any issues with the front of the bike outweighing the rear so much? right now i ahve 170 front to 150 rear. the 20lb different seems a lot to me. the back end does bounce around a LOT.


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I replaced the ignition switch with a spst toggle switch.
It’s two wires pretty simple.
I used a simple toggle switch on my NSR racer years ago. It started to go glitchy and was a contributor to my crash that put me in a wheelchair for 5 months and PT for two years. It wasn't designed for the vibration of a racebike.

If it were me, I would either go with the woodcraft key delete or the R1 switchgear mod as outlined here:

I would lean toward the R1 solution myself, but that's me.