Remove ABS system for racing?

Hey, just wanted to know what others have done with the ABS module for racing. Have you removed it and just connected the brake lines directly to the master cylinders or have you just left all the lines as standard and turned the ABS off?

Whats it like either way....more feel with direct??



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there are lines to be used in replacement of the stock ones with the ABS unit still installed. I don't think turning it off makes any difference at the lever. I've seen lots of folks really exclaim how the ABS unit makes the lever feel unacceptable, thus the removal of the unit. What I have noticed is that it (to ME at least) seems to be identical, with the exception that you have a longer INITIAL pull is all. So, if you want to be able to stand the bike up on it's nose with 2 fingers and only pulling a short distance on the lever, you'd need to remove the ABS. Me, I've always been a long pull brake lever rider, and even with my racebikes I always rode with pulling the brakes with my three outside fingers. This way my thumb and index finger were always still able to moderate the throttle even while braking. Particularly helpful for my riding style with this method of braking, was that I still had the ability to blip the throttle during downshifts while I was braking and heading into the apex of the turn. Maybe that's a non-traditional method of racing / aggressive riding, but it's how I learned, and always worked very well for me. YMMV.
Thanks for the reply. That helps a lot. BTW I sent you an email asking if you will send to australia? I wanted the fork nut removal tool. thanks
I really disliked the brake feeling on track. I finally just upgrade the pads, and it's much better (not excellent but descent)
The motivation to remove ABS, for me, would be
- to save weight
- to avoid ABS action during very strong braking on track.
But to be honest this never happenned until now. Ok, I'm still not a strong braker. As soon as I have this issue, I will remove ABS. Not before.


I race two, both removed before they hit the track. Here's my take on the "abs". First of all the master cylinder for the front and the rear has to travel to and through the abs module to either the front or rear rotor. Second, you have to hold the reset button and make sure its off before you hit the track...IMHO its one more thing to have to think about before you head out on track. If you happen to have a get off, or stall out and forget to reset it then head back out for a hard lap I wouldn't want to have it activate and cause a mishap. I dont particularity trust the abs module and would prefer to have direct lines from the masters to the calipers, one less failure point. If you really want to keep the speedo/odometer, just eliminate the lines from the masters to the module and run the lines direct. Just my 2c but i prefer not having any abs on these bikes, its isn't sophisticated enough to be of any use on the track in any way. Street riding it may save your ass


You can just remove the unit and use the stock lines to reconnect everything. Forum user Fasteddy helped me with mine. He used a resistor to clear the ABS error on the dash. Works great now and dropped a bit of weight.


m3hl do you happen to know the resistance value and the pins on the connector that its plugged into? I wouldn't mind getting rid of the light as well
yeah thanks....all sounds great to me....personally I would never run street ABS on a race bike. I have had three experiences with ABS in race cars which caused huge issues. One was an ex formula ford champion who was test drving a nissan 200SX at a big stops track...on the second lap...yes second lap...the brakes got that hot that they wanted to grab the disc and so the abs simply stopped the the pads from touching and the guy had no brakes at 200km/h when he hit the barrier and somersaulted 360 degrees back on to the wheels over a 12 ft cyclone fence...t knocked him out and hurt his back badly....second was at bathurst for the 24 hour race and same 200SX's and all three cars ended up with no brakes and as result all three came dead last, 2nd last and 3rd last...and third was a Subaru wrx with abs on the dirt as a sweep car for the start of a rally....the thing kept locking brakes on the dirt and abs kicked in and it was big Scandinavian flicks into corners and booting the power to try staying on the road...eventually I had to just slow down before I ended up off the road...but it slowed down the start of stages..eventually we had to swap to a different I can imagine that at tracks with long straights and big stops that the heat will build to a point where the abs will just stop working....and the bike will disappear of into the mulga (that's an australian word for bush)
interestingly...and just as an aside...the 200sx was run in a production series and we were allowed to disconnect the ABS but it had to stay where it was but we weren't allowed to change discs which kept cracking so we had the disc frozen to some stupid degrees below o and that helped plus we "life'd" the discs and changed them regularly...I just thought it was interesting how the metallurgy changes with temperature...well specifically freezing as most wouldn't think of that.


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Hi guys, sorry for replying in such an old topic, but i got a problem with ABS removal. I really would like to keep my speedo working, does anybody know where to put resistor to make it work? Unfortunately Fasteddy haven't replied to me. Sorry for my poor English :)