Stock gearing

Rodolfo

New Member
Stock gearing should defenitely be 44t or 43t

45t is just to short for Any kind of street riding

Highly recomend changing to 44 or 43 so your engine is not so overreved all The time
 

mr-fabricator

New Member
44 works well for weekend rides , if u are a commuter possibly go the other way and try a 46 , it realy does depend on the use . And rider preference
 

morssolis

New Member
I was planning on going up in the rear for mostly city riding / tighter twisties. Engines are meant to be reved. I have not picked mine up yet, but most bikes seem to benefit from shorter gearing than that of the factory; although, I have never owned anything less than a 600. I assume everything will perform like my cbr 600rr. I got it when I was 16, beat the piss out of it for two years on the street, did 4 years of trackdays on it, and it still runs like a champ.
 

mr-fabricator

New Member
My bike did 1000k's running in on canyon roads and wouldnt have wanted shorter or taller gearing , taller would have made it slower to respond and taller would have killed top speed and id have been up and down the gear box to much .

Its now track only and for my local curcuit again the stock gearing has worked perfectly , 46 rear and i run out of revs , 44 rear and im wasting them .

Theyre not the most powerfull bike out there but u dont want to be like a motard , flat out in 6th at 80kph first 3 gears are pretty short to in the actual gear box .
 

Ryanthegreat1

New Member
I think I am going to go -2 or -4 in the rear on mine. The bike is WAY out of the power band as you approach the stock rev limited top speed.

I was finding on the track shifting around 9k would get me back into the power and net a higher top speed into the next braking zone. 100% stock bike so guys with tunes and open intakes and exhaust might pull clear to the rev limiter.
 

mr-fabricator

New Member
-4 jesus ... it will take a very long straight but youd see 170mph at that . Your choice maye but remember u have 40hp , -2 maxwould be usable .

ive always pulled clean to 10k stock or otherwise but like i say we have different needs for different tracks .

If they are available a +1 at the front woukd equal -3 at the back and you wont need a new chain .
 

Rodolfo

New Member
I tried 46, and for The street is useless way To short, trust me.

For a track, it would only work if there is a quarter mile straight, anything longer and it will top out

Now i am in a 43, and The bike feels good, but i am preatty sure it doesnt have enough power to use a 42, unless you weight 100 lbs

Maybe the lucky Number is 44, wish i was going to use, but my dealer put The 43 by mistake
 

Ryanthegreat1

New Member
-4 in the rear nets a top speed of 119-120 at the rev limiter if you can get there.

The more important number is 9200 RPM at 110mph, you are right in the peak of the power before it starts to fall off.

I would much rather go +1 on the front but no one is selling that yet.

Looking at stock bike dyno graphs the power is all from 7k to 9k and drops off fast on either side. In that range you have 23ft/lb of torque by the time you reach the 10k rev limiter torque drops off to 18ft/lbs.
 
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ryandalling

New Member
I tried 46, and for The street is useless way To short, trust me.

For a track, it would only work if there is a quarter mile straight, anything longer and it will top out

Now i am in a 43, and The bike feels good, but i am preatty sure it doesnt have enough power to use a 42, unless you weight 100 lbs

Maybe the lucky Number is 44, wish i was going to use, but my dealer put The 43 by mistake

I am on the 43 and we have a 1/2 mile straight away, I don't hit the rev limiter, but I also don't feel like it has the power to push any further. I have the 44 but practice was rained out and I didn't want to try new gearing in the race.
 

SPG

New Member
Per my GPS timer/logger, I picked up 1.5MPH when I went from a 43 to a 41. If I remember correctly, it is hitting 110-112 before turn 1 at The Ridge. This is actual speed, not what the spedo (disconnected) would be saying. The 43 and a 70 series rear tire were enough to stay out of the rev limiter, but dropping the RPMs actually improved the speed and pull compared to the other RC that I was racing with.


Surprised the heck out of me...

-Sean
 

SPG

New Member
Well, I'm not here to convince you Ryan :) Just passing on my experience.

I changed it to keep from needing to shift elsewhere on the track and ended up gaining top speed.

-Sean
 

ryandalling

New Member
Well, I'm not here to convince you Ryan :) Just passing on my experience.

I changed it to keep from needing to shift elsewhere on the track and ended up gaining top speed.

-Sean

I think we need a day with a lot of different ones to try out. I'd love to drop a tooth in front and try that rather than needing to change chain sizes at the track.
 

OldVet

New Member
I can't speak for the track but for the street, everything from super tight twistys to cruising at 80 mph the stock gearing seems to work great for me.
 

JKBC

New Member
I like the stock gearing too for street use. I stumbled upon this German website and it looks like the orange aluminum rear sprockets from the power parts catalog come in 42-46 tooth sizes and combined with the orange Z-ring chain on the next page may give these bikes some more bling.
Page Restrictor Ping Any KTM dealer should be able to get the same stuff.
That link works but 'page restrictor ping' is weird and made me check it after posting.
 
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OldVet

New Member
I've got a lot of bling on my 350 EXC-F I really hope I don't get the bug to do the same to the RC...
 

RC390 Fan

New Member
PIR has the insane long front straight. 41 sounds crazy.

Did you ever try the 44 at PIR? How'd it go? I used to race SS and 125gp there and I would love the take the RC for a club race. Also wondering what works for The Ridge near Shelton.Never been there but looks fun.
 

Bikingbagga

New Member
Country flag
-4 in the rear nets a top speed of 119-120 at the rev limiter if you can get there.

The more important number is 9200 RPM at 110mph, you are right in the peak of the power before it starts to fall off.

I would much rather go +1 on the front but no one is selling that yet.

Looking at stock bike dyno graphs the power is all from 7k to 9k and drops off fast on either side. In that range you have 23ft/lb of torque by the time you reach the 10k rev limiter torque drops off to 18ft/lbs.
Just ran my RC390R Cup Bike at AHRMA event at Thunderhill had a 45T back everyone else had a 43T. 45T did not work just ordered a 43T have Corsa 140 tire on the back. Biggest change I made when I got the bike is installing a STM slipper clutch and added the power command quick shift. I use the GP shift pattern
 
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