The Definitive ABS Removal Thread

yowsaboss

New Member
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I’ve searched extensively on this forum, the duke 390 forum, and the internet at large, but still have some questions. There is surprising little in the way of real information, other than complaints about how difficult it is to access and remove the unit itself.


Please don’t hijack this thread making an argument about the wisdom of removing the ABS. I’m not suggesting anyone should, but I am, and I want to do it properly, efficiently, and as elegantly as possible.


Street/ Track bike. I want to bypass the ABS, at least for the front. The lever feel is terrible, and others have said that it’s due to all that extra plumbing. I’m believing that’s so. It feels like a badly bled system. So simply switching the ABS off is no solution. I want to retain my Speedo/ Odo. I wouldn’t mind retaining ABS on the rear brake. I never use my rear brake other than if I inadvertently find myself off road:eek:. But if it’s not possible to bypass the front and retain the rear, no problem.


So here's what I want to accomplish-

I just want no ABS, and a functioning speedometer, no dash errors. Optimally, I'd like to lose that front ABS ring.



Please, any explanations or assistance, assume you’re talking to an 11 year old, as that’s my level of understanding of electronic/ software systems, although mechanically I’m not afraid to tackle anything.


Here’s what I think I understand. Please confirm or correct.


So because the speedo gets inputs from the ABS unit, the entire unit can’t be removed without losing the speedo function.


But if I only block off the hoses and leave the unit in place, my speedo will still work.


If I block off the hoses where they enter the ABS unit, and run houses direct to the brakes, will I get an ABS dash error?


If the answer to that question is “yes” ……


(otherwise what directly follows is irrelevant)


The simple solution is to unplug the ABS dash light. I’ve also read that you can use a resistor to “fool” the ECU so no error is detected.
What ohm resistor, and where does it go?
Since the ABS unit is in place, and plugged in, I’m assuming this resistor would need to be spliced inline into a wire that runs from the ABS to the ECU. I can find that plug, but which wire is it that requires the resistor??






Now, what if I want to lose the front ABS ring?
I’ve read that (in order to remove the front ABS ring) some people have extended the front speed sensor cable, the magnetic pickup, so it’s now getting the signal from the rear wheel. Is this possible?

What little I think I understand of ABS, it operates by measuring the differential in F/R wheel speed. So if I ran the front speed pickup to my rear wheel, then the rear ABS wouldn't work anyway, because the ECU would be fooled into thinking both wheels were at the identical speed.
Correct?



Various suggestions about using parts from the models, RC200, etc, so that the front wheel pickup can be used running off the magnetized rotor bolts. This would be the most elegant solution, if it is doable.

I'd like a solution that enables me to remove that front ring, if there is such a solution.



I basically want to know the best way to go about achieving no front (at least) ABS, while retaining my speedo and having no dash error. I’d like to know what the most elegant solution is, the solution that requires the least amount of irreversible changes to the harness, plugs, etc.


Someone out there knows this stuff. I’m hoping you’ll contribute, I can’t be the only one who wants to know about this stuff, and is slightly (!) confused.


thanks in advance!

 

m3hl

Member
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Paging Fasteddy....

He helped me with mine and it works like a dream. You need to put a resistor in the ABS to trick the computer. I have my front ABS ring to keep the speedo. I forgot the details but Fasteddy will know. Message him if he doesn't see this. Other than that you just unplug everything and re-use the lines.

36151765422_36cf9ddb6c_b.jpg
 

yowsaboss

New Member
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Paging Fasteddy....

He helped me with mine and it works like a dream. You need to put a resistor in the ABS to trick the computer. I have my front ABS ring to keep the speedo. I forgot the details but Fasteddy will know. Message him if he doesn't see this. Other than that you just unplug everything and re-use the lines.


Is that wire gray, or black/grey? My eyes are playing tricks on me.
 

yowsaboss

New Member
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2018

The part number for the front and rear sensor cables are the same-
s-l225.jpg

Does this mean I can unplug the front cable and remove it and the ring, and plug the rear cable into where the front cable was previously plugged, and thus drive my speedometer off the rear wheel?
 

yowsaboss

New Member
Country flag
2018

The part numbers for the front and rear sensor cables are the same- 90142125000
View attachment 5421


Does this mean I can remove the front cable and the ring, and plug the rear cable into where the front cable was previously plugged, and thus drive my speedometer off the rear wheel?
 

karolHRC

New Member
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Hi guys, did anyone put the resistor to avoid ABS dash error? My bike is taken apart and i don't know what to do. Which type of resistor should i use?
I found this black/white wire, but where is this other one? I've marked it in the m3hl's photo. Anyone knows where to find this one?

d5ba8d419e39365b.jpg


Greetings from Poland :)
 

Fasteddy

Member
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Sorry I have not checked in on the forum lately...
Here is my reply to Karol from Poland's PM, and Hello over there...

On the ABS unit I carefully opened up the black plastic box area that holds the circuit board where the wiring plugs into it, I then de soldered the connections from the circuit board to the ABS mechanical unit and separated the circuit board, wrapped it in electrical tape with it plugged into the wiring harness plug.

This gets the speedometer working again, to make the ABS warning light go out you connect a 270 ohm resistor from the black wire with white stripe that comes from the combo instrument, the other end of resistor (white wire in pic) is connected to ground /frame bolt.

Also you need to leave one ABS sensor and tone ring connected, on m3hl's I left the front in place.


Removing the circuit board from the ABS takes some time to do without damaging it.. Good luck and I hope it works for you.

Fasteddy
 

aardvark9

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New to the RC 390 world but I recently bought a bike that was race-prepped and the ABS disconnected. I'm trying to get the speedometer working again and clear the ABS error. I've found that the ABS module was already dissected and I've got the circuit board connected but I'm not able to locate the black w/ white stripe wire in the harness between the instrument cluster and where it attaches behind the headstock (the one where I'll attach the 270 ohm resistor). I've attached photos of both sides of that connector. I did locate a black/white wire in the ECU harness though. I was just hoping to see if anyone had any insight. This is a 2017 US model. This is the harness (disconnected) nearest the headstock. Could the color of the wire have changed in 2017 or am I looking in the wrong spot?
 

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aardvark9

New Member
Country flag
New to the RC 390 world but I recently bought a bike that was race-prepped and the ABS disconnected. I'm trying to get the speedometer working again and clear the ABS error. I've found that the ABS module was already dissected and I've got the circuit board connected but I'm not able to locate the black w/ white stripe wire in the harness between the instrument cluster and where it attaches behind the headstock (the one where I'll attach the 270 ohm resistor). I've attached photos of both sides of that connector. I did locate a black/white wire in the ECU harness though. I was just hoping to see if anyone had any insight. This is a 2017 US model. This is the harness (disconnected) nearest the headstock. Could the color of the wire have changed in 2017 or am I looking in the wrong spot?
Just received the service/repair manual and compared schematics for the ABS portion between 2015 and 2017 bikes and there were some changes and the colors and pins have changed. I'm wondering if anyone with a 2017+ bike has done the ABS disabling while retaining the speedo and without errors on the dash?
 

Formula390

Supporting Vendor
Vendor
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Just received the service/repair manual and compared schematics for the ABS portion between 2015 and 2017 bikes and there were some changes and the colors and pins have changed. I'm wondering if anyone with a 2017+ bike has done the ABS disabling while retaining the speedo and without errors on the dash?

aardvark9: Did you experiment with this and get it working?
 

aardvark9

New Member
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aardvark9: Did you experiment with this and get it working?
The best I did was to solder in the original ABS connections which resolved the 'ABS CAN Fault' warning and got it back to only 'ABS Failure'. I even went so far as to swap out the ABS electronics from another one purchased on eBay. Getting rid of the CAN Fault got the speedo working but I still have the generic ABS Failure warning. My bike has the Rottweiler fairing stay so I moved the mostly useless dash down low in the stay so I have just my RapidBike MyTune and AiM Solo in direct sight. If I saw that fault all the time directly while riding my OCD would drive me nuts.
 
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