Valve Adjustment

[micahpearlman]

Questions:

1. Can it be done with the engine in frame or does the engine need to be dropped? If in frame pics and tips and tricks would be helpful -- looks kinda tight in there...
2. What size shims are they?

 

[Fasteddy]

Questions:

1. Can it be done with the engine in frame or does the engine need to be dropped? If in frame pics and tips and tricks would be helpful -- looks kinda tight in there...
2. What size shims are they?

Can be done in frame no engine drop needed, loosen radiator and bungee out of way, same with heat shield. 10 mm dia. shims

Fasteddy

 

[DCMoney]

According to another thread its 10mm and can be done with engine still in.

http://www.rc390-forum.com/forum/engine-and-technical-discussion/273-change-oil-4.html

 

[Ryanthegreat1]

Yup can confirm. Valves can be adjusted in frame. Space is limited but can be done.

Get some flat feeler gauges and give them a slight curve at the tip. The pre-bent versions have too much of a bend in the wrong spot. Easiest way to get at the valve lash is from the outside edged of the engine and under the cam cap. This allows the feeler to follow the rocker arm to between the arm and cam.

Zip tie the cam chain to the cam gears and you can easily move one cam at a time out of the way to access the shims.

 

[Wanderlust]

Just an aside, but my bike is getting its break-in service at the dealer right now (valves are a little beyond my skill. And patience). The Book says it's 2.5 hours for the service, including the valve check... but the service guy called me near the end of the day yesterday to say the bike wasn't going to be ready yet, because it was going to take more like 5 hours to get to the valves and do the check. The service tech was swearing about it being impossible to get to the engine around all the frame bits (!!).

In fairness, my bike was the first RC390 they've had in. Yay me, being the guinea pig. But it also makes me wonder... I know there have been at least 8 RC390s sold by the 2 dealers in my state. Am I the only one dumb enough to let the dealer work on their bike?

Maybe time to learn to love to do valves.

 

[Treachery]

Nope, you're not alone. I'm not keen on the expense, but at this point, I'm trading cost for lower aggro. I figure the dealer is on the learning curve, and the time it may require beyond what the book says is part of his learning costs.

 

[TZMike]

to maintain warranty it is always best to let the dealer do that first service (IMHO). But it seems kind of lame that you have to pay for the dealer's learning curve.

 

[Ryanthegreat1]

Yeah I would rather not be the dealership's test subject.

Some about flat rate and half-assery.

No one is going to pay as much attention to the details on my bike as I am. I am not turning wrenches to make money and I have no time constraint. If it has to be done correctly I will be the one doing it.

I have had nothing but problems taking things into the dealership for work. They always find a way to mess up something or damage an unrelated part.

If I need a special tool for the job I buy it. Half the joy of owning a motorcycle for me is working on it.

 

[Wanderlust]

I got the bike back yesterday, and went over as well as I could without removing the fairings, and all seems to be as it should be (with a small exception, noted in the Electronics forum). But yeah, it was not a very confidence-inspiring experience. Next time, if I don't want to do it myself, I will trailer the bike the 65 miles to the guy who works on my BMW. I trust him completely, and the inconvenience is better than this anxiety.

FWIW, the charge for the service was per the book rate, 2.5 hours, plus filter and oil. The dealer had to absorb the difference. So I was not charged $$$ for them to learn on my bike, at least.

 

[JKBC]

The dealer told me the initial service at 1,000 km would take about 2.5 hrs. So I'm thinking they don't plan on adjusting valve clearances or even checking them. Now KTM do have that as a thing to be done at that check but they're covering their asses I suppose. So for their own good the dealer should check them but probably all brands are the same and if they don't really need to be checking and adjusting clearances of 4 valve, DOHC, 4 cylinder engines they probably don't. Maybe they just begin with a simple listening for noise from the cylinder head with something more advanced than holding a wooden hammer with an ear on one end and the cylinder head on the other of years gone by?

 

[Treachery]

Look in your manual...Pg 70-71, IIRC. Adjusting the valves is just one of the several service items listed for 600mi/1000km. I hadda poke my dealer to make sure they planned on that part when I (take) it back in. I may ask them to leave the oil off, and do that myself. I'm less likely to overfill, and less likely to over torque the various fittings. I just don't have enough profanity stored up to do the valves myself. JS.

 

[Fasteddy]

Did my valves at a bit over the 600, both exhaust were tight, one at limit , one over by .01mm, my dealer told me the first one they did and sold same time as mine had both exhaust valves tight at .11mm. Both of my intakes were at the limit, .08mm, I spoke to someone at KTM in Ohio awhile back about another issue and he repeatedly said to make sure I check the valves (he would not say if there was a known issue).

So on new bikes the initial valve adjustment after the cams wear in a bit seems pretty important.

 

[micahpearlman]

Did my valves at a bit over the 600, both exhaust were tight, one at limit , one over by .01mm, my dealer told me the first one they did and sold same time as mine had both exhaust valves tight at .11mm. Both of my intakes were at the limit, .08mm, I spoke to someone at KTM in Ohio awhile back about another issue and he repeatedly said to make sure I check the valves (he would not say if there was a known issue).

So on new bikes the initial valve adjustment after the cams wear in a bit seems pretty important.

Any pointers or gotchas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fasteddy]

I guess I will have to put together a tips and tricks... Ryanthegreat1 may have some too...

You can get the cheesee rivets on the side covers out by putting your hand in the opening by your knee for the top two and from underneath on the bottom one. parts store had better style ones to put back in that have a nib to release them next time. I plan on nut expansion rivets when I do it again.

Unplug ABS modulator, bail type connector lock goes to the right.

RH wiring from combo inst etc. unsnaps from frame and hang out of way.

remove coil, thread bolt with ground back in so you don't lose star washer and it hangs away

unplug all connections on throttle body to get heat shield out of way, only had to cut two wire ties that hold it, then brought it up and bungee corded it around battery box to keep everything out of the way.

pull spark plug, and use crank bolt under LH assess plug to roll to TDC, shop manual says to put in high gear and rotate wheel - DERP

Other then being dang tight working quarters about the same as a YZF600R minus three cylinders...

 

[Ryanthegreat1]

I took the rubber diaper out all the way.

I did not remove the coil just the spark plug wire and pulled it out of the way.

I did remove the bolts from the radiator to allow it to be moved out of the way as needed.

Left the battery box in place and just let it float and move as needed.

A socket extension in the 14" range will allow you to reach in from above and tighten the cam cap and valve cover bolts.

If you have never done valves before and don't know the feel of feeler gauges use a go no-go method. For example a 0.05mm will fit and 0.06mm will not fit.

Shims are not exactly the size they are advertised use this to get closer to the desired clearances. Requires a micrometer. There are some inexpensive digital versions out there that are more than accurate enough for the job.

Don't forget to release the tension on the cam chain. And then retension the chain when done.

All that plus what Fasteddy said.

I think I posted before, about 3 hours to do the adjustment taking my time.

 

[Fasteddy]

Thanks!
I new there were things I would forget, Did you put the 'rubber diaper' aka heat shield back in?

 

[Ryanthegreat1]

Thanks!
I new there were things I would forget, Did you put the 'rubber diaper' aka heat shield back in?

Yeah I put it back. Figure it must be there for a reason.

Now that evap canister on the other hand....

 

[Fasteddy]

Yeah I put it back. Figure it must be there for a reason.

Now that evap canister on the other hand....

Ah yes the vapor recovery system.... I just put it back, call me a tree hugger .....

 

[RC_AB]

Can you get to them from the side? or does the tank have to come off? (and the battery holder area) like most bikes.

 

[Formula390]

That initial check is important! Make sure you insist it's done as part of the initial servicing as called for in the manual. You can be virtually certain some will be tight at the first service, so you wouldn't hear any tapping (loose) so an audio check would be completely pointless. If you don't have experience checking your valves, don't worry. You can do it! I suppose I could make a YouTube video of the process when I do mine...