Valve Clearance Adjustment Tips and Records

[fostytou]

I thought I'd start a thread where we can post some tips for checking the valve clearance I may also do a quick step-by-step in the second post. Lastly, if anyone wants to share their measurements and adjustments I'd welcome them in this thread so we can get an idea of what they take.


Tips:

1. It is kind of a pain in the bike - there's barely any room to turn wrenches. Having a variety of bits (eg: tall 8mm, short 8mm, wobble bits) will help.
   1. That said - taking it out is probably more difficult unless you really need to do something extra.
2. The newer FSM recommends blowing out the oil jets in the cam bridge with compressed air. You can see these little nozzles pointing at each lobe. I'd probably recommend spraying into their outlet so anything plugging the hole (eg - all those metal bits in your oil screens) will get dislodged. This may be messy though.
3. The rubber engine cover is not on the cup bike. It can go. If you do need to unhook instead of cutting it the trickiest part is at the front where you can use a long, small screwdriver to push it over it's flat hooks.
4. It has been said before - the metal in these bikes can be putty. Oil covered fasteners and tight working spaces don't help. If you can't move your torque wrench freely you may have to add in a little feel from one of the fasteners where you can.
5. I would totally recommend getting rid of the charcoal canister - even if you keep and cap the solenoid to prevent a CEL (or use a 15 ohm 10 W resister according to some threads). You can use the existing tank vent and Y to tie into the other Y for fuel and coolant. You'll need a vacuum cap for the throttle body.
   1. I wasted 2 hours trying to put the left fairing back on without crushing the wiring harness behind it or flexing the panel. I' went back and referred to the owner's manual for hose routing and it only helped a little bit.
6. The manual illustrates a bead of threebond that is about as wide as a tooth pick. You don't need much, but lining up the valve cover and propping up the cam gear side while you apply threebond to the head can keep things a little more clean. I applied it with a tooth pick to help my reach. (yes, you are supposed to put three bond on both surfaces but I think it will be fine.)
7. I did the valve adjustment, checked the bike, and then did the oil change. I figure running it will clean up any minor dirt in there and then I can drain the gunk out in the oil right away.
8. There are probably a lot of ways to do certain things, but I picked what seemed easiest to me.

My measurements and adjustments:

 

[fostytou]

Due to the 10,000 char limit (wow, this was long!) I've put this all in an RTF doc here: http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/randomforumstuff/RC390/valve_walkthrough/Valve Check Guide 0.8.rtf
(I will likely update this link rather than these posts if I have updates)

I also put a helpful common torque spec sheet that I made here:

http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/randomforumstuff/RC390/valve_walkthrough/RC390%20Common%20Torque%20Specs.xlsx

Basic Step-by-step how to:

Just going mostly from memory here but I may add to it. Some of the basic tools are available in your tool kit but you will be much happier with them on a T-handle.

Stuff you will need:

1. 8mm socket - short and tall
2. 10mm socket
3. 10mm box wrench
4. 12mm socket
5. 4mm Allen socket (I used long and short)
6. 5MM Allen socket
7. Small screwdrivers
8. A 2.4 mm eyeglass flathead (timing tensioner - helps it to be short, very thin, and small)
9. Feeler gauges (.04 - .30 or more)
10. 6mm allen - an actual allen not a socket for getting the timing display cover off.
11. 13mm and 18mm socket wrench - for the oil change
12. Needle nose pliers / hose clamp pliers.
13. ThreeBond or equivalent sealant
14. Pencil and paper for measurements

Stuff you may want:

If you need adjustment:

1. Definitely a torque wrench with very low torque values
2. Hot Cams HCSHIM31 Complete Valve Shim Kit ($50-75) - makes it so you don't have to go to a dealer to try to trade with the motor apart.
3. Timing tensioner gasket. It was a pain in the butt to use make-a-gasket on this and mine was really stuck to both sides at 680 miles.
4. String, zip ties, or safety wire
5. Magnet on a rod

1. The full oil change kit with oil plugs, screens, o-rings and filters. I found it fairly easy to clean my filters with brake clean
   1. Brake clean - if you don't get the kit or want to have it as a just in case backup
2. 14mm thin wall spark plug wrench. The stock one sucks and this size may not be as common in the US.
3. 14mm allen wrench (for loosening the crank cover on the left side of the bike)
4. 3mm , long wobble allen wrench (for intake clamps)
5. A pick always helps in weird situations
6. End cutters and wire cutters for zip ties
7. A spade connector and DC car adapter for putting on the ACC wire while it is easily accessible. Adding a phone charger is trivial when you are this deep in the bike.
8. Compressed air to blow out the filter screens and cam bridge oil jets

Preparation:
An empty gas tank will make things easier. Have some towels handy for setting fairings on and protecting things.


Procedure:

Removing Bodywork / getting access

1. Put the bike on a stand. Front stand not needed but may keep oil in and help stabilize.
2. Remove fairings. Start with the right - it is easier.
   1. Right Fairing
      1. Remove the 3 plastic push-pins on the radiator guard. Use a 3mm wrench or poking device to push in the center and the whole 2 pieces will then easily pop out. Put the center pin out to seat the push-pin and then push in the center to secure it.
      2. Remove the 2 x 4mm Allen bolts along the top front. IIRC the shorter one goes in the "middle" of the fairing and the long one in front but make note.
      3. Remove the 3x 5mm Allen bolts along the rear. Do the lower one last as this part of the fairing is sitting on a grommet / post.
      4. Gently pull the bottom of the upper fairing while holding the lower fairing behind it to pop out this fastener from it's grommet. Don't break it!
      5. Unhook the turn signal harness.
      6. Set the fairing somewhere safe where it won't get scratched.
   2. Left Fairing
      1. Remove the 3 plastic push-pins on the radiator guard. Use a 3mm wrench or poking device to push in the center and the whole 2 pieces will then easily pop out. Put the center pin out to seat the push-pin and then push in the center to secure it.
      2. Remove the 2 x 4mm Allen bolts along the top front. IIRC the shorter one goes in the "middle" of the fairing and the long one in front but make note.
      3. Remove the 3x 5mm Allen bolts along the rear. Do the lower one last as this part of the fairing is sitting on a grommet / post.
      4. Gently pull the bottom of the upper fairing while holding the lower fairing behind it to pop out this fastener from it's grommet. Don't break it!
      5. Struggle to hold the fairing while the emissions hoses try to pull it towards the bike and scratch your paint with their clamps
         1. A second person helps here but you can also "turn" the fairing if you have something soft to set the nose on or try to hold it up with your knee.
      6. Pay close attention to the hose routing if you plan to put it back. Consider taking a picture or 3. Include where the hose goes down the fairing and into the belly pan.
      7. Undo the rubber band holding the charcoal canister and remove both - don't lose the rubber washers on the bracket.
      8. Work the drain hose up through its grommet. I removed the vent hose from it's Y connector. and left it on the fairing so it's "plug" wouldn't scratch things. It might be easier to just pull off the lower clamp and slide it through though.
      9. Remove the hose from the emissions solenoid mounted to the frame. It slides off of this easily since it is not barbed.
      10. Unhook the turn signal harness.
      11. Set the fairing somewhere safe where it won't get scratched.
3. Remove gas tank
   1. Remove your front seat (if you didn't already)
   2. Use the pull cord to remove your battery cover
   3. Loosen the bolts around the gas fill. Now, insert your key and unlock the gas fill so you can remove it and set it aside.
   4. Remove the 2 x 4mm Allen on each side of the front of the tank cover
   5. Remove the seat bolts that hold the rear of the tank.
   6. Lift the tank cover out of the way and place your gas fill back on so you don't drop anything in it or get fumed out.
   7. Remove your battery (2x 8mm + strap) - Negative side first obviously.
   8. Optional - remove the starter cable from it's solenoid. This really helped me get the battery box out of the way and I couldn't get the gas tank off without doing it.
      1. Loosen the 8mm nut on the black cable leading to the big solenoid on the back right of the battery box.
      2. I also loosened the 2 + 2 + 1 x 4mm Allen bolts in the battery tray to allow the plastic to lift up so I could push this cable out of the battery box a bit
      3. Lift up the plastic and give some extra slack on that cable.
   9. Remove the 4mm Allen bolt at the front of the battery tray
   10. Remove the ECU harness (2016- I think) or whole ECU bracket (2017+).
       1. For 2017 I un-clamped the wire clamp from where it is stuck in the tank just below the ECU. Catch the hidden side of the clip with the hole and then push the other side with a small screw driver so you can push it out and re-use it.
       2. Then, take off the 4 x 4mm Allen bolts and hang the ECU off the left side of the bike (or disconnect the harness).

Continued below (10,000 char limit)

 

[fostytou]

Starting back at 11....

1. 1. Remove the 2x 12mm nuts at the rear of the battery tray.
      1. The left side of the battery tray is well trapped with the main harness and doesn't really want to move.
   2. Remove the 2 nuts at the back of the tank (10 or 12mm).
      1. Set a towel or cardboard on the tank here now so you don't scratch the paint on the frame.
   3. Now you are going to lift the tank slightly to access the underside.
   4. Lift it off the front first taking care to not lose the inserts in the gas tank grommet or the inserts on the battery tray.
   5. Remove the fuel line by disconnecting it (old) or pressing the green button and lightly twisting while holding the fuel filter - it should pull very easily but can be hard to push the button at the same time and hold everything.
      1. It would be good to have your bike off for a while to let pressure bleed off and wrap a rag around the line as you disconnect it to protect stuff under it and your eyes.
      2. Benzene sucks, wear thick gloves.
   6. Undo the hose clamp and remove the emissions line, the overflow line, and then unclip the fuel pump / sending unit connector
      1. This is not the 3 clamps but is just one clamp facing the other direction. You lift it to get it to release but take great care to not break it. It seems fragile. You can use a pic to help gently lift it. The connector will be slightly tough to pull apart at first and then very easy.
      2. Lift the tank out and set it aside. If it is empty great - have the filter pointing up so it doesn't drip fuel
2. Remove connectors and rubber engine cover
   1. Remove the emissions hose going into the throttle body, the injector clip, and the drive by wire / butterfly harness (2017+ at least).
   2. I don't see how you could do this with the rubber cover halfway in. I was going to put mine back on but honestly I think it probably makes the already hot running motor hotter and left it off after carefully removing it.
   3. There are ~4 zip ties holding the front "wings" and rear of the rubber piece on. Once you've removed these you can use a thing long screwdriver to push it forward over it's hooks at the front.
   4. Pay attention to where zip ties are as you are removing them. Any that are holding a harness somewhere should be replaced.
   5. As part of this process remove the ignition wire. There was a very specific way I had to put mine to get it out (top towards right rear) and I didn't like how much I had to pull it. Consider loosening the coil.
      1. I dropped the wire out the right side of the frame for more room to work.
3. If your engine is really dirty now is probably the time to give the area a quick wipe down. Don't drop dirt in your motor.
4. Unhook the emissions solenoid wires and slide it off its mount. with it's hose. Don't lose it's rubber mount.
5. Remove the valve cover vent - unclamp and slide off.
6. Grab the plastic bracket on the right side of the bike in front of the rectifier and pull straight out. It clamps on 2 frame bars and can hang there.
7. I had to loosen the 2 bracket bolts on the rectifier to get it out of the way when it actually came time to adjust. That may make removing things easier as well.
8. If you have ABS - unlatch the ABS harness by moving the latch from left to right and sliding the cable at the same time (or you probably can't get the valve cover off).

Checking the Valve Clearance:

1. Remove the 4 x valve cover bolts
2. Remove the timing inspection cover (left side of the engine facing up)
3. Remove the 14mm Allen plastic crank cover on the left side. Some oil will probably drip out from here.
4. Optional: remove the spark plug (14mm deep / thin)
   1. Sometimes there's a weird rubber thing on the porcelain that makes this hard.
   2. I don't like reseating spark plugs so I left mine (plus I didn't have the wrench). If you do that you probably don't want to work the motor much from the crank bolt. You can use the rear wheel for this
   3. Not removing the spark plug will make it slightly more difficult to tell if you have a valve impacting a piston since you will be fighting resistance of the motor compression after reassembly.
5. Optional: put the bike in the highest gear. Use the wheel to turn the crank by turning it as if you were riding. It will be difficult if the spark plug is in due to compression but the decompression device helps.
6. Remove the valve cover by lifting the gear side up and finagling it up out of the frame on it's side
7. Use the crank or the wheel to line up the motor to Top Dead Center (TDC).
   1. To do this you line up the crank and cams.
   2. If the cams are lined up the crank will be close.
   3. Using the wheel it would always stop just short of the gears lining up and was not difficult to use the crank to get the last bit perfect (eg: I was not worried about loosening that bolt)
   4. Insert a 14mm deep / thin socket onto the crank bolt and turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE until you see the arrow pointing in the direction you are going, the T, and rest with the small arrow pointing straight at the line.
   5. You are at TDC when this line is at the arrow.
8. Grab your feeler gauge and start checking!
9. It is easiest to check the intake first. Start with a .08 mm feeler to see if you are in range. Work your way up or down as needed.
10. For the left valve slide your feeler between the cam lobe and finger follower (FF) on top of the valve. Record your gap on your sheet.
11. For the right valve slide your feeler under the bridge and between the cam lobe and finger follower (FF) on top of the valve. Record your gap on your sheet.
12. The exhaust are more difficult inside the bike. You need to make absolutely sure you are between the lobe and the finger follower if you are coming from the middle! Using something to guide your feeler in can help, but remember this will also change the resistance since you are pulling against more surface area on the lobe / bends.
13. Start with a .13 mm feeler to see if you are in range. Work your way up or down as needed.
14. For the left valve I came in at an angle and then turned the feeler straight on with it. Make sure you aren't off to the side. Record your gap on your sheet.
15. For the right valve I was lucky my feelers were slightly bent already (they also sell them like that). You could try to use a finger to get under it if needed. Record your gap on your sheet.
    1. Move the decompression device to the side as you check to make sure it does not interfere.

The ranges are...

The old values (2017-) were:

Intake: 0.08-0.12mm

Exhaust: 0.13-0.17mm





The new values (2018+, or all) are:

Intake: 0.10-0.15mm

Exhaust: 0.15-0.20mm



See this thread for more info: https://www.rc390-forum.com/threads...ecifications-for-2018-and-earlier-models.3573



Are your values in spec? Is it your lucky day? If not....

 

[fostytou]

Adjusting the Valve Clearance:

• As they say - tappy valves are happy valves. That said - a valve that doesn't open as much may make ever so marginally less power. A valve that is burned from not having a gap will put you on the side of the road and require motor disassembly. If you are adjusting for longevity - middle of the range to big gap is good. If you are rebuilding regularly for racing - tight is good.
• Gap is measured by feel. You may be able to get too big of a feeler in. The amount of drag should feel like a knife through soft butter... not much resistance at all.

1. With your engine still at TDC take a ton of pictures. Level with the top of the head and of the lines on each cam is GREAT. You are going to second guess a million times if you don't do this because you can probably tell these lines don't sit perfectly.
2. I decided to mark the chain position. I marked both bulges on the chain with a mark on the gear somewhere easy to spot. This just makes putting the cams back in slightly easier.
   1. Clean off oil and use black sharpie for this. If oil is on it the marks may be easy to rub off.
   2. Take note - it is fairly easy to move the chain on the crank - thus making these marks only a reference. If you are facing the right side of the bike it is very easy to move the chain clockwise once it is off the cam gears - keeping it taught on the crank teeth by pulling it up will help.
3. Take more pictures. You probably didn't take enough pictures. Make sure they are well lit. Consider taking a video of the location of everything. Then take more pictures so you can line everything up just right. Then take a couple more just in case.
4. Remove the spark plug tube. It just pulls up but it can be a bear. Twisting can help.
5. Remove the timing tensioner.
   1. Remove the 10mm release cover in the center (or at least break it loose).
   2. I couldn't get mine to latch with the release in situ.
      1. This is such a bad design in so many small ways. You only get about 1mm of tension on the chain (new chain) from fully backed out. If it would lock there maybe you could do it in situ.
      2. Take note of the orientation. The letters should be right side up. If you forget you can also look at the tensioner piston which has its flat edge on the same plane as the timing chain.
      3. Since it doesn't... start to undo the the 8mm bolts. A box wrench will help.
         1. Curse a whole bunch because the further bolt is exactly behind the end of the electronic throttle body. (for me at least)
         2. Use a long 3mm Allen wobble wrench to loosen the 2 worm clamps on the throttle body so you can try to fight it a little while the bolt comes out (note, the rubber on these has locators to keep them in the correct spot - don't smash them).
         3. Push and pry on the throttle body with your hands while you take out the far bolt. Leaving the closer bolt fastened may help take pressure off so you can use your fingers on the rear bolt.
      4. Loosen and remove both bolts. Watch as your gasket shreds itself. Set the tensioner somewhere safe.
6. You need to make sure the chain doesn't drop in. To secure the chain I used some strong, thin string. I made a full loop of it that could sit taught holding the chain to the right battery box standoff. With the gears out I could simply stretch one end of it to the other standoff and keep tension on the chain to prevent it from slipping on the crank (and making it harder to decipher my cam markings). If not you will simply secure the chain as you remove the first or second cam.
7. Remove the cam bridge 8 x 8mm bolts
   1. Always criss cross and outside to inside when loosening.
   2. Ideally you want to do this in stages. ~ 1/2 turn on all bolts, a couple turns, then back them out as you see fit if there isn't any pressure on them.
   3. Keep the bolts in order just in case. It is nice to have a clean plastic lined box to set all of these pieces in where you can protect them and their order.
8. Remove the cam bridge. DON'T lose the dowels that sit between it and the head. Often they will just stay in the head in the front right and rear left fastener holes. You may need to pry slightly and evenly from both ends to get this up but use a non-marring pry bar if you do and ideally just use your hands to lift.
9. Remove your cams 1 by 1 and set them in your protected zone. Intake is probably easiest first - making sure the chain is secured.
10. As mentioned, keep the chain taught as you remove the exhaust to help with lining things up later.
11. It may be easier to keep them in order, but you can always tell the exhaust cam by the decompression device.
12. Replace each valve shim as necessary. Measure any extras that don't need replacement if you'd like
    1. Take note of which side is up by the scoring on the shim. the lower side of mine had a chamfer from the valve seat.
    2. Lift the finger follower, use a magnet rod to pull the shim out.
    3. Use your micrometer to measure it. I prefer a nice one, but even the harbor freight one will do: https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-micrometer-63647.html
    4. Record the shim measurement under your clearance measurement.
    5. Calculate the new shim size you need. The calculation is:
       1. Current Shim Diameter - (Expected gap - Measured gap) = New Shim Diameter. You may have to find one in the kit that is not dead center, but this is OK as long as you are in range.
       2. Also, take note about the hot cams kit - these do not have a chamfer so I expect the gap will go up slightly with them as the motor machines the parts together.
    6. After selecting the correct shim, measure it with your micrometer to verify reality meets expectations. Put the new shim's measurement on your sheet.
    7. Put the shim onto the valve retainer using your magnet to place it and then sliding the magnet off to the side so you don't drop anything.
13. While we're here - clean the cam lobe sprayers in the bridge as recommended. Blow air into the nozzle (opposite oil flow) to dislodge anything that might be blocking it.
    1. This is probably messy. Take suitable precaution.

Yay! Ready to start putting things back together?!

1. Gently put your cams back into the chain - trying to keep some tension so it doesn't slip on the crank and lining up your marks to keep things easy.
   1. Exhaust cam first, then intake cam was easiest for me.
2. Gently stick your finger in the tensioner hole (if you press firmly the non-secured cams will start to lift). Do your cams look like they are in the right spot according to pictures? Marks line up?
   1. Oh, the chain slipped on the crank? Refer to your thousand pictures and get things looking like they should when you put tension on the chain. You can possibly use your marks to still get the correct spacing on the chain between the cams so at least 2/3 of the points are lined up.
3. If you feel necessary - put a small amount of oil or assembly lube on your cams above each journal.
4. Once everything is lined up set your cam bridge on *without the bolts*.
   1. You are going to want to get it slightly seated on the dowels (hopefully they are still in there). You should be able to press it slightly but firmly with your hand to apply even pressure and slide it on part of the way.
5. Ideally - clean the oil off of your bolts.
6. Now put your bolts in each of their holes. Tighten inside to outside in a criss cross fashion in stages. Just a little pressure, then more, then more so the bridge slides down evenly.
7. Tighten the bolts to 10Nm / 7.4 lbft / 88.8 inlb
   1. I use in/lb for all of this stuff. The manual actually lowered to this value in later years.
   2. I'd actually recommend doing ~50-60 inlb first, then going back and tightening. Clearance really sucks here so if you are pretty sure the wrench should've clicked trust your gut. If you don't have a smooth swing many tq wrenches will not reach their clickover on a lubricated bolt and these have been known to strip.
8. Once the bridge is tightened - check your alignment again. Press your finger in the tensioner hole (you can press harder now) and make sure everything looks like you expect with the cam markings where they were when you started. Nothing should've moved your crank but look in the inspection hole and make sure the line is still lined up at TDC anyway.
9. Affix the tensioner
   1. Replace the gasket on your tensioner as needed (probably)
   2. Use your eyeglass screwdriver to screw *clockwise* on the tensioner. When it is all the way back it should lock (it is easy to trip this lock).
   3. Slide the tensioner in. Tight the closer bolt until the tensioner is close, then fight the rear bolt to get it fully seated behind the butterfly actuator.
   4. Torque the closer bolt to 12 Nm / 8.9 lbft / 106.8 inlb. Make your best guess on the rear - you aren't getting a torque wrench back there.
   5. Stick your flat head back in the tensioner and turn it slightly counter clockwise. It will unlatch and spring open.
   6. Tighten the tensioner release cover bolt to 52.8 inlb (or less - its on rubber).
10. Check again - does everything look right on the cam markings vs your pictures? Is the crank still at the TDC line?
11. Time to get proud. Rotate the motor through 2-4 revolutions, set it back to TDC, and check your clearances again. Record them on your sheet for future reference. Are they still good? Yay! Pat on the back. Time to keep going (if not, time to adjust again).
12. Tighten the clamps on the throttle body. Make sure they are indexed on their rubber fingers and tighten to the clamp stops, but not too tight (they are small fasteners after all).
13. Put your spark plug tube back in. It may help to lubricate it but the bottom (longer part) should be chamfered. Press firmly.

 

[fostytou]

Putting it back together:

1. Clean off any ThreeBond residue from the head and the valve cover gasket. Clean off any oil from either gasket surface as well.
2. Make sure your valve cover gasket is seated on the valve cover. Slide it back in the opposite of removal. Make sure it seats.
3. If everything looks good lift just the gear side up and prop it up if you need to. Add a toothpick thick (a little more won't hurt too much) line in each of the half circles on the head and just over each side. Don't get the stuff anywhere it is terrible to clean. Use a toothpick for controlled application.
4. Lift up and drop the valve cover straight on the head being careful to line up the half circles on the gasket with the head. Make sure the inner lip of the gasket isn't caught and that the gasket is proud on both edges as you set it on.
   1. Ideally this should cure for 24 hours before oil exposure, but it is probably OK by the time you put everything else back together.
5. Tighten the 4x valve cover bolts to 12 Nm / 8.9 lbft / 106.8 inlb.
6. If you loosened it replace the spark plug and tighten to 15 Nm / 11 lbft / 133 inlb.
7. Plug in the ABS connector
8. Seat the spark plug wire/boot
9. Put the valve cover breather hose back on
10. Tighten the crank rotation cover to 10 Nm 7.4 ftlb 88.8 inlb *MAYBE*
    1. I actually just lightly seated this since it is plastic. Clean up any oil first and make sure you haven't lost the O-ring.
11. Tighten the timing inspection bolt to 10 Nm 7.4 ftlb 88.8 inlb .
12. Insert the injector connector and electronic throttle body control connectors.
13. Delete your carbon canister here with a nipple on the intake and routing the hose into the other existing Y or start to replace the items: Fuel tank vent to Y, hose from solenoid to intake nipple, mount the solenoid.
14. Set a towel down so you don't scratch stuff and stage your gas tank. Connect the fuel line, electrical connector (make sure it is oriented correctly!), fuel tank vent, and overflow tube. Set your gas tank in place making sure the cable for the battery cover is not kinked. It will sit on the rear tank cover mount with the cable inside and the bracket indexed on a small notch on the outside.
    1. Make sure the inserts are in the fuel tank grommet.
15. Lightly fix the rear bolts for the gas tank so it doesn't fall on accident.
16. If you removed it - put the battery cable for the starter back in place on the battery tray and solenoid and tighten it's nut. Cover it with it's boot - that's big amps!
17. Seat the battery box making sure you haven't kinked that starter cable and everything is sitting nicely. Replace the two metal spacers and tighten down the 12mm nuts lightly. Tighten the front 4mm allen bolt, then seat the nuts to 16 Nm 11.8 ftlb 141.6 inlb
18. Tighten the 5 screws that hold the plastic part of the battery box back down if you removed them.
19. Tighten the rear fuel tank bolts to 16 Nm 11.8 ftlb 141.6 inlb
20. Slide the battery in place and secure it's strap. Connect the battery if you are going to start the bike.
21. Tighten down the rectifier bracket if you removed it and angle the item you pulled off the right side correctly and press it back into place.

Now is a good time to start the bike and make sure it runs normally. You can also warm it up for your pending oil change.

1. Remove your gas tank filler again (don't loose the bolts!)
2. Set the gas tank cover in place. Locate the filler cover and tighten its bolts lightly in a criss-cross fashion: 5 Nm 3.7 ftlb 44.4 inlb
3. LIGHTLY tighten the rear gas tank cover bolts making sure the shoulder lands inside of the plastic so you don't crack it: 6 Nm 4.4 ftlb 52.8 inlb
4. Lightly tighten the two front 4mm allen bolts for the tank

Now is probably a good time for an oil change. Do the fairings while your oil is draining if you want.



Right fairing:

1. Connect the turn signal connector
2. Slide the fairing grommet onto the proud pin for the rear-mid/lower bolt
3. Slide the front of the fairing into place
4. Insert the fairing push-in on the bottom onto the lower fairing to keep things in place. Hold the fairing to make sure it doesn't slip off and break.
5. Tighten the first 5mm Allen bolt into the grommet hole you lined up. Leave it slightly loose.
6. Make sure the upper bolts here go where they are supposed to on the gas tank so you do not crack it. Tighten these 2 x 5mm Allen and finish tightening the first.
7. Tighten your front 2 x 4mm allen bolts. Short in the mid section, long all the way at the front.
8. Put in your 3x plastic push=ins into the radiator guard. Remember, center of the pin out, then push it level to secure once seated.

Left fairing:

1. If you thought a friend would help before - they probably really will if you kept your charcoal canister.
2. Route your hoses as they were. The long hose goes into the front of the belly pan in front of the small ridge.
3. Put the charcoal canister in place making sure you didn't lose the rubber mounts on the bracket. Secure it over the middle section with it's strap.
4. Loop the line from the canister to the solenoid under the bigger line (yeah, its weird) and fix it's clamp.
5. Ideally, make sure no clamps will rub your paint right now.
6. Connect the emissions hose to it's Y after you make sure the fairing will seat.
7. Connect the turn signal connector - make sure this wire doesn't get pinched when you put things together.
8. Slide the fairing grommet onto the proud pin for the rear-mid/lower bolt
9. Slide the front of the fairing into place
10. Insert the fairing push-in on the bottom onto the lower fairing to keep things in place. Hold the fairing to make sure it doesn't slip off and break.
11. Tighten the first 5mm Allen bolt into the grommet hole you lined up. Leave it slightly loose.
12. Make sure the upper bolts here go where they are supposed to on the gas tank so you do not crack it. Tighten these 2 x 5mm Allen and finish tightening the first.
13. Tighten your front 2 x 4mm allen bolts. Short in the mid section, long all the way at the front.
14. Put in your 3x plastic push=ins into the radiator guard. Remember, center of the pin out, then push it level to secure once seated.

Thanks for reading! Any corrections or additions are welcome.

 

[fostytou]

It appears in my searches I missed this existing thread (a bit dead though) of tips for the valve adjustment. No guide though.

https://www.rc390-forum.com/threads/valve-adjustment.373/

There's also an evernote guide for the duke (linked in my hosted document) but I'm not a fan of some of his techniques. He has incorrect measurements and flushes his radiator with a hose :^/ . He does have some pretty good pictures to reference though!

 

[fostytou]

I'm not sure there's a more appropriate place for it... so if anyone would like to see the decompression device from the cam in movement here ya go:

 

[Xquzme]

The detail in this post is awesome. Thanks for taking time to post this. I found it useful when adjusting the valves on my son 2016 KTM 390 RC.