An interesting thread.
As a counter-point, I have not experienced a single issue with my bike (6200+ miles), though I have done all of the maintenance myself.
Luck of the draw, perhaps.
I've run Mobil 1 4T Racing 10W-40 during two of my oil changes and Yamalube 15w-50 during two more, after the break-in period. (Can't get the Motorex 15W-50 here.)
I wouldn't hesitate to use the Amsoil as it meets the JASO MA/MA2 specs and your main concern is the wet clutch.
Give it a shot...
Probably the option that is at the top of my list, however, I like to research all options and wasn't able to find any videos or manuals related to the AutoTune installation on the RC390.
Has anyone installed the AutoTune for PowerCommander V on their RC 390?
Is the PCV w/ AT-200 the correct kit?
Looking for more information on the installation procedures for the AutoTune on this bike.
Does the O2 sensor need drilling/welding or is it a stock fit?
Equivalents for the original spark plug are not obvious and you end up matching thread size/depth, heat range and electrode length to find replacements.
The original plug is:
Bosch VR 5 NE
V = M12x1.25
R = resistor
5 = heat range
N = 26.5 mm thread depth, 4mm electrode length
E =...
If the bike runs fine then why berate the person you bought it from or why even buy such a bike to begin with if it's such a "bad" thing to have changed the oil @ 1000 miles?
The difference in engine life / power / performance will be negligible if any at all.
Sure, it's better to change the...
Since beating dead horses is so much fun...
Both the 20 and 1200 mile bikes are RC 390s.
Would differences be found if the engines were torn down and examined in greater detail... perhaps, but until a report of a ruined engine appears its probably not worth the trouble.
The screens and...
It's subjective. I know guys that change it at 20 miles and guys that have left it in for 1200+ miles, no noticeable difference in the engine output or performance.
It's tough - but trusting that the engineers know there are metal shavings and gasket material left over from the manufacturing...
The liters and quarts numbers listed in the manual are often mixed up and result in an overfill of oil
1.6L w/o filter
1.8L w/ filter
1.7Quarts w/o filter
1.9Quarts w/ filter
200 ml more w/ filter
.2 quarts more w/ filter
Of course it's best to check with the bike warmed up instead of just...
Par for the course for this bike, most of the time there will be one or two long metal shavings also and a bunch of excess gasket material/rubber but it all clears up rather quickly after the first change or two.
Wow, twice now I've discovered a dead bird in the belly pan of my bike whilst changing the oil and some feathers caught in my footpeg...
I'll spare ya'll the pictures but dang them little buggers (swallows and sparrows) are hard to avoid.
I mean they swoop and swerve in front of ya and...
In no particular order, I've found these things to eliminate a lot of the vibration people complain about:
1.) Change the oil (too much oil seems to contribute to vibrations)
2.) Lube the axles/bearings
3.) Adjust/Check the exhaust valve clearances
4.) Tighten/Adjust chain tension
5.) New...
105 mph, close to empty gas tank, laying on the gas tank, freshly lubed chain, oil changed and new rear tire, wind at my back...
Probably took close to 1 mile wasn't really paying attention but it was quite a distance.
Refining my technique can probably get it a little higher in a shorter...
Did they try replacing the wiring harness?
Basic troubleshooting would dictate that they replace each electrical component until the bike behaves.
Though I don't know if KTM has wiring harness testers or not, but each sensor (temperature, voltage, etc...) and each electrical part should be...
Anybody get more than 5k on the stock tires?
My rear tire is showing cords after a little more than 5k and needs to be changed. Kept 'em @ 29psi the whole time.
Manual says Metzler Sportec M5 (which most places are out of stock) but mine came with Pirelli Diablo Rosso II so that's what...