Rexbo
Member
Of note: the t-rex case protectors WILL DRAG on the left side when you crank the bike over in turns. Fear not, they clearance themselves pretty quickly
Of note: the t-rex case protectors WILL DRAG on the left side when you crank the bike over in turns. Fear not, they clearance themselves pretty quickly
Of note: the t-rex case protectors WILL DRAG on the left side when you crank the bike over in turns. Fear not, they clearance themselves pretty quickly
I started on the installation of my T-Rex sliders last night. They are really nice - heavy, well-machined, great fitment.
The instructions had me reroute the clutch cable to the inside of the silver Y-shaped engine bracket. I don't know if this factors into the clearance issue some people are having with the tab on the inside of the right fairing. I didn't get to reinstalling the fairings last night, but I can follow-up when I do if anyone is interested.
I'm not finding a reliable figure for the engine bolt torque specs. Does anyone know what the specs are? I've got a repair manual on order, which might have the answers, but I will probably want to have her buttoned back up before that arrives. Thanks.
Huh. It's been a while but I don't recall having much of an issue rerouting the clutch cable. I did have to trim a bit of plastic on the inside of the fairing though, as I think I described earlier in this thread.
I have the torque specs but not on this computer and I'm on travel for the week. If nobody posts them by the time I get home I'll take a look.
As to the torque specs, I didn't use them. That sounds stupid, as I'm a stickler on that, but the figure seemed high, and while I was doing the install, it felt too tight. I corresponded with T-Rex, and they were stunned at the figure. I used blue Loctite, and went (by my calibrated hands) to pretty snug. I didn't trust that spec going into the engine case or with the different bolts used. That's a long discussion, I know, and I have the specs somewhere at the house, so if you want them as a starting point, PM me and I'll try to look them up for you tonight. Somebody else will probably chime in by then.
I believe the paint thickness was the real problem here.
The threads in the hub are in perfect shape. I even cleaned the aluminum out of the threads on the stud. All fine now.
Treachery, I'm with you! My method for torquing fasteners on the 390 is similar to yours. No one can argue with torque wrenches as the correct, contentional way to set fasteners. But using a torque wrench relies on certain assumptions: That both the threaded part and the bolt are known qualities, standard. consistent metallurgy, tested hardness. With a budget bike built in a developing industry, with maximum cost-cutting (eg, lowest-bidder fasteners, fan, etc), I don't think the conventional assumptions about part/thread strength can uniformly apply, any more than assumptions about consistency of strength/hardness. I think that in the 390's manufacturing environment there is considerably more variability in quality/strength/hardness/finish than in more evolved/advanced/experienced industrial countries. Therefore, I distrust the KTM manual's torque specs. Probably like you, it has taken me years of wrenching and stripping fasteners to develop a fine feel for torque setting. On the 390 I torque fasteners to "snug", not torque spec. I have yet to strip a single fastener. My watchword is: "Less torque, more Loctite."
About the repair manual, I bought the CD from KTM, and in order to have a fast and easy acess to the file, I open in on one computer ans "print to PDF" the file in my language.- I'm finding the CD-ROM repair manual mostly as described above. While I don't have any issues opening it on my work computer (Windows 7 Enterprise), I can't open it on my Mac at home or print it or save it otherwise. I guess I will just leave it open on my work computer when I know I'm going to be doing some work and remote in from my laptop when I get home. This is also unfortunate.