Manual fan switch

[louis.imbrogno]

I'm curious, has anyone installed a manual fan switch on their rc390? I'm not worried about the bike why i'm riding it, its when you cut power to the bike, the fan doesn't stay on. If I turn power back on after riding it then parking maybe a minute later, i'll notice it sometimes will be sitting on H (was 2 bars from H when you turn it off). I think it would be nice to have the ability to manually turn the fan on once I park it, leave it running for a minute or 2, then cut the fan again so its on the downswing of cooling.

Thoughts?

 

[no past]

I added a switch that is wired with a fuse to the battery. Can turn the fan on anytime. It was more for if the fan did not come on automatically. Spal fan and removed the rubber around the top of the engine for better cooling. Inline temp gauge gives so much more info than the "bars". My coolant looked great on top by the cap but when I drained it the stuff in the bottom of the radiator was sludgey. 150 miles on the bike so far...

 

[m3hl]

Have a tutorial by chance?

 

[m3hl]

A write up or a diagram would be great for this. Let me know if you have the info.... track days are getting hot....

 

[no past]

Get the bike warm so the fan turns on and determine which of the two wires currently going to the fan is positive and which is negative with a volt meter. Hook up your new wiring so that positive goes to the original positive and negative goes to original negative for fan. Fan will still come on when the engine gets to a certain temperature or the switch will turn the fan on any time. The aftermarket temp gauge was the one for 16mm hose (they have other sizes) Cut a hose preferably water coming out of the engine (left side?) which my 2015 owners manual shows on page 147 and two hose clamps and temp gauge is hooked in. Drilled some holes in a piece of aluminum for the switch mount. All this worked for me but I may have just got lucky.

 

[Formula390]

Get the bike warm so the fan turns on and determine which of the two wires currently going to the fan is positive and which is negative with a volt meter. Hook up your new wiring so that positive goes to the original positive and negative goes to original negative for fan. Fan will still come on when the engine gets to a certain temperature or the switch will turn the fan on any time.

Hrmmm. I'd bet a shiny new quarter that the second ground wire you added is not required. Typically any ECU is going to switch either the positive OR the negative wire. Don't know if I've seen a bike that switched BOTH on any circuit. In fact, the more that I think of this, if the ground wire WAS switched, then the fan would have come on all the time from your bypass wire, so I think it's more than safe to say that only the + wire is switched and the secondary ground should be omitted. This would mean you wouldn't have to warm up the bike, and can just probe for continuity between the - wire and ground. The other wire will then be your + which you should be able to test by jumping it to + and the fan should come on regardless of temperature, and would still come on when it normally would have. I would also source the + from a keyed circuit and use a relay... that way if some jackass flips the switch, or you walk away from the bike and forget to turn the fan off, the battery won't be flat when you go to start it later. $0.02.

 

[Izu]

Hrmmm. I'd bet a shiny new quarter that the second ground wire you added is not required. Typically any ECU is going to switch either the positive OR the negative wire. Don't know if I've seen a bike that switched BOTH on any circuit. In fact, the more that I think of this, if the ground wire WAS switched, then the fan would have come on all the time from your bypass wire, so I think it's more than safe to say that only the + wire is switched and the secondary ground should be omitted. This would mean you wouldn't have to warm up the bike, and can just probe for continuity between the - wire and ground. The other wire will then be your + which you should be able to test by jumping it to + and the fan should come on regardless of temperature, and would still come on when it normally would have. I would also source the + from a keyed circuit and use a relay... that way if some jackass flips the switch, or you walk away from the bike and forget to turn the fan off, the battery won't be flat when you go to start it later. $0.02.

Hahaha xD thats a whole new way to give your 2 cents to somebody! and I agree with this deduction and I'm sure a little testing will prove it correct

 

[no past]

You are correct, it does work without the ground I added, -checked just now... 1 My limits with electricity are veerrrry low. I think that's why I just added a complete circuit. 2 I like that it is independent of everything else (ignition "on" other wiring/connections.

 

[Formula390]

You are correct, it does work without the ground I added, -checked just now... 1 My limits with electricity are veerrrry low. I think that's why I just added a complete circuit. 2 I like that it is independent of everything else (ignition "on" other wiring/connections.

Excellent. Plus with that wire now gone it's one other possibility to not have to worry about if you (or another owner) might run into a intermittent ground issue down the road. Spurious grounds is something I've spent a LOT of time in my past trying to resolve due to picking up a Kawasaki Concours which I hot rodded up (if anyone out there ever saw a Connie do a 2nd gear snap up wheelie at 60mph, that was probably me. Who says shaft drives can't wheelie!!! LOL) but the wiring harness had been pretty abused over the years by previous owner(s)... so seeing an unnecessary ground added to any circuit on a bike automatically starts to make my left eye twitch.

I'll let you keep that quarter tho. Consider it a good will investment.