Falkon45
Member
Oh wow! Second shock option! Back to eBay. Lol
mattv
Member
It'd be cool to have another option. The picture brings a couple questions to mind, though:
Does the reservoir clear the cat under load?
Is the cat heating up the reservoir?
Does the reservoir clear the cat under load?
Is the cat heating up the reservoir?
Falkon45
Member
The cat and the reservoir shouldn't move at all. The bottom of the shock should be the only part that changes position. As for the heat, I'm sure it's warming it up pretty good. A heat shield could be easily made
airazen
Member
sorry to ask, how much does the R1 shock weight?
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So, I'm about finished with my testing, so feel I can comment here:
Bolt On: Sorta, it depends on your RC model year. The 07-08 R1 shock is almost a direct bolt on for 15-16 model years, but is not a direct bolt on for 17+ models and will need an aftermarket exhaust to fit it, and does not need the shaft reduction bushings. The side with is still narrower, and would need the 1mm side spacer bushings for all model years. The shock reservoir is going to run foul of the mid-pipe on the stock 17+ exhaust. All model years will also need something done about the rear brake reservoir. Most can just unbolt it and then zippy tie it in place, or if you want to go with that race look replace the reservoir with some Tygon tubing.
Rear Ride Height: The 07-08 R1 shock is 10mm longer (310mm), so it's going to raise the back end up. The 99-02 R6 shock is 305mm so 5mm longer than stock. For both of these, this is a good thing, as it will give you more turn-in and cornering clearance. It's not too much additional length and will still allow dropping the front end to get maximum handling while still maintaining straight line stability. Short riders are going to be up on their tip-toes with this shock tho.
Adjustability: The shocks adjustments are the same as the R6 adjusters with compression and rebound damping. There is no high speed damping adjustment (aka triple adjuster) so should be considered a double adjustable. My preliminary testing is similar to the R6, it's damping is still somewhat lacking. It's HEAPS better than the stock boat anchor, and will still require an
Spring: The R1s stock rear 9.4kg spring rate on the stock shock is very similar to the 99-02's 9.3kg spring rate. The stock spring would be good spring rate for a rider up to around 145#, or 165# in full up gear. With the R6 shock I tend to cap that out my recommendation for the stock spring rate at around 160# in gear. After that, you would want to be looking at an aftermarket spring and preload adjuster. Fortunately, the springs and preload adjusters for the 99-02 R6 shock also are the exact same ones for the 07-08 R1 shocks, so my inventory on hand for the R6 shocks works equally well for the R1s. That said, if you are heavier and are REALLY tight on a budget, and just riding on the street, you could go with the R1 shock and it's stock spring, jack up the spring preload, adjust the damping up as best as you can (you'll be setting up to be under sprung and over damped) and still throw the stock RC shock in the dumpster, or use it as an anchor. it'll still underperform but compared to the stock shock it'll be lightyears better still. With the correct spring on there, it would be better yet, but some folks are on a budget, which is entirely what the shock swap was initially intended for. Keeping the stock spring on the shock is also going to depend on the specific shock. Springs age and wear out, and at this point these are going to be 10+ year old shocks. If a shock is low miles, the Bottom Out Bumper (BOB) is still there and in good shape, and when you receive it the adjuster isn't on the very top of the settings, it's probably a decent candidate. Of course, an external visual inspection is never going to be perfect, but if the shock is on the top adjuster, the BOB is dried out and has a lot of cracks in it (or is missing), or the spring has a ton of rock dings on it, then it's probably in need of a rebuild, or just take the easy route and find another shock swap candidate.
thanks Matt, fully appreciate it!!
I will go with the R6 swap when its time. I\ll get the stuff from you, providing shipping isn't stupid.
At first I was like "what the hell is wrong with you guys, this bike handles great" but lately, now that I am getting some confidence, I have noticed that hitting bumps mid corner isn't as cool as one might hope...
I'll need the link pipe, the shock and the kit to fit it up to the bike.
Imma wait for my first service tho, so the KTM peeps don''t get all up in my grill
I will go with the R6 swap when its time. I\ll get the stuff from you, providing shipping isn't stupid.
At first I was like "what the hell is wrong with you guys, this bike handles great" but lately, now that I am getting some confidence, I have noticed that hitting bumps mid corner isn't as cool as one might hope...
I'll need the link pipe, the shock and the kit to fit it up to the bike.
Imma wait for my first service tho, so the KTM peeps don''t get all up in my grill
After reading this thread, I saw that a local shop was giving away a nice looking 08 R1 shock, so how could I resist. When getting a better shock usually around a thousand bucks, this has to be worth a try. I want to loose the cat also and now that should be easier to do while I'm switching our the shock. Happy times.
A question for Evoboy or anyone else who as done this. Not sure if you can see the steps on the preload adjuster., but if you can and you weight around 185ish all geared up, would you let me know where you set the preoad adjuster for sag? If I need to unbolt or remove the shock to adjust the perload, I'd like to do it as few times as possible .If you counterd the number of steps you are out from full hard or full soft, that might allow me to install it and be done with it. Or am I asking for life to be too easy?
A question for Evoboy or anyone else who as done this. Not sure if you can see the steps on the preload adjuster., but if you can and you weight around 185ish all geared up, would you let me know where you set the preoad adjuster for sag? If I need to unbolt or remove the shock to adjust the perload, I'd like to do it as few times as possible .If you counterd the number of steps you are out from full hard or full soft, that might allow me to install it and be done with it. Or am I asking for life to be too easy?
The spring on the R1 and the R6 is "basically" the same spring rate. You are slightly heavy still for the spring, but compared to the stock shock if budget is tight, give the stock spring a try. If you are just on the street, should be close enough-ish for you I would suspect. You'll probably want to set the preload to the third step, possibly the fourth. Spring and damping settings are interconnected, and there is no "correct" setting. Each rider has a different preference. So, I recommend starting in the middle of the adjustments, and change one thing at a time, ride, change one more thing, ride, repeat until you have a setup you like for your riding style. I could take to riders of equal experience and weight, and one rider might love a particular setting, and the next rider would think it's complete **** and that I was trying to kill him with those settings. Some riders like a loose setup (Ari for example) while others like a medium, and some other rider wants the fillings in his teeth to get knocked out.
One thing you'll also notice, is once you have the rear working well, the front is going to start making you crazy!!! You can go with springs and oil up front, and you tune the front suspension with fork oil viscosity and shims to preload the springs. You'll need a few specialty tools. I sell the pin wrench and a heat gun or propane torch are easy enough to find at any big box hardware store. Most riders on the street (generally) with with 7w fork oil. Heavier riders or those who are racing might end up with 9w. All just depends on again, rider setup preferences. It's pretty quick to get the springs setup tho. When I do it, I don't fill the forks with oil until after I have the preload setup. Then I add the oil and button everything back up!
Thanks Matt, I'll start with the preload there, and carry on from there. After all the track time I've had I've come to enjoy setting up a new bike. I settled on process that starts with setting sag, then adjusting compression by feel on the track, and finally setting the rebound to the smallest amount that stops all pogo effect. Then it's just a click or two here or there and its sorted.
You are probably right that the front which feels planted and compliant now, may start to show signs of sketchiness when the new shock is dialed. Thanks for the info on the fork weight.
You are probably right that the front which feels planted and compliant now, may start to show signs of sketchiness when the new shock is dialed. Thanks for the info on the fork weight.
airazen
Member
had problem with the instalation, that part that i marked with yellow circle was stuck with the swing arm, the bushing was not aligned correctly so i cannot put the bolt on...
may i see how it was mounted on your bike...?
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may i see how it was mounted on your bike...?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
lazerboat
New Member
Any info on early 390 Duke compatibility? Choosing between a shiny R1 strut and a couple of heavily worn R6 ones at a local salvage.
You have to make a small notch in the area where the rebound adjuster contacts the swingarm. Not very much has to be removed from the inner flange that sticks up.had problem with the instalation, that part that i marked with yellow circle was stuck with the swing arm, the bushing was not aligned correctly so i cannot put the bolt on...
may i see how it was mounted on your bike...?
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lazerboat
New Member
For those looking for pre-'17 390 Duke compatibility - it is quite the same.
You'll need to add a couple of spacers at the bottom (around 2" thickness in total, check it before you add it) and to saw around 1-1.5" off the lower eye's inner right stiffener. Otherwise it's okay, no interference with other parts noticed for the time being, save for some negligible tension on the rear abs wiring.
You'll need to add a couple of spacers at the bottom (around 2" thickness in total, check it before you add it) and to saw around 1-1.5" off the lower eye's inner right stiffener. Otherwise it's okay, no interference with other parts noticed for the time being, save for some negligible tension on the rear abs wiring.
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