The mechanic at the shop where I purchased my 390 said to save my money on the first valve check and wait until the second one due to the fact they haven't had to adjust any valves at the first check. I did and the valves were still in speck at ten thousand miles when they were checked...
I went ahead and took mine off so I could run straight engine ice, but I have a 2016 and if I recall correct that isn't recommended for 17+.
I see, thanks a lot. I am wondering whether removing the engine makes sense as valve clearance already requires quite a bit of work. How hard is it to remove the engine from the frame compared to checking valve clearance without removing the engine?
I see, thanks a lot. I am wondering whether removing the engine makes sense as valve clearance already requires quite a bit of work. How hard is it to remove the engine from the frame compared to checking valve clearance without removing the engine?
Well honestly, it’s probabaly the same amount of work, it’s a pain to do the valves with it in and It would be way easier to put the valve cover back on with the sealant with the engine out. I did my valves with it in the bike and I often cursed the decision and wished I had just removed it. Especially since I found that one of the valve cover threads in the cam holder was stripped out and had to helicoil it. There’s just not much room and I have tiny girl hands, so I can imagine it would be even more annoying without being able to fit your hands it all the little spaces. You’ll have to removed the exhaust and the radiator hoses (draining the system) but it might be worth it. I guess it depends on how comfortable you are with it.
Take pictures of how things are routed and you should be fine.
I'm not seeing the camholder torque settings in my service manual. Do you have them handy?
The mechanic at the shop where I purchased my 390 said to save my money on the first valve check and wait until the second one due to the fact they haven't had to adjust any valves at the first check.
I'm not seeing the camholder torque settings in my service manual. Do you have them handy?
Page 193. 11 Nm. Be sure to follow the loosening and tightening sequences as specified.
That is bad advice. Mine needed significant adjustment at 600 miles.
Engine in or engine out is a close call. Having done the valves with the engine both in and out of the frame, I'd say that next time I'd leave the engine in... unless there is a problem such as a stripped thread or other needed work. If I had the $55 jig for holding the engine during removal/installation, that might sway me to remove the engine next time. Hmmm, a justification to buy another tool.... ;-)
What is the said engine removal jig you are referring to? I will need to do mine this winter.
Bringing this zombie back from the dead (it was only a little dead)...11Nm / 8.1ft lbs
EDIT: My 2017 RC owners manual and 2014 RC service manual show possibly incorrect valve clearances compared to the 2018 RC owners manual and 2017/18 Duke Service manual. I'm thinking the newer numbers are more correct.
Done: https://www.rc390-forum.com/threads...cifications-for-2018-and-earlier-models.3573/please share the new valve clearance specs, preferably in a new thread.
many thanks!