diagnose my fault code

[mr-fabricator]

Hey guys , mil light is flashing . 2 blinks then 3 quicker ones . Guessing fault code 23 ?????

I think its the o2 sensor ( lambda sensor ) was massivly over fueling last track session . No drop in performance but used 1/2 a litre more fuel per session and my rear swing arm looks like its been varnished !!!!

I have ordered a o2 eliminator as its only needed below 5k revs u understand its over fueling at full power when the ecu changes to closed loop but i theorise that as the fault is log'd at idle it stays in over fuel mode regardless . After all it sets base line at idle ??

Thoughts ????

Regards lee

 

[Fasteddy]

From the owners manual downloaded at KTM...

Blink code of FI warning
lamp (MIL)
23 FI warning lamp (MIL) flashes 2x long, 3x short
Error level condition
Travel speed sensor - measurement range or power problem

Here is the one for O2 sensor....45 FI warning lamp (MIL) flashes 4x long, 5x short
Error level condition
Lambda sensor heater - circuit fault
Lambda sensor heater - short circuit to ground or open circuit
Lambda sensor heater - input signal too high

So it looks like ECU is not getting vehicle speed ....

 

[mr-fabricator]

Thanks for that mate ,

Indeed the ecu is not getting a speed reading as i have disabled the abs and removed the sensors ( the cup bikes do away with all of this also and dont have speedo ) the abs was removed a while back and have probably done 5 track days without a fault code appearing ?? Strange its come on now , the extra fuel used is also now concerning if the fault code has noting to do with that side of things ??

Kind regards lee

 

[Fasteddy]

How many track days / how much have you run the bike since modifying the air box ?

 

[mr-fabricator]

Air box was modified from the start , fault came after track day 7 so plenty of hard riding pre fault . Bike did 950k's running in on the streets before it went to track only .

U got me thinking now about the light flash sequence , will double check its 2 and 3 ...

Regards lee

 

[mr-fabricator]

Fasteddy

Ok so i double checked today and its definatly 23 ,

my o2 eliminator also turned up . Its a 4 wire one for the bosch o2 sensor , 2 white wires for heater , one black and 1 grey . So i remedially wired it in and the fault code still there ( i know according to the book fault 23 is speedo . So it wasnt a surprise . But then a fault 17 came up !!! I found the codes in the book ( didnt see them before ) its lambda sensor curcuit . So it definatly looks like the sensor has been fine all this time ..

and it appears that the eliminator wont work but thats no bother .



i imediatly turned the bike off , gave it a couple of minutes and connected the propper o2 sensor back in , fault code still there . Ive disconnected the battery and will give it half an hour and see if it rectifies things . Bloody annoying .

Still.dont know why the bike used all the extra fuel but the fault code 23 and fuel issue happening at the same time ill put down to coincidence .

With regards to the air box mod that i did do you think this may be causing the issue of fuel ??



Thanks for your help

** update ** code 17 has gone , just needed to let it idle for 30 seconds to recognise the o2 sensor was working properly .

So back to code 23 ??

 

[Fasteddy]

Just a few observations, The eliminator in the LC8 article uses a 330 ohm resistor, the 390 definitely has a different ECU architecture and from looking at the wiring diagram and from the voltage measurements I have made on mine I would 'conclude' / 'guess' that the o2 sensors are different because the LC8 uses 12 volts for the heater (time 2 sensors) and the RC uses 5 volts and is referenced to a deferential input for the ECU's A to D converter which is shared with the TPS - Throttle Position Sensor.

Considering the size of the resistors value and the power rating needed I went with the those 'assumptions' and the eliminator for the LC8 / 330 ohm would dissipate .423 watts on the LC8 and a mere .075 on an RC 390. But now seeing that you tried it and it gave code 17 which I had not noticed in the list it seems that the ECU is looking for a variation in voltage thus the reason the programing code in the ECU tells you when the voltage is out of range.

I asked about the air box because the Manifold Absolute Pressure and intake Air sensors (combined in one?) are in the throttle body and may give incorrect readings with the modded box.

Just some observations... gotta go play Engineer now

Cheers

 

[mr-fabricator]

Thanks for the insight maye . The eliminator i purchased was destined for a 650 v strom but i was hoping that it would work on the bosch o2 sensor fitted to the rc . Was a wild stab in the dark but hey , all good .

Back to the air box quickly i remembered that i did do a little more work on it before last track session , the box had snorkle removed , lid drilled and a few holes drilled innthe sides of the plastic tray ( between the frame spars ) at this point everything was working fine and nothing obvious was observed , then i thought id remove the sides of the tray completly so u can look straight through the frame , and see the air box . This was for my last track outing when the extra fuel.has been used and a brownish sooty glaze all over the swing arm where the exhaust exits . I read another post and something clicked in my brain ( yes it hurt ! Ha ha ) with the airbox now quite exposed and the openings to it just behind my legs could it possibly be causing negative pressure or turbulance and messing with things . Like i said previous i didnt see or notice any lack of performance . Only one way to tell for sure and that is to reverse and close up the open sides again . See if it solves the issue .. time will tell ..

I dug out my speed sensor cables , plugged them in but fault ttill there, im not going to reinstall the abs module , wheel sensor plates etc to try and clear the code , afterall what do they do to the cup bikes ???? Its only a speed sensor code error so nothing detremental to the engine .

thanks again . Lee

 

[Fasteddy]

I have been looking for a manual for a non ABS model, like the RC200 / Duke , It would be interesting to see how a non ABS gets the speed pulses. I would not be surprised if there is an unused port into the ECU for that purpose or a jumper wire that gets installed so when the ECU boots it knows what model it is in. Or it may be done via the KTM tuning software that can be down loaded for most all models BUT the ones with Bosch ECU,,,,

 

[mr-fabricator]

Jumper wire sounds plausible. Good thinking .

Will do some more searching as im sure quiye a few people have removed the abs now so may have come across the same issue ..

regards lee

 

[ivanbritomu]

hi i have two codes 15 and 17 what meaning please urgent?? 200 duke

 

[ArkansasDave]

The codes should be in your owners manual you should also find a duke 200 forum to ask on since we are all RC390 owners.

 

[OldVet]

You might try letting it idle longer. I was told five minutes for my KTM 350 EXC-F to reset?

 

[=maz=]

Jumper wire sounds plausible. Good thinking .

Will do some more searching as im sure quiye a few people have removed the abs now so may have come across the same issue ..

regards lee

Hi mate...did you get anywhere with your investigation into this fault code?
Our second bike threw up the same error code at the track on Sunday...of the 2 bikes we have this is the one that has done the least KM's/Track-time, has the same mods as my bike but no error code on my bike. I have not noticed an increase in fuel consumption on the bike since the error-code started.