Do I need to remap for stock exhaust with decat link pipe?

[Drstimpy]

I am sorry if I bothered you.
No offense means there is nothing wrong with making money. Not being face to face is a potent contributor to assumptions.

The exhaust and mapping you provide are very small parts of your business but parts nonetheless. That isn’t a bad thing but full disclosure of potential conflict of interest goes hand in hand with reasonable discourse.

The business you do is the very reason you know more about it than me[emoji106] so I’m glad you take the time to provide valuable opinions that you don’t get paid for...

I think you have given reasonable answers to reasonable questions.

There is plenty to ponder as I continue to ride...the best thing I could do is switch between the stock map and a tuner map in real time to proclaim to the world its worth[emoji482]

No arguing that it is a very expensive upgrade either [emoji389]


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[Formula390]

I am sorry if I bothered you.
No offense means there is nothing wrong with making money. Not being face to face is a potent contributor to assumptions.

The exhaust and mapping you provide are very small parts of your business but parts nonetheless. That isn’t a bad thing but full disclosure of potential conflict of interest goes hand in hand with reasonable discourse.

The business you do is the very reason you know more about it than me[emoji106] so I’m glad you take the time to provide valuable opinions that you don’t get paid for...

I think you have given reasonable answers to reasonable questions.

There is plenty to ponder as I continue to ride...the best thing I could do is switch between the stock map and a tuner map in real time to proclaim to the world its worth[emoji482]

No arguing that it is a very expensive upgrade either [emoji389]

It wasn't something that I considered bothering of me. I just wanted to be factually clear. I'm an old greybeard cranky guy sometimes and can get a burr under my saddle, but I -=USUALLY=- do my best to put my oven mitts on before checking the forum when I'm in a foul mood. LOL

I concentrate on the 390. Exclusively. I've had more than a few folks tell me I'm totally nuts to do that, but the way I see it, it gives me the opportunity to concentrate COMPLETELY on my niche of a niche of a niche market. I don't have the thundering horde of customers, but it also gives me the opportunity to know my customer well, and be very available to 'em. I've had racers call, just expecting to leave a message, at 2am on a Saturday night... only to have me answer and spend 45 minutes with them on the phone as they work through a problem on their racebike... and all they expected was to hopefully get a reply before they hit the grid a few hours later that day. I had one customer email me at 11:45pm on Thursday this week, who NEEDED a set of footpegs in hand for the weekend. It was too late for them to go out that evening, but they were on their way first thing Friday morning, and he had them in his hand at 9:42am Saturday morning (Howdy Ron!!!) so he was good to go for Sunday. My sole customer base is only 390 riders, but on the plus side, it also affords me the ability to participate on the forum and be in direct contact with my customers. They can get to know me, and I them. Most also know, if I call them a jackass, it's because I like 'em. LOL (Like many of y'all, I too am guilty of having my BEST friends say I'm an asshole)

These RC390's are a little bit of a bother with the fueling, and the already lean condition doesn't help. In general, pretty much every bike (IMHO) should have the cup bike ECU flash. That will take care of the lean condition for street riding, for the most part... It still isn't the optimal AFR, but it gets it out of the dangerous zone, especially if you have made ANY modifications for the intake or exhaust. It's a cheap thing to do as well, and should only take 10-15 minutes at your dealership. You pop the rear passenger seat, plug in the shop computer, and flash the ECU. Usually takes longer for them to find the map in the computer than to do the deed. The shop laptop does need to "call home" to Mattighofen as the ECU is encrypted, but that's pretty quick, as long as they have an internet connection where the flash is being done. Cost wise, it's all over the place. Some dealerships will do it with a handshake. Others will charge some nominal fee, usually assisted if you bring a few sub sandwitches and/or beer for the wrenches. Others may charge a shop minimum of an hour service... in what I call the "Dude, why you gotta be a dick like this!?!?!!" tax and they quickly are off my radar as a dealership I like. It's also possible to box your ECU up and mail it off to either Chad or Paxton and they can flash the ECU for you if your local dealership can't (CA riders for one) or wont because it's a streetbike and not a racer. So it's not a requirement to get a PCv and tune for the specific changes made on your specific bike with your specific air filter and your specific valve clearances and your blah blah blah blah blah.

The ECU flash is a good idea, even if one hasn't done ANY modifications, specifically because of the factory lean conditions that everyone with a non-cup bike starts with.

You may not be noticing the lean condition. If you are still running the standard streetbike ECU map tho, if you put it on the dyno and the AFR stick up the tailpipe, it WILL show you are running lean tho.

 

[Drstimpy]

Wow!
That’s a fantastic idea! Thanks grumpy old dude!
Quite fond of my RC and glad to be part of the small family.
Dealer re opens Tuesday so I’ll get right on it[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


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[Formula390]

Wow!
That’s a fantastic idea! Thanks grumpy old dude!
Quite fond of my RC and glad to be part of the small family.
Dealer re opens Tuesday so I’ll get right on it[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

You bet. If the dealer gives you any flack, pull the ECU (remove seat and gastank cap and cover. It's on the back side of the gastank and is easy to remove) and mail it to Chad at Commonwealth moto and he'll flash it for you easy enough. Not sure what he charges for it... my dealer did mine while I was there dyno testing exhausts so didn't have to futz around with getting my dealer to put the cup bike flash on a non-cup bike. Most won't have any issue, but some seem to have an issue with the request so just be prepared for them to say no or to want a lot to do it. If it's the dealer you bought the bike from, they SHOULD be good about it and do it for a fairly small fee which may even be waved if you show up with treats. -=ALWAYS=- show up to your dealer with some sort of treat. You wanna be on their "great guys" list.

 

[Drstimpy]

Brilliant advice again[emoji122][emoji122][emoji122]


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[antarius]

You bet. If the dealer gives you any flack, pull the ECU (remove seat and gastank cap and cover. It's on the back side of the gastank and is easy to remove) and mail it to Chad at Commonwealth moto and he'll flash it for you easy enough. Not sure what he charges for it... my dealer did mine while I was there dyno testing exhausts so didn't have to futz around with getting my dealer to put the cup bike flash on a non-cup bike. Most won't have any issue, but some seem to have an issue with the request so just be prepared for them to say no or to want a lot to do it. If it's the dealer you bought the bike from, they SHOULD be good about it and do it for a fairly small fee which may even be waved if you show up with treats. -=ALWAYS=- show up to your dealer with some sort of treat. You wanna be on their "great guys" list.

Except for in California where everything is illegal. Haha! You already know that though . We have to send our things places or buy stuff and have it shipped in, so frustrating!

 

[Kermit]

You bet. If the dealer gives you any flack, pull the ECU (remove seat and gastank cap and cover. It's on the back side of the gastank and is easy to remove) and mail it to Chad at Commonwealth moto and he'll flash it for you easy enough. Not sure what he charges for it... my dealer did mine while I was there dyno testing exhausts so didn't have to futz around with getting my dealer to put the cup bike flash on a non-cup bike. Most won't have any issue, but some seem to have an issue with the request so just be prepared for them to say no or to want a lot to do it. If it's the dealer you bought the bike from, they SHOULD be good about it and do it for a fairly small fee which may even be waved if you show up with treats. -=ALWAYS=- show up to your dealer with some sort of treat. You wanna be on their "great guys" list.

Hi Matt, greetings. Will the Cup Bike ecu flash apply (and be worthwhile) on my MY17 Duke 390? I would like to improve the closed loop fueling if possible.

ps. Your parts now have customs clearance in the UK. Just waiting for them to send me the bill for VAT, duty and clearance. Jeez, this takes some time.

 

[Formula390]

Hi Matt, greetings. Will the Cup Bike ecu flash apply (and be worthwhile) on my MY17 Duke 390? I would like to improve the closed loop fueling if possible.

ps. Your parts now have customs clearance in the UK. Just waiting for them to send me the bill for VAT, duty and clearance. Jeez, this takes some time.

Hmmm. I'm not sure. You may be able to use the flash from the 390R and then stack it with the WSS300 flash on the Duke. My concern is the ride by wire, which the cup bike doesn't have. Pacman might have a better idea here. I've only ever seen the dealer flash setup over a shoulder, so best to get a dealer reply for anything cross pollination based.

Paging Dr Paxton to the White Courtesy Phone!

 

[Superpacman13]

Hmmm. I'm not sure. You may be able to use the flash from the 390R and then stack it with the WSS300 flash on the Duke. My concern is the ride by wire, which the cup bike doesn't have. Pacman might have a better idea here. I've only ever seen the dealer flash setup over a shoulder, so best to get a dealer reply for anything cross pollination based.

Paging Dr Paxton to the White Courtesy Phone!

Some people have to race for a living dammit! Every RBW bike does NOT have any flash available through a KTM dealer aftermarket solutions are the only applicable solution.

 

[Drstimpy]

I just found out today that for my 2017 there are no flash re-maps from the factory. You are forced into an aftermarket solution with this bike


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[Shifterkart]

I just found out today that for my 2017 there are no flash re-maps from the factory. You are forced into an aftermarket solution with this bike


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That's odd, my dealer flashed my 2017 at its first service.

I think it was RM938BU1212401 or something like that.

 

[Radar1075]

My dealer also refused last summer. Told me had I brought it in months earlier, no problem but as of a few months prior to my request, someone got in trouble (can't remember if it was the dealer or KTM) but in any case my dealer no longer flashes as of last summer.

 

[Radar1075]

On another note, I found this thread intriguing for 2 reasons. First, this is the first report I've come across where a stock 2017 doesn't show lean symptoms as I was under the assumption all were the same. My 2017 ran like cap from the day I rode home from the dealer, so much so I seriously contemplated trading it in for an R3. Thank God I didn't but this leads me to my second reason. I too experienced something which goes against all conventional wisdom. To preffic, I know little about bikes as this is my first. However, deciding to keep the bike, I made 2 changes at the same time, which i later learned may not habe been the smartest to do. I removed the air box cover/added a K&N filter and installed the Leo Vince decat link pipe. These changes are the reason I kept the bike. First ride out was 180 degree difference. I could pull into my driveway in 2nd without having to pull in the clutch. Most of the low RPM surging disappeared. At a green light I was no longer relegated to either giving too little throttle and stalling or too much and launching. 15 minute idle after resulted in fan coming on half the amount of times. When it did kick in, it turned off in under 20 seconds vs what seemed like minutes. And first time fan came on was at the 7 minute mark vs 4. 15 minute idle was done multiple times before and after and results were always the same. Based on my experience after 1 year, my personal opinion is that a fuel controller is the first mod I wish I did the day I took the bike home. With that said, I've been reading forums and other sites for a year and can't come up with a plausible explanation for how an already lean bike "seems" to run a whole lot better after introducing more air and not adjusting fueling to compensate. I say seem because I never had the bike on a dyno and have no clue as to what was really happening. But I do know that everyone who rode my bike before and after described the same experience. Just wondering if anyone out there has an idea as to why experienced anything similar. Last note is all riding was done within the initial 620 mile break-in period so revs kept under 7000 and throttle position rarely went above 20%. Out of curiosity, 1200 miles later, I recently bypassed my fuel controller and took a spin. Though noticeable, I experienced none of the lean symptoms I encountered before making these two initial mods.

 

[mattv]

Maybe the difference was due to the engine not being broken in yet.

I fixed the closed loop fueling issue with a Rapid Bike Easy: https://www.rc390-forum.com/forum/engine-and-technical-discussion/2910-2017-closed-loop.html

I believe the Rapid Bike systems are the only controllers that can affect the closed loop fueling on the 2017+ models.

Other fuel controllers may smooth out the lean symptoms by changing ignition timing, but the AFR will still be on the lean side.