RobbiRob76
New Member
oops soory... 2 rears to one front
Driven Racing 16 Tooth Sprocket
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
I got my 16t front installed! Works with the stock chain but I don't think you could go +1 in the rear. The adjusters are nearly bottomed out.
Plenty of clearance up front with the chain guard.
Plenty of clearance up front with the chain guard.
psych0hans
Member
Would love a ride report.I got my 16t front installed! Works with the stock chain but I don't think you could go +1 in the rear. The adjusters are nearly bottomed out.
Plenty of clearance up front with the chain guard.
RobbiRob76
New Member
I have had mine since February 10th, but I have been traveling so much, I never got the opportunity to install until yesterday. I only got to ride for a few minutes, that being said this is my initial thoughts,
Pulling away from an intersection... I was fearful this would be kind of doggish trying to get it moving from a dead stop, imagine staring from a dead stop on an RS 125 if you have ever ridden one? Nope nothing like that at all!!! It really is not that much of a difference. Where I noticed it most was 4th-5th gear roll on, like if you are on a 2 lane road and need to drop a gear to pass an 18 wheeler. It's not bad at all, just different. It makes the bike much more fun to ride at freeway speeds, way less vibration. Too soon to say if I am going to go up one tooth in the rear, I want to ride a for an entire day or some sort of road trip before I decide. If I do increase the rear sprocket? It will be a driven rear as well. I support those who support the RC 390.
Robbi
Pulling away from an intersection... I was fearful this would be kind of doggish trying to get it moving from a dead stop, imagine staring from a dead stop on an RS 125 if you have ever ridden one? Nope nothing like that at all!!! It really is not that much of a difference. Where I noticed it most was 4th-5th gear roll on, like if you are on a 2 lane road and need to drop a gear to pass an 18 wheeler. It's not bad at all, just different. It makes the bike much more fun to ride at freeway speeds, way less vibration. Too soon to say if I am going to go up one tooth in the rear, I want to ride a for an entire day or some sort of road trip before I decide. If I do increase the rear sprocket? It will be a driven rear as well. I support those who support the RC 390.
Robbi
psych0hans
Member
Hi, I hope this isn't too stupid of a question, but wouldn't going -1,-2 be a good way to reduce rotating mass? Reducing the size of the sprockets and the chain, while getting a slightly taller gearing? Weight savings would be even more pronounced if you get an alu rear sprocket.
RobbiRob76
New Member
It is not a stupid question, but you guys freaking out about weight blow me away! Let me ask you this. If I put the 16 tooth on one bike, and your set up another, do you think you could honestly tell me the difference? I have raced for 5 decades. I have won an AMA/CCS National Championship in 2009. I promise you I could not tell the difference. The 16 tooth gives you more gearing options without having to remove chain links... What if you want to go in between the 2 gearings you just mentioned? If starting with the 16, you only need to add a one up on the rear sprocket in and possibly not have to add any chain? You should worry about set up first and then figure out how to reduce the weight when it comes to gearing.... But if you are one of the rare guys who can tell which bike is lighter by adding an aluminum rear, you should be riding for a living. I sell chain and sprockets for a living, I ride different set ups all the time, and if you set up 2 bikes differently using your set up and how I set up mine, there is no way in hell I could tell you which is lighter because of an aluminum rear sprocket vs a steel front.
My 2 cents Robbi
psych0hans
Member
Honestly, I don't think I would notice even a much bigger difference as I'm NOT fast on the track and even slower on the streets. I love going through race and track bike build threads and I read this somewhere, so it just peaked my curiosity. Thanks for your reply.
RobbiRob76
New Member
Honestly, I don't think I would notice even a much bigger difference as I'm NOT fast on the track and even slower on the streets. I love going through race and track bike build threads and I read this somewhere, so it just peaked my curiosity. Thanks for your reply.
I completely get why you would ask! Maybe I am jaded because I have raced motorcycles since 1974, I just find it interesting when people (not you) talk to me about the benefits of exhaust, suspension, gearing and weight, when they have not invested in themselves yet. What I mean is learn to ride what you have, take a riding / racing school, being safe and learning technique is the best money you will ever spend. I have people I race with who have much better equipment, because they have a much better check book... But when it comes time to ride, they can't use what the bike could do in stock form. Now they have created a monster, they can't ride anywhere close to it's potential. The bike is amazingly light, but what does it matter? Don't worry about your track day times, go have fun. There is no replacement for seat time. The more you get, the more you learn, the faster you will go!!!! Let me know if I can help in regards to chain or sprocket questions anytime!
Robbi
stevieboy
Member
Pulling away from a stop on my RS125 was WAY better than the same on my RS50!
=maz=
Member
Interesting read.
I have tried the 43T rear sprocket and changed back to a 44T because the I lost drive and the 43 didn't allow me to get everything out of the bike at my local track...with the 44 I am right on the redline as I reach my braking marker after the longest straight(We have a very short track with a massive braking area just before the last turn).
So I wonder how this might be used to my advantage...would the 1+ on the front work out to be between the 44 and 43?
I have tried the 43T rear sprocket and changed back to a 44T because the I lost drive and the 43 didn't allow me to get everything out of the bike at my local track...with the 44 I am right on the redline as I reach my braking marker after the longest straight(We have a very short track with a massive braking area just before the last turn).
So I wonder how this might be used to my advantage...would the 1+ on the front work out to be between the 44 and 43?
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
Maths,
Stock
45/15 = 3.000 final drive
44/15 = 2.933
43/15 = 2.866
42/15 = 2.800
45/16 = 2.812
So no, this is more between 42 and 43.
Could go +1/+1
46/16 = 2.875
That puts you between the 44 and 43.
Last edited:
Fasteddy
Member
Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator
Obligatory post when discussing sprocket selection.....
Obligatory post when discussing sprocket selection.....
=maz=
Member
Thanks Ryan and Eddy
RobbiRob76
New Member
Boom great data. Thanks for taking the time to share the data. Makes sense as next logical move.
Robbi
rick
New Member
slightly off topic, back in my Ninja 250 racing days many of us ran 428 chain/sprocket kits. People figured it was worth about half a horsepower, gave you a little finer choice on gearing and it was cheaper to boot. I haven't found anything like that for the RC390 yet.
psych0hans
Member
Ive heard of people running 415, I believe DCMoney was in talks with someone about a possible 415 kit for the 390.
rick
New Member
Nice! Thanks.
RobbiRob76
New Member
Just be careful... Chain is my life. Make sure if you do the conversion the risk is worth the reward... If you literally feel the weight of the chain is holding you back, go ahead... Be sure you do not skimp on quality of chain, more than the life of your motorcycle is at risk if the chain fails. Not saying don't do it, but I would NEVER do it on a street application. Not because of tensile strength, but because of fatigue strength over time. Not saying it has to be an RK chain either, just a premium quality chain.
My 2 cents. Nothing more.
Robbi
My 2 cents. Nothing more.
Robbi
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