Evans water-less coolant

[spoolnaround]

I have found a couple of guys here that say they were going to try the Evans water-less coolant but there hasn't been any follow up. If you are using it how is it working out? My 2017 consistently runs at the top bar of the lower section. At one point on a ride running the bike hard I had a check engine light came on, after sitting over night it went out.

 

[KVA.36]

I switched over to the new Twin Air Ice Cool and it was a huge difference, but it lowered one bar for normal street and highway riding. I noticed that the fan didnt come on as mush after switching. It was far less work than switching to Evans. But nothing beats Evans, hands down.

https://www.twinair.com/new-products-from-twin-air.php

 

[antarius]

This has been discussed ad-naseum, but let me make the quick reminder:

Your temperature gauge is reading the temperature of your coolant, not of the engine itself.

Coolant that stays “colder” does not necessarily mean it has removed more heat from your engine - which means it doesn’t necessarily mean the engine itself is actually at a lower temperature. Just the coolant is.

Finally, physics and thermodynamics day:

Water is the best at EXTRACTING HEAT from a source (engine) and moving it into the liquid. Water under pressure boils at about the same temperature as Ethalyn Glycol, between 245-260F depending what pressure radiator cap you run. Water freezes at 32F.

Ethelyn Glycol (“Normal coolant”) is second best at extracting heat from a source. Under pressure it and water boil at about the same point. Depending on mixture, it freezes significantly below zero. It also has lubricating properties.

Propelyn Glycol (engine ice, Evans(Evans is pure, no water), etc) is signicantly LESS efficient at extracting heat than Ethelyn Glycol and much less than water. As it’s less efficient at removing heat, the coolant itself stays “cooler.” This means it takes more time to “boil over” as it takes longer to reach its boiling point. It also has a very low freezing point and also lubricates parts.

So decide for yourself what’s best and what protection you need - but remember, temperature gauges read coolant not head temperature. Colder coolant does not necessarily mean a “colder engine.” It does mean you are farther away from boiling over.

 

[Deleted member 452]

I have 27K miles on my bike (14K W/2nd motor). I've been running Evans for 20+K miles and it doesn't seem to lower temps but their claim is that it resists boiling/vaporizing around the hotspots of the head which can help prevent detonation, etc...
That said, I just came back from a 1,200 mile trip where it was 103 degrees during part of the ride and my temp gauge showed the same readout as when I ride in more mild weather (last 2 bars before the hot mark remained unlit). My old motor puked coolant and overheated often which I later found out was caused by leaking head gaskets/warped head. It wasn't worth rebuilding once I took it apart to see the damage caused by KTM's "warranty repairs" so I bought a motor with 100/miles on it, took it apart, and addressed all the known issues with these motors. I can now say with 99% certainty that if your bike overheats, a SPAL fan, high pressure radiator cap, different brand of coolant, and/or coolant additive will not fix the problem. Look at your head gasket for small leaks since this will pressurize your cooling system with hot exhaust gasses. Once the gasket completely fails, oil & coolant mix which will destroy your motor.