RobbiRob76
New Member
is a "Forked" style upholstery tool required to pop plastic rivets on radiator guard, or do you simply pop center of rivet to release? It sucks upper has to come off to change oil!
A1VW2NV
Member
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE UPPERS TO CHANGE THE OIL! The fasteners are removed by pushing out the center's. Don't push then all the way thru, though.
RobbiRob76
New Member
Call me a "Candy Ass" whatever? Am I the only who think you need to an Olympic Gymnast to change the oil, with only 2 hands. I was spoiled for years having access to a lift, but Jaysus Criminy that sucks doing it the floor. I'M buying a damn lift! Maybe just a center stand. Need a new one anyway!
Fasteddy
Member
I started looking for one the same day I did the oil change on mine, I was really spoiled long ago I had a single post lift, probably never see one of those again..
RobbiRob76
New Member
my old shop was (3) hydraulic single post. Can't beat it!
RobbiRob76
New Member
FYI Bottom drain bolt, barely tightened. Oil filter cover bolts (left side) was LESS than finger tight. Everyone check your stuff. It's worth the time to pull bodywork and check all bolts.
Treachery
Moderator
I'll chime in here to say: Be careful when re-tightening the oil filter cover. The torque spec is low; 8 Nm, I think, but it felt like I was tightening the bejeezus out of it (using a torque wrench). I finally backed the bolts out and went "snug," via my calibrated manual force-providing appendages.
RobbiRob76
New Member
Treachery, I literally remembered that while I was tightening. Thank you for posting that comment.
parillaguy
Member
Warning to All: do your first oil change after only a short amount of mileage. The amount of metal 'swarf' in the oil drained at my firts oil change was somewaht alarming. I would suggest doing your first oil change at 60-100 KM from new. I suspect some of the 'swarf' in the front bottom filter is probably chewed up gasket as it didn't look like metal. However, the stuff from the main drain is metal (aluminium). parillaguy
RobbiRob76
New Member
Thanks, there is a whole thread about this... Good info in there.
Treachery
Moderator
I used an old toothbrush, hot water, and detergent. After I scrubbed out the sink (to avoid being shot by SWMBO), I put the screens out in the sun to dry while doing the rest of the stuff I was working on. You might be able to use contact cleaner, but as one of the screens appears to be nylon, I didn't want to use anything that harsh. HTH.
reenmachine
Member
Similar here -- old toothbrush, pipe cleaners, and lots of hot water.
Hiflo HF-155 was my choice for filter.
Hiflo HF-155 was my choice for filter.
Treachery
Moderator
^^^^^
So, the 155 fits? I had sent an info request to the outfit that makes the stainless version that cross-references to the HiFlo, and they didn't answer. Compared to the really expensive spin-on stainless filters, $22 for permanent doesn't sound too bad. OTOH, introducing the cleaning step and that delay in completing the oil change sounds like a waste of time.
So, the 155 fits? I had sent an info request to the outfit that makes the stainless version that cross-references to the HiFlo, and they didn't answer. Compared to the really expensive spin-on stainless filters, $22 for permanent doesn't sound too bad. OTOH, introducing the cleaning step and that delay in completing the oil change sounds like a waste of time.
Wish I had read this first, I ended up taking everything off.
Years ago I developed the plans for a "2 sheets of plywood" workstand. You may want to consider that before buying one. It's REALLY easy to build!
Collapsible Motorcycle Workstand
It folds down smaller for storage out of the way too:
reenmachine
Member
It fits. It's in there right now.
Indeed they do.
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