Questions Regarding Reliability

[DylanOhara]

Picked up a 2016 with 1700 miles on it. Now has 2100 miles after a few days. I've had many bikes and probably 100k road miles or more. I have a few things I'd like to clear up before I feel totally comfortable riding daily.

How do I know if KTM has already replaced the head on this bike?

What do I order or modify right now to improve the reliability of this bike totally disregarding cost?

 

[mattv]

My advice would be to stop worrying and ride the shit out of it. If the gasket blows, throw money at it then.

I say that because, as I understand it, the best way to prevent the blown head gasket is to mill the head flat.

 

[Chuditch]

Yep, if it aint broke.....

 

[DylanOhara]

If it ain't broke don't fix it isn't a motto to live by. I work in industrial maintenance. We invest millions across the corporation investigating preventative maintenance and staying ahead of the curve.

 

[mattv]

Apples and oranges. By that analogy, you should be spending hundreds to prevent failure of your alarm clock.

Joking aside, it's my understanding that most failures happen to racers that push the bike it its limits for extended periods of time.

I think the person to talk to would be Chad Wells at Commonwealth Moto (cjwells on this forum).

He knows this engine very well, and has developed a complete performance engine kit for this bike and also offers head service: KTM Store :: KTM Street Powerparts :: 390 DUKE :: Engine Performance :: PERFORMANCE ENGINE KIT FOR KTM 390

He can probably tell you everything you need to know about the gasket issue.


Regarding knowing if KTM already did head work, my best guess would be to call a dealer and ask for a service history (probably should have the VIN handy). I assume this type of work would be documented with KTM.

 

[DylanOhara]

You wouldn't because cost to PM vs. cost to replace. Cost for towing, an interrupted vacation, a rental car, wreck during a turn caused by said failure is certainly more expensive than preventing a well known and commonly occurring failure.

Not interested in a performance package as this is a daily rider and will be used with my other bikes in 1k-2k mile road trips. I've done many and I'd prefer not to have this bike be the first to have a catastrophic failure during a trip.

I'll contact a local dealer, but I thought I read elsewhere that it can be determined by KNOWLEDGEABLE users if the head has been replaced by simply looking at it or the gasket.

 

[mattv]

Fair points.

I mentioned the performance kit Chad developed to give credence to my statement that he's knowledgeable. He may be able to tell you if you can determine if headwork was done.

 

[antarius]

You wouldn't because cost to PM vs. cost to replace. Cost for towing, an interrupted vacation, a rental car, wreck during a turn caused by said failure is certainly more expensive than preventing a well known and commonly occurring failure.

Not interested in a performance package as this is a daily rider and will be used with my other bikes in 1k-2k mile road trips. I've done many and I'd prefer not to have this bike be the first to have a catastrophic failure during a trip.

I'll contact a local dealer, but I thought I read elsewhere that it can be determined by KNOWLEDGEABLE users if the head has been replaced by simply looking at it or the gasket.

If money is no object:

1) Get a higher pressure radiator cap.
2) Replace with a high quality coolant - I do not use nor like Propolyn Glycol based coolants but many do and they are fine. I prefer standard “Ethyln Glycol”.
3) Send your head off to Chad Wells at KTMPERFORMANCE (commonwealth motors) and have him machine the surface truly 100% flat. Replace with his head gasket. The warped head is often a cause for head gasket issues.
4) SPAL Fan
5) Get a Power Commander V with a suitable map to richen the bike up. This will keep it running richer and cooler.
6) Do your maintenance as scheduled. Buy quality oils and adjust your valves as needed.

 

[Chuditch]

If it ain't broke don't fix it isn't a motto to live by. I work in industrial maintenance. We invest millions across the corporation investigating preventative maintenance and staying ahead of the curve.

Well done you, sounds like a good job.

 

[TylerH]

In my opinion based on owning many bike types, Reliability is hit or miss.
Keep up on normal maintenance. Keep looking for early signs of abnormal behavior. Keep coolant at the proper level (coolant tank level check is not enough...check the radiator every now and again) and bleed properly, air in the system might not self bleed, and hot spots in a head can lead to warpage. Use good quality products and ride it!

 

[DylanOhara]

Is there a particular part number for the SPAL fan?

Engine Ice or water wetter for the coolant upgrade?

I'll search the in-forum marketplace for a used PCV.

Does KTM not offer a replacement head that is machined properly? Could I just buy a spare head to have sent to him?

Lastly, is there a thread on valve adjustment as it relates directly to this bike?

 

[m3hl]

https://www.amazon.com/Spal-30103011-Paddle-Blade-Puller/dp/B009OBP0Z6

Thats the fan. I think the consensus is that Water Wetter OR Engine Ice is fine.

 

[reenmachine]

Is there a particular part number for the SPAL fan?

SPAL 30103011

Lastly, is there a thread on valve adjustment as it relates directly to this bike?

https://www.evernote.com/shard/s225/sh/d540c610-7399-47be-aae3-f8875a3e9eda/52b6f26d9ad402d8

 

[mattv]

Valve adjustment video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sScXWEoSqyM

I would send cjwells a PM regarding the head, or try the contact page for Commonwealth Moto: Ducati | Triumph | Motorcycles | Louisville, KY | Commonwealth

 

[DylanOhara]

All I need now is information on the radiator cap. I think I saw one on one of our sponsors pages. Also, is the SPAL fan plug and play or does it require modification of the connector?

 

[mattv]

This is the cap: https://mnnthbx.com/product/1-6-bar-radiator-cap-ktm-rc390-duke-390/

The SPAL fan is almost plug and play. You have to remove the plug on your stock radiator fan, cut the SPAL plug apart, and stick the SPAL wires into the stock plug. Some other people have cut and soldered the wires, but it's not necessary, you can pull the wires out of the stock plug by depressing a little plastic tab inside the plug (going from memory, but I think that's accurate). I think I used a small eyeglass-style flat head screwdriver to depress the tab in the stock plug to release the wires.

Once you have the plug swapped over, you need to trim a little plastic off the the SPAL fan. Here's a picture I found on the duke forums:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c114/sftrz1r/90226798-3DFD-4294-8C75-DE031B45160A.jpg

Overall it's pretty straightforward.

Also a good time to swap out the coolant, if you're planning on doing that.

p.s. - I also removed the crummy plastic radiator guard and replaced it with an R&G guard when I did mine. In addition to better protection, it makes future maintenance easier, because the plastic guard uses annoying plastic pop rivets.

 

[DylanOhara]

I have a few deutsch kits and tools from building harnesses for sportsters if worse comes to worst.

 

[mattv]

I remembered a little more about the SPAL plug. On the end of the wires there are flat blade connectors inside the plastic plug housing (the stock plug and SPAL plug).

This is why I remember cutting the SPAL plug apart; to preserve the wires and flat connectors on the end of the wires. Once you've cut the plug into pieces and gotten the wires out, they slip right into the stock connector.

 

[Tirefriar]

Reviving an old thread in search of data on radiator caps. I see pressure variances of 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0. Why not go with 2.0 or higher?

 

[ReidMcT]

Reviving an old thread in search of data on radiator caps. I see pressure variances of 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0. Why not go with 2.0 or higher?

You run the risk of overwhelming some components and causing leaks. E.g., Water pump seals.