2017+ Bodywork compatibility with 2016 rc?

[philipviana]

20k+ miles on my 2016 rc390, bodywork is pristine from a distance but cracked and sheared in many locations at connectors: L and R fairings sheared off where they meet the front of the windscreen (thanks dealer), rubber peg where the lower L+R fairings meet the belly pan are totally cracked off with no way of gluing or adhering (terrible design and plastic quality), L+R fairings plastic connectors that meet the plastic gas tank are totally broken, and the metal hangar that links the belly pan to the exhaust is all rusted and F'd. Summary: currently staying on my bike with zipties and luck.

Wondering about buying some 2017 or 2018 OEM bodywork because I like the look of it quite a bit. Anyone tried this? Is the 2017+ bodywork compatible with the 2016 model? I know the exhaust design is different and may present a problem at the belly pan, but wondering if there are any other conflicts.

Looked at some aftermarket kits and not a fan of most of them. Need street oriented bodywork.

Thanks!

 

[Formula390]

The frame is unchanged, so mounting locations are the same where they hit the frame. There are some bodywork mount locations, and while I can't speak to every bodywork manufacturer, the Tyga stuff works across all model years and works also with mix-and-match. For things like the upper, the connection point from the upper to the side panel is retained, and you can use the Tyga side panel and/or Upper with either OEM part. The gas tank cover, battery box cover, chain guard/hugger, and hugger cover can all be used in a mix-and-match fashion between model years. On the later model RCs, the hugger and chain guard were updated to use the Duke's hugger and chain guard, which removed part mixing on those bodywork parts.

The only exception to this is the inner and outer side panels where you can't (for example) take the Tyga Outer BPCX-7231R and mate that to the OEM inner side panel. The reason for this as the connection points were not retained for the panel to panel mounts. It added to much complexity (aka cost) to the molds, so if you were to go with the Tyga Outer BPCX-7231R A panel, you would have to use the Inner BPCX-7331R B panel. Hopefully that makes sense.

Tyga has the street upper, which ditches a TON of weight, and switches over to headlights with hi/low, -=AND=- they are wired up such that you can run both low beams and they stay on when you also flip the Hi beams on. I'm running the carbon upper on the test mule here, and it consistently gets a crowd around it whenever I ride it to watch the GP races at the bar that hosts the races here in Austin.