psych0hans
Member
Any Updates please?
Anyone willing to risk small bucks on these cheap chinese Rearsets?
Any Updates please?
parillaguy
Member
I ordered my set from China last night in a moment of weakness. If they fail like the clip ons I bought from China in the fall then I will just have some more scrap aluminium for projects 
BTW I showed the broken clip on to my friendly expert welder and he identified the problem as a problem with how the part was anodized and not a poor material choice. Nice to know if you have a choice between coloured parts and bare alloy finish...stick to bare metal! parillaguy
BTW I showed the broken clip on to my friendly expert welder and he identified the problem as a problem with how the part was anodized and not a poor material choice. Nice to know if you have a choice between coloured parts and bare alloy finish...stick to bare metal! parillaguy
I ordered my set from China last night in a moment of weakness. If they fail like the clip ons I bought from China in the fall then I will just have some more scrap aluminium for projects
??? Uhmmmmm. No. That's just not how anodization works.
If this is an aluminum part (which it's going to be aluminum or magnesium if it's being anodized) then your welder isn't really quite as informed as I think he thinks he is. Anodizing is basically "pretty rust" which is a few microns deep. It wouldn't induce, or prevent, a break in a part. All it does is basically oxidizes the part (aka rust) and also will allow color to be added in the process... but if the part is breaking, that's TOTALLY materials choice. There are MANY alloys of aluminum, far too many to even attempt discussion of on a motorcycle forum, but a lot of welders think they know a lot more about metallurgy than they actually do. What they REALLY know well, is what alloys they can weld, at what amperage, which material prep needs to be done given material thickness and angle of approach, what filler rod should be used, etc etc etc. What they (generally) DON'T know tho, is what those alloys are good for, which ones are free machining, and which aren't. Which alloys have superior properties for given loads, and which ones don't. Using the wrong alloy in a part MIGHT be no big deal, or it MIGHT mean the part will fail, possibly catastrophically... as aluminum is want to do when it DOES give up the ghost. A "clear" anodization isn't the same thing as "bare alloy" and bare alloy will oxidize. This is that "white powder" type look we've all seen on the UJM Honda motorcycle cases, where the cases and cylinders were cast aluminum and, over time, they develop that hazy white powder look. Well, the exact same thing can happen to all aluminum if it's isn't anodized... Anodizing a part CAN'T cause said part to fail tho! If the part is failing, it's because it's either had it's mechanical properties exceeded, or because the completely wrong alloy was chosen / used for the application.
This is coming from WAY too many years studying and working as a machinist, welder, foundry man, pattern maker, fabricator, and motorcycle wrench.
The Mariner
New Member
Yes, exactly what Matt said. The other variables in the mix with alloy grade is its temper and also whether the source material has been heat treated properly after being wrought. I have seen 6061-T6 bar stock that came with mill certificates fail because it wasn't correctly solution heat treated.
ray
New Member
Bought them, good quality and shipping too. Crashed and tested! I highly recommend them! I really don't see a point in spending 500$ on the other big name ones..
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
Mine just arrived. Shipped fast. I have nothing to complain about on them. Machine work and anodizing looks good. They are engraved with moto-tron.
I will report back when I find some time to install them.
I will report back when I find some time to install them.
psych0hans
Member
Thanks for your input guys, this definitely makes the decision much simpler. Good luck and ride safe!!!
ray
New Member
Yep, just get it. I have a Driven D-Axis rear set for the S1000RR that costs over 500$ and honestly, I don't feel it to be so much better than these Chinese RC rear sets. My bike crashed bad, really bad..the gear shift levers toe end broke and some parts bent a little, very impressed. The stock would have shattered in the 4 pieces at the least. At the most aggressive setting its stays really high and back enough..I will get a second set soon. Shipping was very impressive..so was the packing !
AirRsq
New Member
I have a set on the bike and a spare in the parts box. For $130 each, you can get 2 pair for less than the cost of even the cheapest option available. The craftsmanship, fitment, and look exceeded my expectations. As for crashworthiness, time will tell. That is why I ordered a second set: to save a track weekend if needed. They are certainly light years sexier than the stockers. Adjustability is great. I did have to pull my shift arm off and rotate it back 2 teeth on the spline to allow better fitment of the shift linkage. Without doing this, the linkage is almost at its limit for adjustment.
I actually bought a set of Chinese rearsets from Ebay for my RC 390. The most frustrating part in buying these rearset is that it did not come with any instructions. I used the pictures they posted for reference. Send me a PM if you need help putting these rearset together. For reference, I had experience using Driven and Vortex rearsets. The build quality on these rearsets is not bad and was actually impressed when I received them. The foot peg is cheap and not as aggressive as I would like. The brake and shifter lever doesn't fold. I have done a handful of track days on these rearsets and they are still holding up nicely. I just recommend buying to sets for spares, because they come from China and it might take more than a week to receive. I also recommend using a thread-locker to keep things tight.I bought this rearset to save some money, so I can upgrade the suspension. I hope you find this information useful.
chrisv102581
New Member
Zero instructions, i think i put them on right.... its been too cold and snowy to ride... more to come in the spring
Treachery
Moderator
I'd be interested if someone gave the okay.. plus this thread is pointless without installed pics here..
The farther this thread goes without such...sumbody's gonna get a chewin'.
J/S
Major
New Member
do they accomodate the side stand or are they race only?
psych0hans
Member
He speaks the truth, he does... Lol
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
Yes they support the stock kick stand.
Here are a picture of each side. Sorry it was hard to take a picture of shiny black on a black background. And don't mind the dirt it is raining around here and I was way to excited to get these things installed to waste any time with a bath.
Here are a picture of each side. Sorry it was hard to take a picture of shiny black on a black background. And don't mind the dirt it is raining around here and I was way to excited to get these things installed to waste any time with a bath.
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
I do wish that the heel plates extended about another 3" to the rear. They will keep your toes out of harms way but there is nothing to lock your heel into. Maybe that is desirable so you can rotate your heel further into the bike?
Major
New Member
Thanks, this is a great help!
Treachery
Moderator
Thanks for the pics! Rigid pegs? How's the grip on those?
Ryanthegreat1
New Member
Very grippy. The knurles are very pronounced and sharp. The outer most knurle is also larger in diameter to create a hook. They are however fairly short but I don't feel like they are too short.
The soild pegs act as frame sliders. They are so far up are rearward I doubt you would ever get them to touch down even with slicks and a fast rider.
The soild pegs act as frame sliders. They are so far up are rearward I doubt you would ever get them to touch down even with slicks and a fast rider.
Major
New Member
Just won an auction on ebay for a black set of these. Thanks for all the info.