big_sur's Race Build

[ArkansasDave]

Well this guy, Brian?, said he has raced the past three seasons on an R6 but will be new to the 400 class on the R3 next year. I think there's basically three fast guys in the class right now, two R3's (Hammer and Absolon) and a Ninja 300 (Jackson). They all run under 2:10 race pace.

Lucky, I have to race against 3 of the top 10 motoamerica kids plus a couple old guys that have been racing lightweight bikes since I was born, and one of them is the 3rd overall rider in the club.

 

[tecknojoe]

Well this guy, Brian?, said he has raced the past three seasons on an R6 but will be new to the 400 class on the R3 next year. I think there's basically three fast guys in the class right now, two R3's (Hammer and Absolon) and a Ninja 300 (Jackson). They all run under 2:10 race pace.

Brian who? Might recognize him, but I was out of the paddock all last year and the first 2 rounds this year, so I've been a bit out of touch. Anyone racing at Hammer's pace is full retard. Since I'm new to lightweight too, it's hard to compare, but I believe 2:10 is going to be a big challenge. I've been able to get under 2:00... on an R6. Not sure if I'll keep it to race middleweight as well, or just do lightweight. As soon as I have my forks done I'll be ready to get out on track asap. My rearsets will be in tomorrow, and I'm on the JRI group buy as well.

 

[big_sur]

I dk his last name but shorter, kind of heavy, bearded. Had a smaller gray trailer.

I was running with a 675 for a little while and he said he was doing 2:15's and he was slowing me down a little so I think with tires, suspension, less weight, more power, and more time on the bike, 2:10's is doable. I'm also leaving a decent amount of time in 10, 2, and 3. Now getting down below that....might be a matter of how hard you're willing to push. That said, same rider, the RC should be faster than an R3. I probably am 30lbs lighter than Brian?, but I was able to pull him hard on the straights so I'm hoping that will even things up a bit if you're not willing to go full retard.

Honestly, if you're going to wait on forks, I'd probably wait on the shock. The stock front end felt fine because the lowest common denominator is definitely the shock; it's very limiting. I'm sure replacing the shock will expose the limitations of the front though.

Also, note on gearing, the stock gearing is really not bad for pueblo or HPR. By the end of the day at HPR, I was topping it out pretty consistently, but I feel like an extra 250rpm from the power commander will fix that. There's also a "barely" shift between 5 and 6 that would be nice to get rid of it but it's not aggregious. I might just get some sprockets and take a lapping day to play around with different options.

 

[tecknojoe]

I dk his last name but shorter, kind of heavy, bearded. Had a smaller gray trailer.

I was running with a 675 for a little while and he said he was doing 2:15's and he was slowing me down a little so I think with tires, suspension, less weight, more power, and more time on the bike, 2:10's is doable. I'm also leaving a decent amount of time in 10, 2, and 3. Now getting down below that....might be a matter of how hard you're willing to push. That said, same rider, the RC should be faster than an R3. I probably am 30lbs lighter than Brian?, but I was able to pull him hard on the straights so I'm hoping that will even things up a bit if you're not willing to go full retard.

Honestly, if you're going to wait on forks, I'd probably wait on the shock. The stock front end felt fine because the lowest common denominator is definitely the shock; it's very limiting. I'm sure replacing the shock will expose the limitations of the front though.

Also, note on gearing, the stock gearing is really not bad for pueblo or HPR. By the end of the day at HPR, I was topping it out pretty consistently, but I feel like an extra 250rpm from the power commander will fix that. There's also a "barely" shift between 5 and 6 that would be nice to get rid of it but it's not aggregious. I might just get some sprockets and take a lapping day to play around with different options.

Nice, I was going to ask about the gearing.

It looks like I might be dropping the bike with the suspension guy this week, so I'll have him do that while I wait on the rear shock. So probly a few weeks before I can get the bike on track. Bummer, but I need to focus on the last round in a couple weeks anyway.

 

[big_sur]

Who is doing your suspension? I think the other RC went RG3, but I'll likely go STM.

 

[tecknojoe]

Yep, STM. I've worked with Dave before, and asked if he'd be interested in working on the new bike. Hopefully will drop it off this week.

 

[big_sur]

So I went to get new tires today and I was completely off on the guys name with the R3. Apparently his name is Phil.

New tires - I had a set of GP-A Pro's on the Super Duke and the rear was done, but the front had plenty left so I took the 120/70 GP-A Pro off that and put it on the front of the RC mated to an a13 rear. With the stock tires (stock suspension but with rearsets and belly pan removed), I was using most of the front but had a bit of the rear that wasn't seeing ground. I'm hoping that a little meatier front will let me use the entirety of the rear. I'm definitely going to try pirelli's before next season but I'm anxious to see if the 120/150 combo works out, but if not, you can go down to 110/140 with the Pirellis. I might see if I can ride down to PPIR to stalk the competition and see what everybody is running.

Front Rosso II

Rear

Also of note from it's first track experience, if you get the driven rearsets, make sure this pivot where the shift lever connects to the main rearset is tight (under the "USA" in photo). It comes preassembled from the factory but mine got really loose and I had to put it in a vice and mar it all up to tighten it with some loctite.

 

[tecknojoe]

Nice. I just got my driven rearsets in today, putting them on in a bit.

Let me know if you're coming to PPIR, I'll be there racing that Saturday on the R6

 

[big_sur]

So got the 120 mounted up and it fits fine but I'm going to have to modify the fender a bit to get tire warmers to fit without tearing them up. Alternatively, anyone know if there are other fender options with more clearance?

Warmers are rubbing\catching on this plastic joint in the middle

 

[ArkansasDave]

Tyga is the only other option I've seen but I bet it's an exact copy of the one you have.

 

[psych0hans]

How about trying the duke fender? It should bolt right up.

 

[big_sur]

I ended up just taking a dremel to it and cutting out some plastic with duct tape over it. This works much better with the warmers and is still structurally sound with the two bolts.

I also changed the oil which had a weekend of track time on it, but was fresh from the 650 mile service. While the oil looked used, I was pleasantly surprised to find nothing in the oil screens.

 

[Fasteddy]

How about trying the duke fender? It should bolt right up.

Check this previous thread out. I have both the Duke chain and splash guards waiting to go on just for the improvement in looks

http://www.rc390-forum.com/forum/ap...-cover-rear-hugger.html?highlight=90104050000

 

[big_sur]

Interesting, the stock one is a PITA to take off. I assume you can just get the splash guard (90104050000 ) and use existing hardware for that, but do you need the "kit" (90104060110 ) for the chain guard or just the plastic piece itself (90104060000)?

 

[Fasteddy]

Interesting, the stock one is a PITA to take off. I assume you can just get the splash guard (90104050000 ) and use existing hardware for that, but do you need the "kit" (90104060110 ) for the chain guard or just the plastic piece itself (90104060000)?

I haven,t done it yet, BUT, I have looked it all over and it appears you only need the plastic piece itself and that is what I ordered (it comes as a flat part that you fold into shape), it looks like all the RC hardware will work for the Little Duke setup, I rode the SuperDuke today so the RC is cold in the garage, I will let you know how it goes in an hour or two. please standby....

 

[Fasteddy]

DONE!

Took longer to take off old then put on new, used original hardware as needed, Show stopper, forgot to order cheap sticker that shows how to check chain tension ;^)

One piece I I did not get was the cable holder / line cover that is listed on parts finder.

MUCH nicer, mud guard uses two cup washers and bolts, chain guard uses the nut that goes on bolt through chain slide / plastic self thread bolt at back / long machine bolt into swing arm that is where heel guard is in the way, had to compress suspension to remove and install.

Thanks to Ryan... / DCMoney for the info in the linked thread!

View attachment 1395

Here are oversize pics...

View attachment 1390View attachment 1391View attachment 1394View attachment 1396

 

[Willasan]

Did the same mod, but I left off the Duke chain guard and put on just the mud guard. Super quick and you can reuse all the stock hardware. I did buy the Duke chain guard, so if anyone in Socal wants it, let me know. Still in the plastic.

 

[Rocketracer11]

I modded 4 small brackets to raise the fender 1/2 inch to clear the tire and warmers... Easy

 

[big_sur]

So got the new 120 front, 150 rear combination on and took it to IMI (kart track) for a few sessions Friday afternoon. I went with a friend that races a 250 and while I could pull tenths, I was hoping to be a bit faster. The tires were a lot better, but the rear end is definitely still the weak link. The tires seem pretty balanced with the 120/150 combo, and I think I'll definitely keep the 150 rear, but I'd like to try the 120 front next to the 110 front once the suspension is done.

Front

Rear

In other news, the exhaust came so I got the old one out and got the header marked for the PCV's O2 sensor. The old one was jammed in there pretty good and required some persuasion to get out. Make sure you remove the lower fairing mount as it's in the way. They say you should put the O2 bung as close to the exhaust ports as possible, but they also say it should be between 9 and 3 so next to the throttle body seems to be the first decent place. There's a reasonable amount of clearance there and it's before the collector or expansion chamber thing so hopefully that will do okay.

Got rid of all the little warning stickers and awaiting some bung welding. Looking at it, I'll probably just keep the stock chainguard\fender because it seems like it'd be better at preventing body parts from entering the wheel area.

 

[Formula390]

I modded 4 small brackets to raise the fender 1/2 inch to clear the tire and warmers... Easy

That was my thought as well... "Why not just put a spacer in there for the stock fender???"