VAG944
New Member
Oh okay good........I was hoping I wasn't mistaken on the general public or I've just live in shitty areas with shitty people. 
guzz46
New Member
Ok, so here's some footage of the trackday I did today, A class, on a fast track where almost everyone out there had big bikes, my track knowledge is lacking because I've only been out there about 5 times in the span of about 17 years, its a shame about the sticker on the windscreen, I didn't even realize it was in front of the camera until I got home.
Session 1
[video=youtube;GImwjXzf1_I]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GImwjXzf1_I[/video]
Session 2
[video=youtube;FfsUwUa66Rw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfsUwUa66Rw[/video]
Session 3
[video=youtube;8ATqS2bfXDI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ATqS2bfXDI[/video]
The Alpha-13's performed really really well, they felt about as tacky to the touch as Metzeler Racetec's that were on a GSXR750 K6 parked beside me (which happened to be using tyre warmers)
Session 1
[video=youtube;GImwjXzf1_I]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GImwjXzf1_I[/video]
Session 2
[video=youtube;FfsUwUa66Rw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfsUwUa66Rw[/video]
Session 3
[video=youtube;8ATqS2bfXDI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ATqS2bfXDI[/video]
The Alpha-13's performed really really well, they felt about as tacky to the touch as Metzeler Racetec's that were on a GSXR750 K6 parked beside me (which happened to be using tyre warmers)
Attachments
I'm so jealous! Thanks for sharing the video!
guzz46
New Member
The weather was a bit average today so I decided to have a play around with the bike, it turns out you can't just pull the ABS fuse, because if you do the speedo won't work, the ABS wheel speed sensor is also the speedo sensor, so it looks like you'll have to disable ABS via the button on the dash every time you start the bike, unless you buy a dongle from KTM.
Also in an effort to get the total weight savings down to 7kg I removed the toolkit and the plastic toolkit holder, which brought it to 6.94kg, not quite there yet, so I removed the rubber from underneath the battery and that did the trick, I've now saved a total of 7kg, so now it effectively weighs 140kg dry, the same as an Aprilia RS250.
And out of curiosity I weighed the bike using the bathroom scales technique, it had just over a litre of gas in the tank, I don't know how manufactures weigh their bikes, or if they fudge their numbers, but the rear end weighed 70kg, and the front end weighed 80kg, so roughly about 149kg without fuel, and roughly about 156kg with a full tank, as far as I can tell the bathroom scales technique should be fairly accurate, I wish I had weighed my previous bikes just to see how the numbers stack up to the manufactures claims.
Oh, and how about these, some carbon fiber BST wheels BST Carbon Fibre Wheels for KTM RC390 2013> Onwards
For nearly have the price of the entire bike!
Also in an effort to get the total weight savings down to 7kg I removed the toolkit and the plastic toolkit holder, which brought it to 6.94kg, not quite there yet, so I removed the rubber from underneath the battery and that did the trick, I've now saved a total of 7kg, so now it effectively weighs 140kg dry, the same as an Aprilia RS250.
And out of curiosity I weighed the bike using the bathroom scales technique, it had just over a litre of gas in the tank, I don't know how manufactures weigh their bikes, or if they fudge their numbers, but the rear end weighed 70kg, and the front end weighed 80kg, so roughly about 149kg without fuel, and roughly about 156kg with a full tank, as far as I can tell the bathroom scales technique should be fairly accurate, I wish I had weighed my previous bikes just to see how the numbers stack up to the manufactures claims.
Oh, and how about these, some carbon fiber BST wheels BST Carbon Fibre Wheels for KTM RC390 2013> Onwards
For nearly have the price of the entire bike!
Attachments
Last edited:
Treachery
Moderator
Gawd. Those wheels will put you into a sweat. But the UKP-USD conversion puts it at well more than half the cost of a whole bike.
Sigh.
Sigh.
guzz46
New Member
I found a way to permanently disable ABS, both front and rear, disconnect the rear sensor cable, it connects up by the rear brake reservoir, the ABS light on the dash stays on as opposed to flashing when you temporarily disable it via the dash, and the speedo still works
Treachery
Moderator
Dude's on a mission. Gonna end up with a rubber-band powered bicycle when 'es done.
Scratcher
New Member
Thank you Guzz46 for all your posts. I love sitting on your bike going around the track, awesome vids and nice riding.
I'll be safety-wiring mine come March/April when it arrives here in OHIO. I live about 10 minutes from KTM-USA!
I'll be safety-wiring mine come March/April when it arrives here in OHIO. I live about 10 minutes from KTM-USA!
Thanks Guzz.
Have be you found a way to disable the side stand sensor? Normally it's two wires and you just solder them together. However the KTM has 3 and I tried every combo and it didn't work. From reading some other KTM forums a resistor is necessary. Also, the Indian forums have a plug in sensor that deletes the sensor and I'm trying to get my hands on some.
Fos
Have be you found a way to disable the side stand sensor? Normally it's two wires and you just solder them together. However the KTM has 3 and I tried every combo and it didn't work. From reading some other KTM forums a resistor is necessary. Also, the Indian forums have a plug in sensor that deletes the sensor and I'm trying to get my hands on some.
Fos
guzz46
New Member
No sorry, I don't have any reason to bypass the side stand sensor so I haven't looked into it, there is a side stand bypass switch for a KTM 690, 950, 990, but I don't know if it would work on the RC390
Sidestand Switch Bypass/ Dummy Plug for KTM 690, 950, 990 | Slavens Racing
Treachery
Moderator
Having put an older bike (without a sidestand switch) into the ditch...immediately after hearing the stand touch down...I like sidestand lockouts.
KwicK To Master KTM
New Member
Firstly I would like to say thanks to all the posts here they have been super helpful in making minor tweeks and adjustments to improve a already great bike set up.
Hey Guzz fellow Kiwi - I have set my bike up very similar to yours and it just gets better and better with use - Here is a list below what I have done.
Changed the rear tail light holder to the R& G great visual improvement.
Lowered the front by 6 mm to the second ring on the forks & #7 on the preload vast improvement in handling .
Tried the bar end mirrors but went back to the original just didn't fit my riding style but was worth a go.
I agree with you too, regarding the front brake, it works a treat but I have splashed out on the genuine Power Parts brake and clutch levers - although they were $188.00 each Aus $ they are worth their weight in gold - even more feel through the brake plus way better clutch adjustment
and feel as the original clutch lever just didn't seem to line up with the cable the best and felt notchy if you know what I mean. Conclusion - these levers are very well made and not just some relabelled aftermarket part.
I have kept my original tyres on as they work fine for me but that is a personal thing but I do see they do not match each other in even angle wear.
Thanks for the heads up on the oil levels - I too was concerned with not seeing the oil in the sight glass but just took your advice and kept it standard from factory.
I also purchased the tank and leg protective stickers - good move I say.
Same issue here with vibration of the battery cover at a certain rev - must look into that.
I initially had some problems with the bike hard to start if stalled and once it cut out when pulling up to an intersection but I gave it slightly more idle speed and with it smoothing out with extra K's on the clock all good now.
Another thing to do if it bugs anyone is to remove the throttle bar end weight and take the smallest of margins off the end that is inside the bar - This stops the throttle from wobbling all over the place and know feels heaps better - Be care full not to take too much off and bind the throttle!!!
My opinion of the RC 390 is this is a great fun bike and just smooths out with use. I come from an area more like Guzz with ZXR 400 - RGV 250 - RD 350 - Xr 500 even a Suzuki impulse 400 love my small quick bikes .
Tomorrow I have my 1000 K service and will be putting on a full Fuel Exhuast from England - Personally I hate the sound of the RC 390 but hey I'm a deaf old bugger and ride by sound more than feel - Will let you all know how the pipe goes . Cheers Rod
Hey Guzz fellow Kiwi - I have set my bike up very similar to yours and it just gets better and better with use - Here is a list below what I have done.
Changed the rear tail light holder to the R& G great visual improvement.
Lowered the front by 6 mm to the second ring on the forks & #7 on the preload vast improvement in handling .
Tried the bar end mirrors but went back to the original just didn't fit my riding style but was worth a go.
I agree with you too, regarding the front brake, it works a treat but I have splashed out on the genuine Power Parts brake and clutch levers - although they were $188.00 each Aus $ they are worth their weight in gold - even more feel through the brake plus way better clutch adjustment
and feel as the original clutch lever just didn't seem to line up with the cable the best and felt notchy if you know what I mean. Conclusion - these levers are very well made and not just some relabelled aftermarket part.
I have kept my original tyres on as they work fine for me but that is a personal thing but I do see they do not match each other in even angle wear.
Thanks for the heads up on the oil levels - I too was concerned with not seeing the oil in the sight glass but just took your advice and kept it standard from factory.
I also purchased the tank and leg protective stickers - good move I say.
Same issue here with vibration of the battery cover at a certain rev - must look into that.
I initially had some problems with the bike hard to start if stalled and once it cut out when pulling up to an intersection but I gave it slightly more idle speed and with it smoothing out with extra K's on the clock all good now.
Another thing to do if it bugs anyone is to remove the throttle bar end weight and take the smallest of margins off the end that is inside the bar - This stops the throttle from wobbling all over the place and know feels heaps better - Be care full not to take too much off and bind the throttle!!!
My opinion of the RC 390 is this is a great fun bike and just smooths out with use. I come from an area more like Guzz with ZXR 400 - RGV 250 - RD 350 - Xr 500 even a Suzuki impulse 400 love my small quick bikes .
Tomorrow I have my 1000 K service and will be putting on a full Fuel Exhuast from England - Personally I hate the sound of the RC 390 but hey I'm a deaf old bugger and ride by sound more than feel - Will let you all know how the pipe goes . Cheers Rod
guzz46
New Member
I brought the power parts brake lever too, its surprising how much effect having the lever at the right distance for the span of your hand makes, it makes the front brake feel even more powerful, my clutch lever felt fine so I didn't bother forking out for the power parts clutch lever.
I stuck a small piece of rubber on the middle tab of the battery cover (the one inline with the fuel cap) and that seems to have stopped the vibration, I haven't had any stalls or hard starts, barring my taller profile rear tyre we both have the same suspension setup, the bike handles like a dream.
The other mod I did was permanetly disabling ABS by disconnecting the rear ABS sensor cable, and putting some black duct tape over the ABS light on the dash.
What exhaust are you getting? I wouldn't mind an exhaust bike I like the look of the exhaust integrated into the bellypan.
I stuck a small piece of rubber on the middle tab of the battery cover (the one inline with the fuel cap) and that seems to have stopped the vibration, I haven't had any stalls or hard starts, barring my taller profile rear tyre we both have the same suspension setup, the bike handles like a dream.
The other mod I did was permanetly disabling ABS by disconnecting the rear ABS sensor cable, and putting some black duct tape over the ABS light on the dash.
What exhaust are you getting? I wouldn't mind an exhaust bike I like the look of the exhaust integrated into the bellypan.
KwicK To Master KTM
New Member
Yea I agree regarding the look of the original exhaust from the belly pan but to me the bike when at low revs sounds like one of those old toys the monkey with the drums most people will have no idea what I am refering to.
The exhaust is a "Fuel" Brand I'm not really that clued up on this pipe - They are made in England and are selling on E-bay - I paid $650.00 $AU for the pipe and also getting the laser cut bracket that bolts directly to the removed foot peg bracket.
The pipe is a carbon finish and replaces back to the pipe that leads from the header. Fitting tomorrow night will post some photos probably by Wednesday.
I really wanted a Yoshimera (Opp's spelling) but could only see them available for the Duke 390 so I will see how the Fuel Pipe goes .
Thanks for the info on the rattling battery cover
I'm thinking for now I will keep the ABS all connected we have some pretty slippery roads over here during the wet season not to mention the oil everywhere. Give me a NZ road anytime !!!!
The exhaust is a "Fuel" Brand I'm not really that clued up on this pipe - They are made in England and are selling on E-bay - I paid $650.00 $AU for the pipe and also getting the laser cut bracket that bolts directly to the removed foot peg bracket.
The pipe is a carbon finish and replaces back to the pipe that leads from the header. Fitting tomorrow night will post some photos probably by Wednesday.
I really wanted a Yoshimera (Opp's spelling) but could only see them available for the Duke 390 so I will see how the Fuel Pipe goes .
Thanks for the info on the rattling battery cover
I'm thinking for now I will keep the ABS all connected we have some pretty slippery roads over here during the wet season not to mention the oil everywhere. Give me a NZ road anytime !!!!
Treachery
Moderator
Gotta think on that exhaust. I see that they have both a round CF canister and an oval black stainless one. I'd be interested in how difficult the swap is; so as to switch back for trips to the shop.
Scratcher
New Member
I gotta check with Hans over at HMF to build an exhaust that stays under the belly pan. I let him borrow my RC51 to use as a pattern back in the day.
Interesting. I noticed some vibration as well and thought it was the windscreen as I was lazy and didn't remount the bottom two screws to the fairing.
KwicK To Master KTM
New Member
Ok Fitted the new pipe - It is a" Fuel" Oval Carbon Body with carbon end . Looks great
As for removing the original pipe it certainly does not just drop out - The trick is to remove all the bolts (Obvious) and wriggle the pipe from side to side to loosen it all at the join - then lightly pry the tabs on the pipe where it connects to the header pipe with the old l technical screwdriver tool !!!
Wriggle the connection as far back as you can until the muffler touches the swing arm and this is where I got stuck !!
It needs to come back around a further 5 mm before letting go - Finally I figured it - just push down on the rear suspension and at all seems to sort of drop out. As for putting the original back in - Good luck with that
Fitting the new pipe was pretty straight forward .
Verdict - The original muffler weighs a ton - I have not weighed it but it is damn heavy compared to the after market one . At first the new pipe looked a little strange as it leaves a large gap between the swing arm and motor but I got used to the look very quickly .
I did like the look of the original meaning not sticking out the side but as soon as I started the bike and went for a ride I was sold - It smooths out the bike completely and easier to ride at lower revs In my opinion it transforms the bike and now sounds and goes as good as the RC looks .
As for removing the original pipe it certainly does not just drop out - The trick is to remove all the bolts (Obvious) and wriggle the pipe from side to side to loosen it all at the join - then lightly pry the tabs on the pipe where it connects to the header pipe with the old l technical screwdriver tool !!!
Wriggle the connection as far back as you can until the muffler touches the swing arm and this is where I got stuck !!
It needs to come back around a further 5 mm before letting go - Finally I figured it - just push down on the rear suspension and at all seems to sort of drop out. As for putting the original back in - Good luck with that
Fitting the new pipe was pretty straight forward .
Verdict - The original muffler weighs a ton - I have not weighed it but it is damn heavy compared to the after market one . At first the new pipe looked a little strange as it leaves a large gap between the swing arm and motor but I got used to the look very quickly .
I did like the look of the original meaning not sticking out the side but as soon as I started the bike and went for a ride I was sold - It smooths out the bike completely and easier to ride at lower revs In my opinion it transforms the bike and now sounds and goes as good as the RC looks .
KwicK To Master KTM
New Member
Guzz 46 has the answer to the vibration sound on post #74
