You can do it a lot easier if you just grind out the top snap ring groove to easily get the cap out. It does destroy it, but it's much less of a PITA and significantly quicker. You can then use the Racetech (part number SYSH 4014) replacement head w/shrader valve in it already. The new head is then seated under the under where the second circlip resides. Wroks a peach. I was unsure if the bladder and bladder cap were also required, or if that was a different option/method of going about rebuilding as I'm unsure what the bladder/bladder cap in their product listing is in regards to the OEM R6 shock. All the shocks I've rebuilt in the past have had remote reservoirs. This is the first time I've dug into a shock which has the reservoir as part of the actual casting of the top of the shock. It looks like the internals with otherwise be completely familiar. Not like this stuff is complete rocket science. It is, after all... Voodoo! LOL I'm going to try it with the stock valving as a test first to see how it does and determine if rebuild is required in general for all cases, or (hopefully not) if it can be left alone so it's easier for more folks to do as swapping a spring is likely in the realms of possibilities for near everyone and not as difficult for a novice wrench to tackle who might otherwise be put off tearing the shock completely apart. The easier it is to do, the more likely more people will be able to take advantage of the mod.
I can install the basics, do an oil change, stuff like that. Only real experience w engines is working on 2 strokes a bit. So i am betting i would be a good test of this mod being easy enough for someone w basic wrench turning skills to do this.
