Back from the Dyno 44 bhp @ the wheel

G

GOJO

New Member
image.jpgimage.jpg
List of Mod's
Akro flash
bmc air filter (open lid)
mivv Ghibli exhaust
power commander 5 with a chad map for high comp gasket 42bhp before dyno
cometic high comp gasket (permatex used)
head and barrel machined
3 angle cut of valve seats and vac tested
porting to inlet and exhaust tract
port match of inlet rubber to head and exhaust port opened out and welds smoothed out in front pipe flange
throttle body smoothed out and top side radiused out by 2-3mm and threads and torx head of butterfly bolts reduced.
valve clearances set
exhaust front pipe wrapped in heat cloth tape.
motul 300v 15/50
had some high grade stainless steel washers made for the head bolts slightly oversize (diameter) as its clear that the cap head has pressed its self into the washer.
while apart i also added ti valve retainers and collets and single valve springs and the slightly shorter spark plug from chad, cam pulley bolts re loctited , water pump nut changed for a stainless steel nyloc and loctited .
Ape manual cam chain tensioner
factory pro shift detent lever
TSS slipper clutch
spal fan
1.6 bar rad cap
radiator moved forward by 8-10mm (need to trim inner fairings along from rad edge if you do this)
radiator air guide removed and mesh to protect from stones fitted.
also has the samco hoses with thermostat delete, cooling system filled with distilled water.
engine rubber cover is removed , fuel tank has been covered in heat reflective tape top and bottom
if it still suffers high temps at next track day ive a comapny who will make me a replica of the rad with a 10 or 15 deeper core .
it also has a strain gauge quick shifter fitted.
think i might get some second hand cams and send them off for grinding.
 
I

isaac_

New Member
GOJO said:
View attachment 4009View attachment 4010
List of Mod's
Akro flash
bmc air filter (open lid)
mivv Ghibli exhaust
power commander 5 with a chad map for high comp gasket 42bhp before dyno
cometic high comp gasket (permatex used)
head and barrel machined
3 angle cut of valve seats and vac tested
porting to inlet and exhaust tract
port match of inlet rubber to head and exhaust port opened out and welds smoothed out in front pipe flange
throttle body smoothed out and top side radiused out by 2-3mm and threads and torx head of butterfly bolts reduced.
valve clearances set
exhaust front pipe wrapped in heat cloth tape.
motul 300v 15/50
had some high grade stainless steel washers made for the head bolts slightly oversize (diameter) as its clear that the cap head has pressed its self into the washer.
while apart i also added ti valve retainers and collets and single valve springs and the slightly shorter spark plug from chad, cam pulley bolts re loctited , water pump nut changed for a stainless steel nyloc and loctited .
Ape manual cam chain tensioner
factory pro shift detent lever
TSS slipper clutch
spal fan
1.6 bar rad cap
radiator moved forward by 8-10mm (need to trim inner fairings along from rad edge if you do this)
radiator air guide removed and mesh to protect from stones fitted.
also has the samco hoses with thermostat delete, cooling system filled with distilled water.
engine rubber cover is removed , fuel tank has been covered in heat reflective tape top and bottom
if it still suffers high temps at next track day ive a comapny who will make me a replica of the rad with a 10 or 15 deeper core .
it also has a strain gauge quick shifter fitted.
think i might get some second hand cams and send them off for grinding.
Click to expand...

That's awesome! Couple of questions

  1. How do you compare the motul 300v 15/50 vs their 10/40 performance wise. Right now I run 10/40 and haven't tried the 15/50.
  2. What is the benefit of moving the radiator forward?
  3. Do you see a benefit of using the SAMCO hoses?
  4. How do you like the TSS slipper clutch? Is this the same as a Yoyo slipper?
 
G

GOJO

New Member
Tss is the maker of the yoydene , a little notch on the lever similar to other slippers (only done 2 small road tests as ive no number plate etc)
15/50 is the reccomended oil i looked into the working temp ranges and compared to the running temps of the bike
spacing the rad forward allows more air to flow around while hopefully reducing heat transfer a little from the engine and exhaust , every little helps with this thing and its easy i just used some deep stainless washers between the frame and the rubber bobbin and the bobbin and the rad just so the thread is clear of the shakeproof nut.
 
Michelle

Michelle

New Member
That Sir is an AMAZING looking bike ,, WOW I can see a lot of love and time has gone into that bike..... I am changing over to Motul 10w40 semi synthetic today ,, I put it in my last bike and really liked it..
At the moment I have 15w50 what they recommend , its not only expensive £13 pounds up its hard to find ,, I have to go to a ktm dealer for it..
Also I find when the bike is at running temp I can feel the gears more ,, Obviously I know when oil gets hot it becomes more watery if that is the right word to use.
So I am going to try Motul 10w40 , I found that to be really good even when hot...

Liquefies that the word ,, my husband just told me lol....
 
Last edited:
G

GOJO

New Member
For a bike that runs hot the 15/50 offers more protection at working temps yes its dearer but it only holds 1600ml so a 4ltr can will do 2 oil changes and when on the 2nd can of oil you may get 5 changes from 8 litres @1600ml filling. Mines just for the track so upper operating temp is more for critical high rpm high oil temps.
direct distribution sell the motul 300v 15/50
 
Michelle

Michelle

New Member
Yeah I understand that ;) , mine runs one bar less anyway since I put my fueling module on.
I did not get 4ltr to see how many oil changes I can get out of it ,, I got it because it worked well in my last bike but we will see how it goes...
If it does not work well I will change it back..
 
streetfighter

streetfighter

New Member
You mentioned 42bhp before dyno with high compression gasket, what mod gave the RC the extra 2bhp at dyno?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
D

Deleted member 452

Guest
GOJO said:
For a bike that runs hot the 15/50 offers more protection at working temps yes its dearer but it only holds 1600ml so a 4ltr can will do 2 oil changes and when on the 2nd can of oil you may get 5 changes from 8 litres @1600ml filling. Mines just for the track so upper operating temp is more for critical high rpm high oil temps.
direct distribution sell the motul 300v 15/50
Click to expand...

FYI- Our engines hold 1.7L (1.8 Qt.s) according to the manual- Not 1600ml.
 
D

Deleted member 452

Guest
That would explain why my oil level is a little low after changing oil... I thought it was burning some oil but I'll check the level using KTM's procedure immediately after changing my oil next time and will measure exactly how much oil is needed on my bike so I can just measure and pour on all subsequent oil changes.
 
D

Diploman

New Member
After draining the hot oil, pulling and replacing the filter, cleaning the screens putting everything back together, I refill the sump with exactly 1.6L of measured oil. I realize the manual calls for 1.7L, but I cannot be certain that every drop of the old oil has drained - I suspect a small quantity remains in the engine's nooks and crannies. If this is so, adding 1.7L would result in an overfill: perhaps insignificant, but possibly enough to create mischief. Potential consequences of an overfill on the 390 (very easy to overfill, it appears) include cavitation, aeration, air/oil emulsion in the lube circuits, crankshaft drag w/ power loss, excess pressure on seals, etc. A slight underfill is, IMO, less risky than the converse. I think 1.6L plus residual crankcase oil likely comes closer to the manual's 1.7L prescription than does 1.7L plus residual oil. I prefer to be cautious with 390 oil levels. When the engine is cold, 1.6L is visible around the low mark on the sight glass - when hot this volume shows near the middle of the glass.
 
I

isaac_

New Member
Man... people on here would throw a fit if they knew I didn't measure the oil I put in. I just toss as much needed to get it between the low and high on the sight glass.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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