EVAP + Airbox + Crankcase plumbing questions

[mattv]

Removed the EVAP stuff today and decided to play around with replacing the airbox with a pod filter. I'm guessing this bike isn't the best fit for that setup, but would like to try it.

Here's what I did:

• EVAP canister plumbing removed
• Left the EVAP solenoid electrical connector plugged in
• Vacuum cap on the throttle body

• Airbox removed, pod filter installed
• Crankcase breather hose replaced with breather filter
• Vacuum port on cylinder head plugged

Few questions; does this sound about right? Anything I'm doing horribly wrong here?

There are two hose hookups on the gas tank. One is for overflow. Is the other for the EVAP system? I can't remember what was hooked up to it. Should the non-overflow hookup be plugged?

 

[green_bread]

What are you using for fuel tuning? Unless youre correcting the A/F ratio, Im going to go ahead and say your bike is going to run like crap. The exhaust is finicky about length, etc... the intake is even more finicky about that stuff.

 

[mattv]

Yeah, I should've mentioned that I installed a PowerTRONIC ecu.

 

[green_bread]

Ok, good deal! Other than that, it sounds like youve covered everything, as far as blocking off the ports, etc.

 

[mattv]

Thanks, green_bread. Do you know what the second hose hookup on the gas tank is for? One I'm sure is overflow. Was the other just an EVAP/emissions thing? If so, I'll just run a hose next to the overflow hose. Or should it be plugged?

 

[green_bread]

I think one is the overflow and the other was the one that went to the charcoal canister, maybe? Its honestly been a REALLY long time since I did mine. I remember that I used the Y shaped tee to connect those two hoses together, then ran a "drain" tube out the bottom of the connector to the belly pan.

 

[mattv]

Thanks, I think you're right. I'll probably route my hoses the same.

Starting to reconsider the pod filter though, for a couple reasons:

1. The intake is right above the exhaust header (hot!)
2. The airbox may help protect some of the wiring from being burnt (I don't want cooked wiring!)
3. Also, it helps to close off the underseat tray so stuff won't fall out or flop around.

 

[john13]

I've ran an open airbox lid and no breather for a couple of months in Los Angeles and no problems with heat. Runs great all the time and with the PCV my butt dyno is happy. I also removed that black rubber POS that they put in there to cover up the cylinder head and no problems there.

 

[green_bread]

I've ran an open airbox lid and no breather for a couple of months in Los Angeles and no problems with heat. Runs great all the time and with the PCV my butt dyno is happy. I also removed that black rubber POS that they put in there to cover up the cylinder head and no problems there.

No airbox lid is a completely different animal than no airbox, at all.

 

[mattv]

Left side hose hookup is overflow, right side is vent or evap thingy. There are two holes under the gas cap that get routed to the hoses. The right side hose gets covered by the gas cap, maybe it has a pressure valve in it.

Blew on the hoses to find out (I blame the heat for not thinking of that before).

Anyway, think I'm going to leave the right side disconnected and open, and route the left side overflow to the Y connector coolant overflow.