My Race Bike + Huge Parts Review

[tecknojoe]

It's finally put together. I took it out for a shakedown this weekend and it feels amazing. This bike FLIES when you put on the right parts, and I believe I've found all the right stuff.
Here's some info on all the parts, including weights for some items, and my feedback of how they feel on the track. Pics below

Part and where it's from:
JRI Shock (Formula390)
Driven Rearsets (Drivenracing.com)
Driven Triple (Drivenracing.com)
Driven Clipons (Drivenracing.com)
Driven key holder (Drivenracing.com)
Tyga Carbon Bellypan (Formula390)
Tyga Carbon Tail (Formula390)
Akrapovic Exhaust - (AOMC.mx)
KTM Race windscreen (AOMC.mx)
Odi Grips (odigrips.com)
Motorex 4T racing oil (motorexusa.com)
Motorex Brake fluid (motorexusa.com)
PCV (Chad - Commonweath)
Brake line kit (Chad - Commonwealth)
Gasket kit (Chad - Commonweath)
Front fork springs + oil (stmsuspension.com)
EBC HH Brake pads (AOMC.mx)
Grapics + numbers (drippinwet.com)
Evotech mirror block offs (evotech-performance.com)
Pirelli supercorsas 140rear (solperformance.com)
Techspec tank grips (techspec-usa.com)
G2 Throttle (g2ergo.com)
KTM Wave 300mm rotor (AOMC.mx)
KTM Brake lever guard (AOMC.mx)
R&G Case savers (rg-racing.com)
R&G Exhaust guard (rg-racing.com)
Driven rear sprocket (Drivenracing.com)

We have certain requirements for our club, so I cannot do some mods (fork cartridges, quick shifter, larger rotor, brake master cyl, etc)

 

[tecknojoe]

The JRI shock is the best part I’ve put on the bike. I cannot emphasize the importance of good suspension enough, and the JRI is a massive improvement. Matt at Formula390 will help you out. He’s done a lot of testing with these bikes and knows his stuff. I had race time with the OEM shock, and it was honestly the most uncomfortable I've ever felt on a motorcycle.


The Driven rearsets are grippy as hell, and I love the look. On track, I have 0 problems with them. They also have great adjustability, which really helps me get my positioning right on the bike.


The Driven triple, clip ons, and ignition holder saved me a LOT of weight. The stock clipons are in a very uncomfortable postition, and adding the clipons gives you better adjustability. I drilled a small hole in the clip on for the throttle housing nub, then placed everything on the clipon, and rotated the clip on bar to the right position within the clamp.


The tyga bodywork is NICE. It’s the nicest bodywork I’ve bought for a bike, and the carbon should hold up well. The tyga foam pad also sticks on and stays there, just take your time to make sure you contour it properly the first time. I did manage to drag my bellypan in one really fast right hander several times, however I may raise the bike a bit to avoid this in the future. I did not drag the exhaust at all.


Akra exhaust - I did a dyno run in stock form, and have another scheduled in a couple weeks. I’ll start a new thread for that. One note: if you use the pitbull strapless trailer stand, it will hit the exhaust when trying to hang it on the bike before locking it into position. I’ll have to make a small pad for it.


The KTM double bubble windscreen is a very good improvement, and allows me to hide behind the windscreen much better. It makes a big difference on the straights


The ODI grips are 100 times better than stock. UGH those stock ones felt like hard plastic! They’re softer and thinner, and I really appreciate that when I’m trying to focus on blipping + braking at high speed


I’m using all motorex fluids. I was surprised at how they make more than just oil, they really make every fluid imaginable. Funny enough, my tuner pulled a bottle of motorex from the shelf and said “you're gonna use this, right?”, I just nodded and smiled at the choice I had made.


The PCV from Chad came with a map based on the description I gave him. It feels GREAT. I’m still doing a custom tune, since I’m racing and want to make sure I have that last 1%, but I hear no popping or backfiring, and the bike feels strong.


Chad’s brake line kit fit perfectly, and I didn’t have to rotate the banjo bolts at all. It’s an annoying install, but the lever feel is worth it. I purposely left off the racing rotor for this weekend so I can compare the improvement. The EBC pads are very strong also.


In the front, I have custom springs and 20wt oil. I may have to revisit it, since the install I’ve lost 5+lbs and I’m not using enough travel. However, I’m confident that springs and oil is all you need for these bikes.


I’m loving the Pirelli Supercorsas. I’m able to get them up to temp and they grab very well. I had a few warnings on the rear, but at least it let me know instead of just all the sudden letting go. I’m running a 140 rear, and will likely stay with that.


The throw on the G2 throttle tube is better than stock, but I’d like just a tiny bit less travel. It’s still a vast improvement so I’ll stick with it for now.

 

[tecknojoe]

Weight savings:
Stock seat + passenger seat: 5.1lbs
Tyga seat: 1.6 lbs (not including the foam)


Stock exhaust (not including header): 11.9lbs
Akra (not including header): 9.6lbs


Stock triple clamp, clip ons, ignition holder, grips: 5.4lbs
Driven triple, clip ons, ignition holder, odi grips: 3lbs


Charcoal can: 10.2oz
headlight cluster: 3lb 7oz
rear license plate bracket: 3lb 8oz
Oem shock: 7lb 2oz (I wish I weighed the JRI, sorry)
Oem front sprocket: 7.3oz
ABS unit + lines: 2.7lbs


I’ll have more weights as I install the remaining parts

If I add everything up, I've saved roughly 17lbs

 

[Deleted member 452]

Good stuff : )

 

[tt2013]

Hi tecknojoe. Do you have any clearance issue with the Driven Halo clip ons? I have a set of clip ons, non Driven, and I have some clearance issue. For example. When the left handlebar is pulled towards the tank the clip on hit the coolant reservoir. When the right handlebar is pulled towards the tank the clip ons hit the battery cover. Nice parts by the way.

 

[tecknojoe]

As I was putting them on, yes, initially I did. On the throttle side, the throttle cable would barely touch the plastic. All I had to do was loosen the bar in the clipon, and rotate it slightly upward. This way the brake resivour didn't hit the dash, and the throttle housing no longer touched the plastic.

If you look closely in my second picture, you can see that my forks are slightly raised out of the clipon. I will be raising the front end by a couple millimeters, as well as the shock. This should give me even more handlebar clearance, as well as bellypan clearance when the bike is at max lean.

 

[ToraTora]

Can't you get a different cam for the G2? I know they have a bunch of different 2-stroke cams--because I've got one!

 

[tecknojoe]

I've sent them an email to see if the size 25 cam would fit for that throttle tube

 

[tecknojoe]

I've sent them an email to see if the size 25 cam would fit for that throttle tube

I heard back from them. The cam that comes on the competition throttle is the biggest one available, so no you can't get any shorter with the G2

-------------------------------

I knew something was dragging in one of the fast right handers. Had to reposition the foot brake knob. A big +1 to driven for having 3 different positions for the folding brake knob alone

I'll be testing this out later today. Judging by the tremendous stoppie I did while bedding the pads, the powerparts rotor is going to be a very good upgrade. Oh and weight:
oem rotor: 4lbs 4.6oz
powerparts rotor: 2lbs 10oz

Race lowers always get chipped to hell, so I decided to try clearbra on my bellypan. It seems to be working for now. It was like 30 bucks on amazon for some 3m stuff

Akra users: I noticed after I installed my exhaust, my pitbull trailer restraint would be banging against it. The problem solved itself, since I just installed the R&G hexagonal exhaust slider. The way it fits, it happens to also provide a little bumper for the trailer restraint, double win.

A note on the exhuast slider: I wanted to put it on the front of the exhaust, but unfortunately, I think the clamp will collide with the swingarm. I may try another solution but it's on the back for now. At least the generic hexagonal slider fits our exhaust.

 

[Hekimpd]

Thanks for all the info. As I sit, I can't decide if brakes or suspension should be done first. Ride on the street only.

 

[tecknojoe]

I hated the stock shock even when I was on a casual ride through the canyons with my buddy. IMO that's the best upgrade possible. My first upgrade was a call to Formula390 for the JRI

 

[MNNTHBX]

Can't you get a different cam for the G2? I know they have a bunch of different 2-stroke cams--because I've got one!

We stock and sell only the faster cam that will fit in the OE housing.

 

[tecknojoe]

My Akrapovic results below. Blue line is completely stock. Now it has the Akra, and PCV. No mods to the air filter / airbox (not permitted).

Note: the max power numbers are off because I told the tuner to stop at 7,500 rpm. That was my mistake, I could've gone higher. Either way, the Akra will give you a couple all over the range, and quite a bit down low.

 

[zaster]

Thanks for starting this thread and sharing your experience. I just got my hands on a 2015 RC390 and was looking on the forum to see what it takes to improve the
bike's capability for track use. My parts list is growing by the minute

 

[tecknojoe]

Thanks for starting this thread and sharing your experience. I just got my hands on a 2015 RC390 and was looking on the forum to see what it takes to improve the
bike's capability for track use. My parts list is growing by the minute

ahhh, that great moment when you realize you suddenly feel the need to spend thousands of more dollars

Definitely start with the JRI shock from Matt at Formula 390, then driven rearsets after that. Then it's all down hill from there

 

[zaster]

ahhh, that great moment when you realize you suddenly feel the need to spend thousands of more dollars

Definitely start with the JRI shock from Matt at Formula 390, then driven rearsets after that. Then it's all down hill from there

No kidding. Luckily I got the bike at a great deal so I have a good excuse to spend some money on upgrades.

 

[reenmachine]

ahhh, that great moment when you realize you suddenly feel the need to spend thousands of more dollars

Definitely start with the JRI shock from Matt at Formula 390, then driven rearsets after that. Then it's all down hill from there

I went middle ground and did Matt's R6 shock upgrade and that along made a huge difference, coupled with proper front springs and oil.

I've been considering rearsets and I'm curious why you think they're a must-have item. I'm asking out of ignorance because this is my first track bike. If I'm not dragging the stock pegs and I'm comfy on the bike is there any reason to do it now? What's the main thing you get out of it?

 

[tecknojoe]

I went middle ground and did Matt's R6 shock upgrade and that along made a huge difference, coupled with proper front springs and oil.

I've been considering rearsets and I'm curious why you think they're a must-have item. I'm asking out of ignorance because this is my first track bike. If I'm not dragging the stock pegs and I'm comfy on the bike is there any reason to do it now? What's the main thing you get out of it?

Yea Matt's R6 shock swap is also an excellent choice, that man knows wtf he is doing.

For rearsets, it's crashability, adjustability, and getting up away from the ground. Since they don't fold when you crash, it'll help keep the bike a little bit off the ground and potentially save you from a lot more expensive of a crash. I've adjusted my driven rearsets several times to get rid of leg cramping, as well as a problem with dragging the brake lever peg (see post on page one). They're also helping me keep my feet a little higher because even if you don't drag pegs, you're likely to drag your toes which SUCKS. Also replacement pegs from driven are cheap so I keep a couple spare pegs and clip on bars in my toolbox, that way if I have a minor crash I may be able to swap out and keep riding. Another thing, if you're running GP shift, it'll be a little smother than GP shift with stock rearsets, and you won't be banging the shifter on the sprocket cover.

Dang that was a long list, but put it all together and you see why those rearsets I bought have been crucial for me.

edit: Oh and the grip. MUCH grippier than stock.

 

[Treachery]

Which exhaust slider/bumper did you get, and from whom?

 

[reenmachine]

Yea Matt's R6 shock swap is also an excellent choice, that man knows wtf he is doing.

For rearsets, it's crashability, adjustability, and getting up away from the ground. Since they don't fold when you crash, it'll help keep the bike a little bit off the ground and potentially save you from a lot more expensive of a crash. I've adjusted my driven rearsets several times to get rid of leg cramping, as well as a problem with dragging the brake lever peg (see post on page one). They're also helping me keep my feet a little higher because even if you don't drag pegs, you're likely to drag your toes which SUCKS. Also replacement pegs from driven are cheap so I keep a couple spare pegs and clip on bars in my toolbox, that way if I have a minor crash I may be able to swap out and keep riding. Another thing, if you're running GP shift, it'll be a little smother than GP shift with stock rearsets, and you won't be banging the shifter on the sprocket cover.

Dang that was a long list, but put it all together and you see why those rearsets I bought have been crucial for me.

edit: Oh and the grip. MUCH grippier than stock.

Great response, thanks! Off to spend more money.