New Bike

guzz46

New Member
So I just brought and installed an Earthx ETX12B battery, quite a pricey battery but its a 2.64kg weight savings, the original battery weighed 3.24kg, and the Earthx weighed 0.6kg, the bike turns over quicker too, and just sitting on the bike and flicking it from side to side feels a bit lighter as well.
So too sum up, the R&G tail tidy and removing the rear footpegs saves 2.27kg, removing the mirrors and end bar weights and using bar end mirrors saves 1.33kg, and the ETX12B battery saves 2.64kg, for a total weight savings of 6.24kg.
I think that's about as far as I can go in the weight savings department without spending huge money on things like light weight wheels, which I'm not going to do, but maybe an exhaust some time down the track, if someone makes a good looking one without a cat.
 

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JRRSKY

New Member
Just curious what's the purpose on bar end weights, and also does this bike have hazard lights (4 way flasher)?
 

guzz46

New Member
Just curious what's the purpose on bar end weights, and also does this bike have hazard lights (4 way flasher)?

Bar end weights are there to dampen vibration through the handle bars, but I didn't notice any increase in vibration by removing them, of course bar end mirrors will do a similar job anyway, the bar end weights weigh 0.23kg each, and the bar end mirrors weigh 0.12kg each.
There's no hazard lights, I've never owned a bike that's had hazard lights.

If you really want to get anal about weight savings, removing the tool kit will save 0.58kg, that would bring total weight savings to 6.82kg or 15 pounds, I think I'll keep the tool kit though, you never know when it could come in handy.
 
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B7ACKTHORN

Member
Country flag
That's pretty much an excellent weight reduction regimen for an already fit motorcycle, without pinching the pocket much! And BTW how much did the battery cost? I guess, they are the same volts and Ah readings as OE?

Cheers!
V
 

guzz46

New Member
That's pretty much an excellent weight reduction regimen for an already fit motorcycle, without pinching the pocket much! And BTW how much did the battery cost? I guess, they are the same volts and Ah readings as OE?

Cheers!
V

Yea I thought so too, it didn't even start out as a weight saving exercise, everything I did except for the battery was for aesthetics, 2.5 of those kg's are freebies too, by removing the rear footpegs, mirrors and end bar weights.
The battery cost $300 NZ dollars, and is listed on their website for $170 US dollars, I don't know and can't find the specs on the Exide battery so I don't know if they match up exactly, but the voltage is the same, and if you go to the Shorai website they recommend a 210cca battery for the duke390, and the Earthx has 220cca.

Also there's a thread where someone put an Earthx ETX12A (which is the same battery except smaller) in his BMW S1000RR, he's had it in installed for about a year and has had no problems with it what so ever, he even said "it sat for 2months and I cranked it in 25deg weather and it fired right up!" so about -4deg C.
So I thought if it can start a 1000cc four no problem then it should be fine for a 373cc single.
Here's the thread.

EarthX 1.3lb Lithium Battery Install & Review - Page 4 - BMW S1000RR Forums: BMW Sportbike Forum
 
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guzz46

New Member
So after going out for my second ride after maxing out the preload I decided to go back to position 7, the shock isn't compliant enough when maxed out, the rear end was skittish and slide a few times on the gas over ripply bumps.
I measured the difference between position 7 & 10, and on position 7 the back end was 6mm lower, so to compensate I raised the forks by 6mm, which happens to be right on the second ring (the same as the cup bike) and the back end felt much better, while still maintaining that same feeling from the front, I think I may have it all sorted now, hopefully I won't run into ground clearance issue with the belly pan, it didn't scrape on the ride today.

As a side note, the cup bikes belly pan looks narrower and more raised at the rear, so that would probably work better if the original belly pan causes ground clearance problems.
IMG_20150118_174745.jpg
 
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VAG944

New Member
Being we're so late to be invited to the party!! It is awesome of you to share your experiences and evaluations.......it'll be a great help for us come April or whenever.!!

Thank you so much.

Cheers! :)
 

JRRSKY

New Member
Can you think of a way to lock a helmet on this bike especially under the seat?? I plan to use the bike to commute:confused:
 
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guzz46

New Member
There doesn't appear to be a helmet lock anywhere, KTM does sell a helmet lock kit, but I imagine the easiest way would be to use a bicycle cable lock and put it through the trellis frame near the shock, then lock it to your helmet, then perhaps put a helmet bag around your helmet.
 

JRRSKY

New Member
There doesn't appear to be a helmet lock anywhere, KTM does sell a helmet lock kit, but I imagine the easiest way would be to use a bicycle cable lock and put it through the trellis frame near the shock, then lock it to your helmet, then perhaps put a helmet bag around your helmet.

The salesman told me we can simply put the buckle of our helmet to the rider underseat latch and once the seat is locked the helmet will be locked in place , he also mention about the storage compartment we can also clip the buckle there and then lock the seat. Seems worth a try, sadly I don't have a bike until March :(
 

guzz46

New Member
I don't know what latch he's talking about, maybe the center hole where the seat clips into? but I think if you put a helmet buckle there the seat wouldn't clip in place.IMG_20150122_122502.jpg
 

JRRSKY

New Member
Thanks for the pic! It seems unlikely too, guess I'll find out when I have my bike. I was told just now it's the storage compartment, so pretty much just hanging off with the seat locked in place while the buckle is inside, lame idea anyway wish ktm had its own lock like the ninja 250s
 

guzz46

New Member
Yea, I think locking your helmet to the frame is the better option, or taking it with you, which can be a pain, the seat fits pretty snug to the frame, I wouldn't really want a helmet strap in between.

A nice addition, some powerparts tank & knee pads.
IMG_20150122_143748.jpg
 

Treachery

Moderator
Country flag
Can you think of a way to lock a helmet on this bike especially under the seat?? I plan to use the bike to commute:confused:

PM me once you get the bike. A buddy has put one on at least three bikes over the last few years; I'll find out what he got and where from. It looks just like some of the OE locks; mounts to one of the rear subframe tubes with tamper-resistant fasteners. On some bikes, you can actually key the cylinder to match the ignition; won't know about that until we see the KTM key.
 

VAG944

New Member
All I can add or ask is, do people leave their helmets on their bikes..........I've never lived in a place where the bastards wouldn't fuck with your bike, let alone not cut the helmet from a lock! Which never made sense, why destroy the helmet to take it, making it useless..........>:{
 

Treachery

Moderator
Country flag
Yeah, I never leave my helmet on the bike unless I'm within sight of it, and it won't be there for long. The only exception is at a rally or such and there are bikes all over the place.
 

B7ACKTHORN

Member
Country flag
All I can add or ask is, do people leave their helmets on their bikes..........I've never lived in a place where the bastards wouldn't fuck with your bike, let alone not cut the helmet from a lock! Which never made sense, why destroy the helmet to take it, making it useless..........>:{

100% no. Echo Treachary here. Unless one stops for small pit stop to pee, or for a puff or something like that, in and around 6 to 10 ft within the bike, I don't find any reason to not do so. But if in case you're parking in a place where there's lots of foot steps, and the bike is off-sight for more than 5 mins, it's definitely say a BIG no, but that's just my two cents. :)

Cheers!
V
 
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