Seth
Member
What a timeless and helpful thread. May it always be alive. If that rubber mat is for noise control it is getting gutted asap!
I did my 600-mile service today. The rubber bib is lacerated and in the trash can. I am now certain that it is for noise control because of the way it reached to places that wouldn't need any heat shielding or splash protection.
For anyone who thinks they can skip the initial valve check (hey, how bad can it be in 600 miles?), I found all four valves were too tight, and all by the same amount - 0.02mm.
I also removed the headlight and installed a KTM racing bubble shield, removed all keyed devices, and installed the Woodcraft ignition bypass.
For anyone who thinks they can skip the initial valve check (hey, how bad can it be in 600 miles?), I found all four valves were too tight, and all by the same amount - 0.02mm.
I also removed the headlight and installed a KTM racing bubble shield, removed all keyed devices, and installed the Woodcraft ignition bypass.
slashfive
Member
Quick question on adjustment.
2015 with 6k. Unknown history.
Is TDC the T or line?
Any suggestions on shim sizes needed based on these measurements ?
Are these within the norms of tightening or should I be checking anything else? I have only run the bike around the block before it came apart.
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2015 with 6k. Unknown history.
Is TDC the T or line?
Any suggestions on shim sizes needed based on these measurements ?
Are these within the norms of tightening or should I be checking anything else? I have only run the bike around the block before it came apart.
Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Firstly, your measurements are useless if the engine wasn't stone cold.
Secondly, you're missing one clearance measurement.
Thirdly, you must remove and measure the existing shims to know what size any new shims must be.
I think it would be worth your while to read up on the topic some more before proceeding.
Secondly, you're missing one clearance measurement.
Thirdly, you must remove and measure the existing shims to know what size any new shims must be.
I think it would be worth your while to read up on the topic some more before proceeding.
Oh, and it's also unclear what your units of measure are. The specifications are in mm, but your figures look like they might be inches. Or maybe you just added a zero for some reason?
As for "TDC" the valves are in position to check when the hash marks on both camshaft sprockets are horizontal and in line with the gasket surface of the head.
slashfive
Member
I realized after posting i didn’t measure the existing shims. Will get that tomorrow and figure out the math. Seems straightforward was just concerned about the amount of tightening.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, based on the information at hand, I don't see reason to be 'concerned about the amount of tightening.' The three measurements are greater than zero.
KodakMoment
Member
Just chiming in here.
All of my valves were out of spec at 780 miles.
All of my valves were out of spec at 780 miles.
acruhl
Member
Oh boy. I think mine has about 700 miles and a few track days. I already did the oil. Not looking forward to adjusting the valves. Lots of good info in this thread including the shim kit. I would have hoped that by the 2020 model they could set the initial clearances right so it would last a while but we'll see. Suck. I really don't enjoy working on bikes these days. Can't be any worse than my 996.
I think that they probably do set the valves pretty well at the factory. During break-in, the valves settle in their seats, thus decreasing the clearance and necessitating thinner shims. After this initial settling, the clearances change at a slower rate.
acruhl
Member
I would argue not in this day of 15,000 mile valve adjust intervals on some other bikes. Then again, quality of materials is a factor and this engine probably isn't up to the same standard.
acruhl
Member
Ok. I have about 800 miles on my bike, maybe 300-350 on the track. TIme to check the valves for the first time.
It is worse than my 996, 998, air cooled Multistrada and any other Ducati I've worked on. That said, I haven't worked on the newest ones.
I haven't read this entire thread but I got some good tips from it. I didn't remove the battery box. I did have to remove the top radiator hose on the rider's left side to get the valve cover out. The radiator needs to move that much.
That rubber bib was cut multiple times and removed. It Sucks.
My forks are off which makes it easier to deal with. I'd recommend taking the front wheel off at least.
3 out of 4 valves were on the lower limit of spec (tight end of spec). Both intakes and one exhaust. The other exhaust was in the middle of spec. The rider's right intake valve is pretty hard to check especially given the thin feeler gauge required. They don't make it easy.
I'm putting it back together and I will ride it a few more times and check it again. It looks like a major pita to adjust clearances. I might have the dealer do it even though I bought a shim kit.
I put in an NGK iridium spark plug and I have a K&N air filter to put in it. I will finish putting it back together later tonight or tomorrow hopefully.
Still waiting on suspension upgrades. They are in the mail.
It is worse than my 996, 998, air cooled Multistrada and any other Ducati I've worked on. That said, I haven't worked on the newest ones.
I haven't read this entire thread but I got some good tips from it. I didn't remove the battery box. I did have to remove the top radiator hose on the rider's left side to get the valve cover out. The radiator needs to move that much.
That rubber bib was cut multiple times and removed. It Sucks.
My forks are off which makes it easier to deal with. I'd recommend taking the front wheel off at least.
3 out of 4 valves were on the lower limit of spec (tight end of spec). Both intakes and one exhaust. The other exhaust was in the middle of spec. The rider's right intake valve is pretty hard to check especially given the thin feeler gauge required. They don't make it easy.
I'm putting it back together and I will ride it a few more times and check it again. It looks like a major pita to adjust clearances. I might have the dealer do it even though I bought a shim kit.
I put in an NGK iridium spark plug and I have a K&N air filter to put in it. I will finish putting it back together later tonight or tomorrow hopefully.
Still waiting on suspension upgrades. They are in the mail.
Why go to all the trouble of assembling/disassembling again? Why not just shim the valves now? The hardest part of the job is the part you've already done - and will do to put it back together. The actual shimming just takes time, attention to detail, a small torque wrench, and a magnet on a stick.
I slightly prefer removing the engine for this job, because it does make the shimming procedure much easier, but people without a lift table and the special engine holding bracket will be better off doing it your way (moving the radiator).
acruhl
Member
I haven't put it all back together again. I'm stewing on it. If I make all the tolerances on the loose end I can ride without worries for thousands of more miles... Still waiting for my forks to come back so I'm not missing any riding time.
Nothing wrong with stewing a bit; it often makes for a more 'savory' outcome.
Certainly I always hope to be able to achieve the loose end, but shim sizes aren't usually granular enough to do more than just hit somewhere within the specified range.
Certainly I always hope to be able to achieve the loose end, but shim sizes aren't usually granular enough to do more than just hit somewhere within the specified range.
acruhl
Member
So it's worse than that, the intake range is .08-.12 mm. The exhaust is .13-.17mm. That's .04mm. The shim increments are .05. What a crock. Anyways I did the clearances.
I would have had the intake cam off by 1 tooth if I didn't mark the cam against the "bearing bridge" with a sharpie before I took it apart. I find that's a good way to get stuff aligned again.
All tolerances are at the loose side of adjustment or beyond now, that's the best I could do with .05mm shims.
The shim kit someone mentioned from Amazon in this thread worked fine. They appear to be normal KTM 10mm shims used on many bikes.
I would have had the intake cam off by 1 tooth if I didn't mark the cam against the "bearing bridge" with a sharpie before I took it apart. I find that's a good way to get stuff aligned again.
All tolerances are at the loose side of adjustment or beyond now, that's the best I could do with .05mm shims.
The shim kit someone mentioned from Amazon in this thread worked fine. They appear to be normal KTM 10mm shims used on many bikes.
The ranges are inclusive of the endpoints, so they are in fact .05mm ranges.
Good question, but, No. Shims really don't wear to any appreciable degree. However, valve faces and valve seats do wear and get pounded down over time, which causes the clearances to get tighter. Going to the loose end reduces the chances that the clearances will drop dangerously low before the next checkup.
Similar threads
