ryandalling
New Member
Gone.... 
So i started installing the PP rear sets...well what kind of bike was designed here? 1st off there are 3 mounts to hold the sets on. 1 bolt un bolts and comes out. The 2nd bolt goes completely thru to the other side of the bike and thru the other set and has a nut . The larger bolt is actually the pivot point of the swing arm, soo you have brace under the motor when you pull it out. It goes from the left set thru swing arm and has a nut on the right set. You can imagine the WTF face i had. I mean its in the directions but what a horrible set up.. Guess i would think 3 bolts for each set would be just fine.
lastly you must use the original threaded spacer from the stockers to the new sets piece o cake since the threaded spacer came out by my finger. But the PP sets are powder coated down in the threads so my spacer wouldnt go in. So i put them in the freezer and took a couple of taps with a 1.00 pitch and by hand scraped the powder coat off or what I could get. One spacer went in for a small fight. The other well i just hope i dont have to tighten anymore. Oh and Mine would only allow the spacer to thread in from the back for whatever reason they wouldnt start from the front. Almost forgot that threaded spacer is castle-lated.
Anyone else have this issue or just lucky me?
lastly you must use the original threaded spacer from the stockers to the new sets piece o cake since the threaded spacer came out by my finger. But the PP sets are powder coated down in the threads so my spacer wouldnt go in. So i put them in the freezer and took a couple of taps with a 1.00 pitch and by hand scraped the powder coat off or what I could get. One spacer went in for a small fight. The other well i just hope i dont have to tighten anymore. Oh and Mine would only allow the spacer to thread in from the back for whatever reason they wouldnt start from the front. Almost forgot that threaded spacer is castle-lated.
Anyone else have this issue or just lucky me?
micahpearlman
New Member
I just installed mine and they fought me every step of the way. Installing The threaded spacers really sucked. Trying to get the swingarm bolt back really really sucked -- fell off the stand and trying to get everything thing to line back up took forever. If I was todo it again I would have removed the rear wheel and shock. So what I assumed would be a 30 minute job took several hours.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
fs1ephil
New Member
Did either of you take any pictures, would be real handy to see the issues. Glad you both got them fitted in the end.
mr-fabricator
New Member
swing arm axle bolt is a chew !!
In the end I decided I needed to do something about it as I wouldn't want to need to do a repair trackside and be faced with a 3 hour job to replace 5 mins of rearset ,
so I cut the hex head off completely , drilled and tapped a M8 hole ( caution.......... the axle material is high sensile steel ) and installed a 8.8 ( or might have been a 10.2 ) high tensile bolt . theirs enough material to use a M10 if u prefer ..
No I can leave the axle in position and take the nut off one side to take the rearset off , or the bolt out to remove the other side , . simples .
The long smaller bolt at the bottom that goes through both rearsets isn't an issue , it was just the removal of the main axle I was concerned about and collapsing the rearend !! Shortly I will make a complete new axle with a nut for both sides then it will be a proper job.
Hope this helps someone .
regards lee
In the end I decided I needed to do something about it as I wouldn't want to need to do a repair trackside and be faced with a 3 hour job to replace 5 mins of rearset ,
so I cut the hex head off completely , drilled and tapped a M8 hole ( caution.......... the axle material is high sensile steel ) and installed a 8.8 ( or might have been a 10.2 ) high tensile bolt . theirs enough material to use a M10 if u prefer ..
No I can leave the axle in position and take the nut off one side to take the rearset off , or the bolt out to remove the other side , . simples .
The long smaller bolt at the bottom that goes through both rearsets isn't an issue , it was just the removal of the main axle I was concerned about and collapsing the rearend !! Shortly I will make a complete new axle with a nut for both sides then it will be a proper job.
Hope this helps someone .
regards lee
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ryandalling
New Member
Did anybody get instructions with theirs? Lots of funky weird shaped parts in the box. Not sure if I want to tackle it right away. Haha
micahpearlman
New Member
Instructions came with mine. PM me and I'll scan and send them to you.
Well im still having issues with mine! One rearset the threaded spacer goes right in and is very adjustable. The other doesnt and ive got it in only so far but cant get it any further or even out. Im going to work on it more this week but its a joke! And now since i cant get that threaded spacer adjusted my left rear set sits down at an angle not level and i had to remove the heal guard to be able to keep my boot on the peg. I will attach pics when i unload it tomorrow night from the trailer. As stated before the plastic heel guard is flimsy once your boot is on the peg. This may be a good thing to give some flex time will tell.
ryandalling
New Member
So is that a 20mm - 1.0 tap that I'd need ?? Trying to have everything ready before I start.
ryandalling
New Member
I re-tapped the rearset bracket at 22mm-1.0 and the threaded spacers finger tightened in. Just the same as they came off. It's not worth trying to wrench it on hard. Re-tap and boom. Simple.
ryandalling
New Member
Local tool shop had them in stock.
ryandalling
New Member
Other tip... if you are doing any rearset change.... hammer a 1/2" rod through the swingarm to drive the swing arm bolt out.... and leave the rod in the swingarm while you work. Trust me, you need to keep something in there or you will have a lot of issues.
Like your idea few questions, how are you torquing down both the nut and bolt now? What's stopping the axle from spinning once you break either the nut or the bolt free? Usually one is not going to come come off without some why of holding it, especially if it's torqued to spec.
My idea was to machine flats into the end of the shaft that gets drilled and tapped for the new bolt, that way you can take the nut off like normal then push the axle out a few inches and get a wrench on the flats and one on the new bolt to loosen it up.
TZMike
New Member
micahpearlman sent over his PDF scan of the PowerParts assembly instructions for these rearsets. I have posted them on my photo site here:
https://flic.kr/p/u4PU42
There are 5 pages in total. just use the right side arrow to scroll to the next page
HiH...
https://flic.kr/p/u4PU42
There are 5 pages in total. just use the right side arrow to scroll to the next page
HiH...
